Manly Trad

Wed 17 Dec 2014 - Filed under: Personae — Christian
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normanm

This morning comment-leaver “SE” pointed out on our last post that Norman Mailer was a pretty trad dresser. Even more so than JFK, the subject of his 1960 Esquire article. Behold the embodiment of “manly trad.” — CC (Continue)

A Light Extinguished: Photographer Phil Stern, 1919-2014

Mon 15 Dec 2014 - Filed under: Personae — Christian
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Frank Sinatra and John F. Kennedy, Kennedy Inaugural, Washington, D.C, 1961

Renowned photographer Phil Stern, who documented World War II and stars of Hollywood and the jazz scene, has died at the age of 95.

Stern did much work for LIFE Magazine and many of his images are instantly recognizable, such as this iconic shot of James Dean.

The above photo, in keeping with our JFK administration theme (the last post, and one more to follow), was taken at the president’s inaugural ball. — CC

 

Where It’s Always 1963

Mon 15 Dec 2014 - Filed under: 1960s,Film — Christian
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Tonight the SyFy channel debuts a new series called “Ascension,” inspired by the JFK administration’s Project Orion. The premise is that in 1963 a group of men, women and children were launched into space as part of a secret government program. Now it’s 50 years later, and they’re suddenly questioning the truth behind their mission. Meanwhile, the changes that has taken place back on earth have completely eluded them.

It’s a fun idea to play with.

So let’s say you’d been gone since the Ivy heyday — in space, on a desert island, in a coma — and came crashing back to present reality:

Ascension/Descension
If you'd been away since 1963, you primary reaction to the changes in the world would be:

 

Kazuo Hozumi’s Illustrated Book Of Ivy

Sat 13 Dec 2014 - Filed under: Ivy Trendwatch — Christian
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 81JGiZOLXcL

Today in Japan sees the publication of a new collection of illustrations by artist Kazuo Hozumi, who created the smiling little caucasian characters used by clothing brand Van, and co-opted by myself for my Twitter avatars.

We’ve got the book on order and will share the findings when it arrives. — CC

 

From The Corners Of The Empire

Fri 12 Dec 2014 - Filed under: Clothes — Christian
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updated3

In our last post we announced the annexing of a new Manhattan restaurant into the Ralph Lauren empire. Here are a few more happenings from other corners of the RL world. (Continue)

 

Bartender, I’ll Have A Big Pony — And Make It A Double

Wed 10 Dec 2014 - Filed under: 1990-present — Christian
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polobar

Ralph Lauren recently launched a mobile coffee truck in Manhattan, and today the New York Times broke the news on his new restaurant, The Polo Bar.

Scheduled to open later this month, it’s located just around the corner from the new Polo flagship on 5th Avenue. Quotes the article:

Simon Doonan, an author and the creative ambassador at large for Barneys New York, said Mr. Lauren’s retro approach to gastronomy may speak to those who have grown weary of lectures about the provenance of each roll in a breadbasket. “I think a lot of food today is unnecessarily creative,” he said. “Every time you go out to eat, it’s like a Jacques Tati movie or a ‘Saturday Night Live’ sketch.” Mr. Lauren, in contrast, offers “a meal you might get if you walked into an episode of ‘Mad Men.’ ”

OK, “Mad Men” cuisine, but what about the dress code? The article concludes:

Mr. Lauren stressed that the Polo Bar would not be “a formal restaurant,” but what will he make of those customers who are sure to show up at the front door outfitted for a theme-park flume ride in Orlando instead of a fox hunt in the Scottish highlands? “We just had a conversation about it,” he said. “Would you turn them away if someone comes in in a T-shirt?”

He admitted that he’s no stranger to the maître d’ brushoff. “I’ve been one of those guys,” Mr. Lauren said. He recalled dropping by a fancy establishment, years back, when he had already become a force in global fashion. “I had shorts on, and they turned me away,” he said. He accepted that fate with equanimity.

As for the Polo Bar, sartorial regulations could wind up being flexible. Mr. Lauren broke into a subtle grin and said, “I guess if I don’t do any business, I’ll take anyone.”

Brooks Brothers is supposed to be planning a restaurant next to its own flagship, suggesting the comparisons between Polo and Brooks will extend to more than just cut and cloth. — CC

 

Let It Roll: O’Connell’s New O’CBD

Tue 9 Dec 2014 - Filed under: Clothes — Christian
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oc

Last week O’Connell’s unveiled a new unlined and unfused oxford-cloth buttondown, dubbed the O’C OCBD, or just O’CBD for short. “I’ve been working on this baby for about a year,” owner Ethan Huber tells Ivy Style. “Wanted to emulate some of my personal 30-year-old Brooks Brothers shirts.”

Huber developed the shirt, including fit and cut, with Gitman Borthers, which manufactures about half of O’Connell’s shirts to the shop’s specifications. The new shirt is another speciality cut with O’Connell’s characteristic fullness in the body. Collar points have been extended t0 3 3/8 inches, and the buttons have been placed “to provide an ideal spread.” All linings and fusings have been removed from collar, cuffs and placket.

Huber tried about six different fabrics from makers such as Acorn and Threadtex.  “I was looking for a darker shade of blue,” says Huber, “with more contrast between weft and warp.  I was also looking for a cloth that wasn’t super thick, but was robust enough to separate itself from a pinpoint. When I found the right fabric, I put a bunch of them through the process of wearing, tossing on the floor, washing, laundering, ironing, not ironing, etc.”

While currently available only in blue and priced at $145, pink and white are up next Huber says. — CHRISTIAN CHENSVOLD

 
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