Brooks Brothers Fall 2011 Preview

Just got back from the 346 and the presentation of next fall’s collection was impressive, at least from a staging and creativity standpoint. Unfortunately I have little news for orthodox trads: no idea if shoulders have been changed in any way or how many sack suits will be offered. I don’t think my hosts even


Spring ’11 J. Press Includes Yale, Cremieux Collabs

Sartorially speaking, it’s a great time to be an Eli. First Gant returns to New Haven and resuscitates the Yale Co-Op label, and now J. Press is collaborating with Old Blue. What’s more, in a move completely out of left field (wait, which way is France?), Press has also unveiled a collaboration with French designer


Going Places: The Norman Hilton Lookbook

A few months ago we annouced the return of the Norman Hilton brand with a great new tweed sportcoat with natural shoulders, soft construction and a three-inch lapel. Now you get to see the jacket in action. I teamed up with Fred Castleberry of Unabashedly Prep and the guys at Prepidemic to create a Norman


Ivy Trendwatch: WSJ on the Ivy League Look

The Wall Street Journal offers a summary of the zeitgeist so far. Prediction: The topic will continue to generate buzz this year, but the buzz will end in 2012. Of course, everything is supposed to end in 2012. — CC


Ivy Trendwatch: Ralph Lauren’s Ivy Row, Rugby Goes Collegiate

This fall/winter season Ivy and related references have multiplied at both Ralph Lauren and Rugby as vintage university style continues to be rediscovered by the fashion industry. Likewise, Ralph Lauren’s Fall 2010 in-store magazine features the image above, which has a vaguely “Take Ivy” vibe, combined with the car from “La Dolce Vita” and stately


Introducing Newton Street Vintage

Erstwhile Ivy Style contributing writer and vintage Ivy collector Zachary DeLuca recently opened an Etsy shop under the name Newton Street Vintage. It’s amusing to think of DeLuca and Giuseppe of An Affordable Wardrobe, who also began selling online recently. Both live in Cambridge and thrift from the same wellsprings. It’s not hard to picture


From Quality To PR: Muffy’s Rise and Fall of Trad Clothiers

Muffy Aldrich of The Daily Prep has just put up a perspicacious analysis of 25 companies on her preppy radar. Included are many of Tradsville’s favorite clothiers: Brooks Brothers, J. Press, Ralph Lauren, Mercer & Sons, LL Bean, Alden and Bills Khakis. Aldrich plots them on a line with small handcrafted startups like Kiel James



Haspel: Not Just For Seersucker Anymore

Since 1909, Haspel has made its name as the leading purveyor of seersucker. But the company is currently expanding its offerings, some of which were on display at a recent trip to its New York showroom. What most caught my eye were a dozen natty tweed sportcoats that Haspel will be releasing in fall of


Yale Homecoming: Gant on Returning to New Haven

Last month Gant returned to its New Haven birthplace with the new Campus Store at 268 York Street, right next to J. Press and a stone’s throw from Yale University. Gant’s return to New Haven drew much press attention for good reason: The brand, which is now owned by a European company and boasts stores


Real Deal: Ralph Lauren’s Dartmouth Sportcoat

Gradually I’ve come to the decision that the two most important characteristics in a sportcoat are natural shoulders and the right lapel width. Everything else — two or three buttons, darted or undarted, patch pockets or not — is negotiable. Things like lapped seams and hook vents are cool Ivy details, but are far outweighed


Ivy Trendwatch: GQ at Princeton

GQ has dispatched photographer Gordon von Steiner to capture contemporary Princeton style (for an appreciation of vintage Tiger style, see our post “The Princetonians“). Unabashedly Prep‘s Fred Castleberry is one of the subjects. I recently recruited Fred to shoot for The Rake team and he’ll be heading up to Cambridge soon to take photos for


Old School: Road Trip to Cambridge

The site will be quiet this week while I take my first road trip since moving to New York. I’m renting a car — let’s hope I remember how to operate it — and driving up to Cambridge on assignment for The Rake to profile The Andover Shop and its legendary founder, Charlie Davidson. In


Life of the Party: Orvis Patch Tartan Sportcoat

It’s never too early to plan your office Christmas party outfit. Suggestion: This patchwork tartan sportcoat by Orvis, which is presumably the same DS Dundee jacket we saw at the ENK menswear show back in January. Guaranteed to make you and everyone around you drink too much eggnog. — CC


Fall News Roundup

Here are some news tidbits as well as things that have caught my eye recently. I recently visited the remodeled Ralph Lauren Rhinelander mansion and no surprise the elegance and style are absolutely suffocating (above photo by Michael Williams; check out the rest of his shots here). What a tactile experience: I don’t think there’s


Ivy Trendwatch: Northern Exposure

If you’ve ever wondered where my patronym comes from, the answer is Norway. My paternal grandfather came over in the ’30s and settled in San Francisco, where he married my grandmother, who had about the plainest English name imaginable: Betty Jane Smith. We’re one of only two Chensvold families in the US (the other is



Ivy Trendwatch: The Return of Norman Hilton

During the heyday of the Ivy League Look, Norman Hilton was a leading natural-shoulder brand sold at many campus shops and regional clothiers. Hilton was also Ralph Lauren’s first major investor, and made many of Lauren’s suits and sportcoats in the ’70s. His son Nick Hilton has continued the family tradition, running a clothing shop


Ask And Ye Shall Receive: Trad in a Toaster

I love the message-in-a-bottle quality of the net. Send a note out and see what comes back. So on day three or so of tweeting — which is actually pretty fun — I hear about this new site Fuck Yeah Menswear, which runs “on point” stream-of-consciousness parodies of fashionable pretension. So on Friday I tweeted