“Navy blue. The new neutral, it is the automatic first choice for shoes, purses, suits, sweaters. It serves as the perfect foil for colors that do not exist in nature – shocking pink, poison green, brilliant yellow, Windex blue. Purple is not Preppy.”
– The Official Preppy Handbook (1980)
Sam Waterson wearing a navy blazer as Nick Carraway in The Great Gatsby (1974).
If there is one item that belongs in every gentleman’s wardrobe, it is the navy blazer. Hands down, this article of clothing is the single most versatile item in menswear. Much like its more formal cousin, the dinner jacket (or tuxedo), the lasting charm of the navy blazer comes from the fact that it is exceedingly flattering. Navy, like black, is an elegant color choice. Darker colors create an illusion of a slimmer silhouette, absorbing light and minimizing shadows. The navy blazer is one of the most reliable ways to cut a dashing figure.
Yale Class of 1916 navy blazer worn by the great-grandfather of Riley Scripps Ford.
The navy blazer is the epitome of classic elegance. It is simultaneously both collegiate and nautical, evocative of ivy covered campuses and seafaring adventures. While no one knows for certain the precise origin story of the navy blazer, the name of the garment may originate from the British Royal Navy in 19th century when the crew of the HMS Blazer work dark blue coats admired by Queen Victoria.
Navy blazers worn by British olympians in Chariots of Fire (1981).
Another equally reputable story credits the emergence of the word “blazer” with collegiate rowers, rather than naval officers. Members of a rowing club at St. John’s College at Cambridge University wore bright red “blazing” jackets to identify themselves when they competed in regattas. The style spread to Oxford University and to English public schools like Eton and Harrow – and ultimately across the pond to Ivy League colleges and American boarding schools – to become the iconic rowing blazers of today.
Navy blazers at Welton Academy in Dead Poets Society (1989).
By the Jazz Age, the navy blazer had become a staple of Ivy League style, sold by American clothiers including Brooks Brothers and J. Press and worn on the campuses of Harvard, Yale, and Princeton. Styled in deep blue and accented by brass buttons, the navy blazer retains nautical heritage and is suitable for semiformal occasions. Blazer buttons can be monogrammed or adorned with the crest of one’s alma mater.
Navy blazers at the St. George’s School graduation ceremony in 2014.
The versatility of the navy blazer is part of its enduring appeal. Paired with an oxford cloth button-down collar shirt and gray flannels or khakis, the navy blazer epitomizes traditional style. The addition of a necktie – especially a club tie or a rep tie – adds to the formality. In summertime, one can look quite sharp in a white polo shirt under a navy blazer. Confident men can accent the navy blazer with a variety of options for pants – wool plaids and tartans in the winter; white ducks, pastel chinos, Lilly Pulitzer prints, and Nantucket Reds in the summer. There is perhaps nothing more preppy than a navy blazer paired with madras pants, or a madras bow tie.
Navy blazers and Nantucket Reds at Ted Kennedy Jr.’s wedding.
When it comes to the timeless appeal of the navy blazer, The Official Preppy Handbook sums it up perfectly:
“It is the wardrobe’s backbone – or exoskeleton, really. If you could only one jacket, this would be it. It has three buttons, is single-breasted, and comes in soft flannel for cool weather and hopsacking for warm weather. The double breasted-blazer is worn by larger men, especially on power boats.”
Cartoon by Michael Maslin in the August 29, 2016 issue of The New Yorker.
The natural-shoulder, three-button, single-breasted model – known in Ivy Style circles a “3/2 sack suit” – is certainly the perennial favorite.
The importance of the navy blazer on display at the Clarke Cooke House in Newport, Rhode Island.
NOTE:
This article also appears in the print publication, The Navy Blazer Club (Issue No. 1 “Setting Sail” Summer 2025).
Has anyone here had any experience with J. Peterman? I like a lot of their stuff and it seems to be reasonably priced, but how is the quality? Also, while I certainly like the company’s style, some of the stuff they offer does come across as being costumish. Speaking of navy blazers, yes, indeed, a man could wear one every day to any occasion that does not require black (or white) tie. Remarkably ingenious.
