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Doubling Down: The Ivy League Double-Breasted Blazer

Thu 27 Mar 2014 - Filed under: Clothes — Zachary DeLuca
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Prompted by our post on Roger Sterling’s “acid drenched swinger” look, contributor James Kraus sent us the above scan from a 1966 Sears Christmas catalog showing a couple in matching ensembles of double-breasted blazers and ascots.

The natural shoulder, double-breasted sack is a bit of an anomaly in Ivy, and one which fell out of vogue relatively quickly when compared to the more enduring tailoring styles that the look has to offer. Nevertheless I think it’s an interesting jacket. With its straight hanging lines, soft shoulders, and just the faintest hint of a peaked lapel, the Ivy appropriation of the double-breasted gives the jacket an easy, sweater-like fit. Note that the couple above is also wearing button-down shirts with their double-breasted blazers. (Continue)

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Tea Time: Bills Khakis’ Younger, Trimmer Tea Label

Tue 25 Mar 2014 - Filed under: 1990-present,Clothes — Zachary DeLuca
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Bills Khakis, an American brand that made its name with sturdy chinos based upon military khakis from the 1940s, has released a new line inspired by the early origins of khaki cloth itself.

The new line, Tea Label, is geared toward a younger customer seeking a trimmer fit. The Tea Label trousers have a lower rise and trimmer leg than the company’s mainline offerings, and fabrics are distressed, garment dyed, and faded, in pastel shades as well as classic khaki hues. The name itself is a reference to British soldiers using tea-staining to camouflage their uniforms during the 1840s. (Continue)

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Bowed To Joy: Harvard Displays Architect Walter Gropius’ Bow Ties

Sat 22 Mar 2014 - Filed under: 1920s-'40s,Personae — Zachary DeLuca
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Curio: Gropius Bow Ties

A collection of six bow ties belonging to pioneering modernist architect Walter Gropius (1883-1969) are currently on display at the Harvard Graduate School of Design’s Frances Loeb Library.

Gropius, along with fellow modernist Le Corbusier, helped cement the bow tie as an emblem of nonconformist thinking, creativity, and architectural genius. The bow ties in the collection provide a glimpse into Gropius’ personal taste, his connection to Harvard, and his thoughts about the small accessory that makes a big statement. (Continue)

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End The Madness: Esquire Calls Don Draper An Undertaker

Thu 20 Mar 2014 - Filed under: Film — Zachary DeLuca
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Mad-Men-Season-7-Roger-Sterling-2014-xl

Since it first aired in 2007, “Mad Men” has been the point of origin of a nostalgic zeitgeist for all things mid-century. From hotels to haircuts, from two-inch ties to tiki bars, an infatuation with the so-called “Mad Men Era” has permeated fashion and design.

Now the trend may finally be reaching its inevitable end, at least according to Esquire Magazine. (Continue)

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Committed To The Look: Jay Walter Opens New Custom Shop

Tue 18 Mar 2014 - Filed under: Personae — Zachary DeLuca
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Jay Walter

J. Press may have closed its New York location, but the inimitable Jay Walter, who ran the company’s made-to-measure tailoring program on Madison Avenue, remains committed to serving those devoted to traditional style.

His new shop, located in Manhattan at 800 Second Avenue, will continue furnishing customers with the same handmade custom tailoring for which he was renowned at J. Press. (Continue)

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Southern Discomfort: Haspel’s Awkward Entrance To The Prep Party

Sun 16 Mar 2014 - Filed under: Clothes,Ivy Trendwatch — Zachary DeLuca
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haspel 7

Back in the summer of 2013, news broke that Haspel, famed New Orleans purveyor of seersucker and poplin, would undergo a relaunch with designers Shipley and Halmos at the helm. Formerly a licensed brand, Haspel would once again produce its own line, and do so in the USA. Traditionalists with fond memories of Haspel’s crisp, warm-weather suiting will no doubt be dismayed by the result, but by now they should be well acquainted with disappointment. (Continue)

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