Clothes

Epitome Of Elegance: Boyer On The Gray Flannel Suit

I’ve  seen every masculine change in fashion from the “drape shape with the reet pleat” zoot suit of the WW II years  to the latest “New Bohemian” look from Dries Van Noten, and the way I dress is still imprisoned by the years of my youth. But my appreciation of style is not, so I


To Seam Is To Be

When the forecast reaches 60 degrees in Boston, you may be blinded by the sunlight reflecting off of my fellow citygoers’ legs, which haven’t seen the light of day in months. I too am guilty of chomping at the bit to wear anything other than cords and wool stockings by the end of March, and


Don’t Look Now

The month of May means madras season for some parts of the country at least. And if you’re somewhere that’s still chilly, consider flying first-class — at least in your imagination — to a land of eternal sunshine in these premium shorts from Country Club Prep, which are priced at a cool $120, or enough


Tony Curtis And The French Buttondown

We’ve been on the topic of buttondowns lately, and even rarer in Tradsville than the piqué is this iteration. Pictured is Tony Curtis in a custom shirt (note monogram) consisting of buttondown collar and French cuffs. We can only assume the stubble was for an acting role. It’s an unusual combination, but more of an odd


Oxford Alternative: The Long-Sleeve Buttondown Knit Shirt

Are you such a clotheshorse that you’ll remember an outfit you saw on a mannequin a year ago? Well I remember browsing the Ralph Lauren Rhinelander mansion last spring and spotting an ensemble that made me stop and scrutinize. It was a gold-buttoned navy blazer paired with a white buttondown, no tie. But upon closer inspection,


The Buttondown Shirt, Not Lost In Translation

Some things get lost in translation — academic jaron, for example — but not the buttondown shirt.  Settle in for a lengthy read courtesy of Nathaniel Weiner, Ph.D. candidate at York University and his paper “Transatlantic Translations of the Button-down Shirt,” which appears in the journal TranscUlturAl.  Here’s the article’s opening, as well as relevant


Red Bluff: It’s Put Up Or Shut Up With Nantucket Reds

We bring our Nantucket Reds weekend to a close with an important message from  The Onion, who tells us there’s no bluffing when it comes to go-to-hell pants: You’ve either got the stones inside or you don’t. There’s no dipping your toe in the pool, no test drive. You’re either a pirate-pant wearing swashbuckler or just



Red Squeeze: J. Press Unveils Murray’s Toggery Collaboration

Today J. Press (nickname “Squeeze” back in the heyday), unveiled a collaboration with Murray’s Toggery, maker of the iconic Nantucket Reds. “We produced a small group of products that are perfect for Spring/Summer on their own or combined with many of the other warm-weather favorites we both offer,” J. Press executive Robert Squillaro tells Ivy


Getting It Wrong: Pre-Handbook Preppy In Japan

According to the February issue of Free & Easy, Japan evidently never saw the 1979 “Are You a Preppie?” poster. It’s always interesting to hear foreigners’ take on American culture. It’s equally interesting to hear tales about guys in other countries trying to copy American style before the Information Age. The Heavy Tweed Jacket blog


Chinos From The Halcyon Days

Buying authentic Ivy can be a minefield. You have to be on point for all the staples: Burlington socks, Brooks Brothers shirts, Levi’s Vintage 501s, and of course Bass Weejuns, Of course the Internet has made things much easier, especially for those who don’t live in the USA. In the UK, the go-to shop for


R. Hanauer’s Eyeglass Case + Pocket Square

  We’ll wrap up our trio of pocket square-themed posts with an update on this little piece of menswear esoterica from five years ago. While covering the trade shows in New York and meeting up with longtime Ivy Style sponsor R. Hanauer, I spied these clever eyeglass cases that perform the function of a pocket


The Black Knit Tie, The Great Neutralizer

Geoffrey Wolff’s novel “The Final Club” has frequently been quoted here for its insightful sartorial observations, including on the importance of understatement in the Ivy wardrobe (contextual understatement, that is, with go-to-hell clothes being another matter entirely). The reason the sack cut became the default jacket style for the Ivy League Look was because it was


Doubling Down: The Ivy League Double-Breasted Blazer

Prompted by a post on Roger Sterling’s “acid drenched swinger” look, contributor James Kraus sent us the above scan from a 1966 Sears Christmas catalog showing a couple in matching ensembles of double-breasted blazers and ascots. The natural shoulder, double-breasted sack is a bit of an anomaly in Ivy, and one which fell out of


Make Mine A Double: Chens On DB For The Rake

As a follow-up to our tribute to the late Prince Philip and his signature double-breasted blazer, here’s a lengthy feature I did for The Rake back in 2014. It should appeal to all those with a general interest in menswear, as well as all of you now contemplating a DB blazer.  Pictured above is Fred


Don’t Knock The Rock

Years ago the Los Angeles Times asked me to write a story about a new men’s fashion trend that combined English gentleman tailoring with rock and roll style. Though it’s outside the boundaries of Tradsville, I thought it may serve as inspiration for freeing up latent energies, thereby having a therapeutic effect amid the social


It Happens Every Spring

Spring is here, and, while not quite ready to call for my whangee and yellowest shoes like Bertie Wooster, I am getting ready to pack up the woolen tweeds and flannels until fall. Sometime in the next few weeks I will get the summer stuff out of storage at the dry cleaners, and I have been


The Red Sweater In ’80s Brooks Brothers Catalogs

It can’t be all doom and gloom regarding Brooks Brothers. So before we get back to bittersweet nostalgia, let’s pay tribute to the company’s great stylistic achievements, such as this post on the red sweater, a rare piece in the trad wardrobe.     


In Praise of the Small Wardrobe

Perhaps because I scribe for a living, and know that a piece of writing always benefits from cutting,* I’ve always been a ruthless editor of my own wardrobe. There’s always something that can be discarded for being redundant, having fulfilled its use, or not being quite right. The simple test is to look at an