Yes to Three patch pockets, including chest. Lower besom flap = suit jacket.
The patch pockets, swollen lapped seams, hook vent, and 5/16” lapel stitching, and faded, matte antique brass buttons are helpful — renders a more country/campus vibe. Especially if the cloth is a sooty, flannel finished twill — or hefty hopsack.
* the specs of original sea-worthy “blazer” remain murky and muddled, and, with all due respect to legend-mongering, certainly predate any/all Oxbridge rowing/crew appropriations. The best guess, heading the HMS Blszer lore, is that the cloth was a very dark (midnight) navy serge — bold, steep ribbed, napped finish. No stripes or gaudy tipped lapels & pockets. Note the admirable honesty of the current Brooks Brothers copy : “The origins of the name are lost to history.”
If the brass buttons were actually brass, they would tarnish naturally.
My Army Engineer buddy was looking into wearing Army Engineer buttons on a civilian blazer. I think that would be a subtle, sharp, and patriotic practice. (and not particularly expensive).
Breaking in a new J. Press model with a conference in Washington, DC this weekend (plus air travel on either side) paired with a few different pairs of khakis, button-down collar shirts, three ties, and oxblood penny loafers. My go to uniform for this sort of trip. No one else was dressed thusly among the 600+ attendants as for as I noticed although a few wore suits. . . sans necktie (shudder).
Often reflect back on my first blue blazer, as a college junior around the time I read TOPH. I had only suits until that time. My dad took me to Leggett In Roanoke, Virginia, and needed to cash his paycheck from being a long distance truck driver. We got the blazer, a Wimbledon model by Cricketeer, and as a tennis player I thought it was perfect, a size 39 long with patch pockets, of course. No blazer has given me the same lift since. Also bought a trench coat, my first, which I outgrew and which he wore until his death at 87. My fraternity bros. all had blue blazers and we often wore them with either gray slacks or khakis. No blazer has felt the same or meant anywhere near as much since. I wore it to finish college, in my first job, through grad school, and then some—before it either wore out or became too small. I have bought several brands of blazers since,, plus several by Brooks Brothers, with three blues hanging in my closet today (all size 44 long), including my final purchase Brooks, which I strive, at 64, to preserve for the future,, wearing lesser brands for travel. As we approach Father’s Day this coming weekend, I appreciate the opportunity, Matthew, to reflect on my great first blue blazer and my father for the gift. Dad is in heaven now, and I wish I could thank him for his great gift—and for the blazer, too.
I have my Dad’s WW2 US Army uniform brass buttons, which i also wore with my own uniform in the early 1970s. I always thought the buttons would make nice navy blazer buttons, but unfortunately, the military buttons are much too big for any blazer I’ve owned.
They also tarnished, and needed polished on a regular basis with Brasso.
I’ve owned 6 navy blazers in my lifetime, the DB given away to charity, two given to a relative and a 16 year old neighbor, and three I still have gathering dust.
The Blazer, khakis, OCBD, and tie was my “uniform” of choice during my career as a self employed CPA. Sharp and professional, never out of style.
As far as my experience with J. Peterman, I bought an Irish walker hat five to ten years ago, and I’ve been getting catalogs since. Decent quality hat, but a Hanna is better. Peterman stuff seems overpriced. Most is the S,M,L.XL variety.
A good piece of writing here. My RL navy blazer is part of my regular rotation, although I haven’t had an opportunity to wear my tuxedo lately. Have you considered a section where readers can upload photos?
An observation – The late JFK Jr and Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy are featured prominently in the photograph identified as “…Ted Kennedy Jr’s wedding.” Additionally, the chaps in the Nantucket Reds appear to be managing security! It probably was the occasion of Ted Jr’s wedding. So hopefully my American friends (and still hope so, as my second undergrad degree is from the USA) can clarify.
– Living it up authentically. With grace, style, and aplomb.
Thank you for the positive feedback on the article. You are indeed correct about the details of the Kennedy photo. The caption is intentionally minimalist. I like the idea of a member section to upload photos.
