Denim & Tweed: J. Press Fall 2014

Mon 18 Aug 2014 - Filed under: 1990-present,Clothes — Christian
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Recently J. Press sent out an email plugging its fall items, so if you haven’t visited the “new looks” page, take a look.

And while you’re there, tell me if things look a bit different compared to seasons past. The mannequin forms, shirt collars, tie choices — something feels like a piano slightly out of tune. (Continue)

Rising Sun: A Kamakura News Update

Thu 7 Aug 2014 - Filed under: 1990-present — Christian
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kama

We’re long overdue for an update on Kamakura Shirts. A couple months ago I had coffee with the NYC store manager and a a member of the founder’s family visiting from Japan, and they said the New York store is doing just great. In fact, they’re currently scouting for a second NY location, likely in the Financial District.

They were eager to point out that they’re not just about shirts. Their necktie range is expansive, and includes ties in fabrics from England and Italy as well as Japan. You can read about the fabrics and manufacturing here. They’ve also got a wide selection of pocket squares with plenty of trad appeal.

The brand was also recently featured in a Smithsonian Magazine article entitled “How Japan Copied American Culture And Made It Better,” from which the above photo of Kamakura founder Yoshio Sadassue is taken.

Finally, last December the brand held an Ivy party in Tokyo (multiple representatives from Ivy-Style.com, alas, were unable to attend). Head over here for party pix and see how it all went down. — CC

 

In The Clearing Stands A Boxer: National Underwear Day, 2014

Tue 5 Aug 2014 - Filed under: 1990-present — Christian
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mercerbox

Amid the hoopla of National Underwear Day (yes, there is such a thing), one boxer stands out among the crowd: that of Mercer & Sons.

You can get them in pima oxford cloth by special request, but David Mercer says pinpoint oxford is better, telling us, “As a longtime fan of two-ply pima oxford shirts and boxers, I have decided that pinpoint, which I feel is a poor cousin to oxford and broadcloth for shirts, actually makes a superior boxer. Less bulky and the cloth really gets smooth over time.”

And with undergarments this fine, who’d want to take them off? — CC

 

 

Going Native In 2014

Fri 1 Aug 2014 - Filed under: 1990-present,Clothes — Christian
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batik1

In a previous article, I mentioned that native prints are not common among Ivy retailers today. This possibly overreaching assessment prompted me to make a more thoughly investigation of current offerings.

I approached O’Connell’s, the purveyor of all things traditional and known for its expansive collection of old stock. I struck out in finding any vintage heyday batik, but manager Ethan Huber shared with me the news that he was successful selling native prints last year and is offering again this year. The supplier of O’Connell’s native fabric items is Bills Khakis.

Readers who have followed the brand over the years have watche it go from one product to many. I asked founder Bill Thomas about native prints, and he said he’s offering the Parker model short in a kalamkari fabric. Kalamkari is an Indian fabric similar to batik. “The patterns were discovered in the archives of an old mill,” says Thomas. “It went back 50 years and took two days to look at all the samples of madras and kalamkari.” The fabric was introduced on a whim and is one of the more playful items in the collection. Thomas admits that Kalamkari is “off the register” both in wildness and in production. The hand-screening technique used creates imperfections in the print design. The shorts offered by Bill’s are in a 4.5-ounce cotton and 9.75 inseam. The Bills website offer two colors of Kalamkari shorts, golden sand and beach grass. Thomas suggests pairing them with solid polos, washed oxfords and chambray.

newbat

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Fall Forward: New Items From Brooks Brothers Red Fleece

Tue 15 Jul 2014 - Filed under: 1990-present,Clothes — Christian
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When we change the clocks twice a year, we remember the direction with the mnemonic device “spring forward, fall back.” But these days retailers bring out next season’s clothes earlier and earlier, and as soon as July 4th was over there were already signs of fall.

Yesterday Brooks Brothers sent out an email blast plugging its new fall items, so I went to the company’s website to check them out.

As always there’s an endless number of bland products. Most of the creativity, for better or worse, is in the Red Fleece collection, such as the robot tie above, which I kind of like, except that whenever I have a whimsical tie hanging in my closet I never feel like actually putting it on. (Continue)

 
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