“Playboy’s Penthouse” was Hugh Hefner’s variety show from the early days of his budding Playboy empire. Episodes were taped in a party atmosphere that brought together a cross section of fashionable society (the kind of crowd seen in our post “A Swellegant, Elegant Party“), and adult music (jazz, vocalists) that’s a far cry from the musical …
The sun is setting on the Golden Fleece, as least as far as domestic manufacturing goes. Recently Brooks Brothers announced it will close its Garland, NC shirt factory. Now an anonymous source has revealed that the company will close its other two American factories, the Southwick tailored clothing factory in Haverhill, MA, and the New …
Over the past couple of years I’ve shared my outside self-improvement articles here under the category Level Up. I’ve just published a new one pegged on the coronavirus. It’s for the Nob Hill Gazette, the San Francisco luxury and society magazine. I hope it helps you all navigate the constantly shiftings sands of this situation, …
The infamous green OCBD donned by Miles Davis with a puzzled expression on the front of the “Milestones” album has eluded clotheshorses for decades. The photo referenced is often of course the album cover. When looking at the photos from the photo shoot, however, we are provided with much greater picture quality. The shirt in these …
Brooks Brothers is shutting down its Garland, NC shirt factory, where its iconic oxford-cloth buttondowns are presently made. Local media reports: Brooks Brothers is shutting down its shirt factory in Garland, a move that will eliminate nearly 150 jobs in the small Sampson County town where the clothing maker is the largest employer. Brooks Brothers …
In 2009, The Rake asked me to write a little tribute to Miles Davis, who got hip to the Ivy League Look in 1954, right when the look was taking off across America. I just found out that the magazine has reprinted the story this month. I’m not sure whether it’s in the print issue, …
Today is World Cocktail Day which, according to Wikipedia, is “a global celebration of cocktails … [marking] the publication date of the first definition of a cocktail on May 13 in 1806.” The word “cocktail,” to my mind at least, conjures up images of city lights, Nick and Nora Charles, and cosmopolitan urbanity, the preface to a …
A quick look back at a clever GTH pant from almost a decade ago, which should get you looking forward to summer. Oh, and these need to be brought back into production. * * * The Gant show yesterday was my lone fashion week event. Twenty minutes every six months is just about right for …
Kenton Nelson grew up during the 1950s and ’60s. He started his career as an illustrator and graphic designer before launching a painting career at age 40. He works a ten-hour day, every day, in his studio in Pasadena, California. Nelson describes his style as “narrative idealism.” Nelson’s influences include the work of the WPA artists of …
For Yale men, Barrie Ltd. was shoe headquarters since the Isaacs brothers opened their narrow slot of a store attached to J. Press in 1934. Bob and Barry Isaacs always had their shoes made specially for them and sold under their Barrie Ltd. private label, which afforded them very competitive pricing for students and faculty. …
I received an email this morning from a WASPy old relic who’s gotten quite hirsute under quarantine and frankly doesn’t give a damn. He calls it going “Saxon.” You see it in the movies. Danger strikes. Characters get imprisoned, marooned, forced to migrate, drawn into epic battles. No time, inclination nor ability to groom oneself …
May is here and with it the season of white bucks, the Ivy wardrobe item that lent its name to the term “white shoe,” usually applied to a law or financial firm that hired WASPy guys from elite universities and catered to an Old Money clientele. In 1997, language expert William Safire wrote an essay …
Over a year ago Gregg Donnelly, founder of Jack Donnelly, known in the Ivy Style community for its American-made trousers, was hospitalized for three months after suffering a severe allergic reaction to a prescribed prescription medication. After leaving the hospital, it took Donnelly another twelve months to fully recover. Faced with financial trouble from hospital …
While mostly stuck at home, let us remember more active times with this tribute to “manly trad” courtesy of Japanese clothier Kent and a little inspiration from Steve McQueen. Always remember that trad is man’s clothes, and that nothing compliments a three-piece sack suit, buttondown oxford and rep tie like a Ferrari Berlinetta Lusso. Running with the …
Yesterday Bloomberg reported the following: Brooks Brothers Inc., the two-century-old menswear company that set the standard for aspiring Wall Street bankers, is seeking to sell itself. The retailer has extended a sale process begun last year, according to people familiar with the matter who asked not to be identified because it wasn’t public. Depending on …
In my storybook “These Are Our Failures,” which was released in January, one of my characters argues that a change in mindset is necessary for the clothes-wearing men of today. We are fast becoming “retro-eccentrics,” relics and remnants of past standards, or, one could say, ghosts. The situation of the coronavirus will surely reveal much …
In his previous columns, Richard Press has shared his memories of the Ivy heyday and his decades at J. Press. This time he shares something he wrote in 1955 while a freshman at Dartmouth. It has the triple importance of being authored at an Ivy League college by a family member of one of the …
On Sunday the New York Post reported that Peter Elliot, an Upper East Side menswear shop (referred to erroneously as a “tailor,” and then repeated by other media), has reopened despite orders from the governor. During my years in the city I enjoyed very much browsing the shop, which has trad appeal especially in the accessories …
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