My apologies, it’s Daryl Hannah – not Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy – and indeed the wedding of Ted Jr on RI. I am in need of caffeine. Who’s up for coffee?
– Living it authentically. With grace, style, and aplomb.
My entire adult life -– from the summer before my senior year in high school down to my 80th birthday, which I celebrated in March — has been a continuum of various navy blazers. Every one of them has been the same 3/2 sack style with no darts, natural shoulders, center vent, flap pockets and brass-colored buttons. It would be safe to say that the navy blazer has always been the ‘sine-qua-non’ of my personal wardrobe. There was never a day in my adult life that I could not go to my closet and don a navy blazer. Those coats can be summarized as follows: (1) Size 40-Long, wool, purchased as a gift at Miller’s in Chattanooga in the summer of 1962 by my uncle to reward me for painting the interior of his garage. That navy blazer lasted through my senior year in high school, my four-year tour of duty in the U.S. Air force, my university days, and the first year of my career in the furniture industry. (2) Size 42-Extra Long, tropical-worsted wool summer weight, Southwick, purchased at H. Stockton, Lenox Square, Atlanta, circa 1973. (3) Size 42-Extra Long, wool, Southwick, purchased at H. Stockton, Lenox Square, circa 1974. (4) Size 44-Extra Long, wool, Southwick, purchased from Kent Brewer at H. Stockton, Lenox Square, after we moved to North Carolina in 1992. This garment was subsequently altered in 2018 by letting out the seams under the arms to accommodate a bit of added girth. (Must have been something I ate.) I still wear this coat after 33 years as my #1 “go to” navy blazer and it still looks pretty good! (5) Size 44-Extra Long, tropical-worsted wool summer weight, purchased at Brooks Brothers, Charlotte, NC, circa 1993. (6) Size 46-Extra Long, tropical worsted wool summer weight, Southwick, purchased from O’Connell’s in Buffalo, NY, in 2022.
All these blazers have been worn with gray wool flannel or gray tropical worsted pants, Scottish tartan trousers, khakis, tan poplins, seersuckers, Madras pants, white ducks -– even blue jeans.
I have had a bit of experience with J. Peterman. The quality was good, but the details were decidedly not ivy. They have a love for India and fin de siecle that is charming, just not us.
My favorite Navy Blazer story.
When I joined my father at Chipp in 1960 there was no need/ or room for me to be creative in the clothing aspect of the business – my father was the “Master”.
I did start our tie business – Chipp Neckwear – and I started a rental company that supplied suits,jackets,trousers,shirts and ties to companies that were creating the many advertisements being produced in the city.
A person called “the stylist” would come in and give me the story line of the commercial- for example:a man meeting with a banker to get an auto loan.The stylist would need to rent a few garment for each character to give the commercial director choices for the shot.
The clothing was not our Chipp merchandise.I had bought rental inventory that we kept on the 5th floor.
But there were exceptions.
If a celebrity was appearing in a commercial, they would take our Chipp jackets,etc,and when thy used it the production company would be required to purchase it.
Joe Dimaggio – The Yankee Clipper – appeared in many commercials for The Bowery Savings Bank and for Mr. Coffee.
They would always take one of our Chipp Navy Blazers for those commercials.
Mr. DiMaggio really liked our Navy Blazers.
He would always keep the blazer after the shooting.
When Joltin Joe died in 1999 my guess is the found 10 or more Chipp navy blazers in his closet.
Oh ya! Totally agree with everyone.
Paired with brass buttons, white OCBD, NATO band and bold rep tie (accessories shout) you’re totally in the casual style mode for any occasion.
My favorite photo of my son is from the August right before he left home for 9th grade. He had just turned 14, and he is wearing a BB blue blazer, 39R, that I sourced used and sewed his new school buttons on, a 14.5-31 shirt (about as small as they come for adults) and his new school tie, just a little long for him. He is grinning with the nervous excitement of a boy about to embark on the biggest adventure of his life. As you would expect, he wore the blazer hard at school, and more or less demolished it in the course of a year of daily wear. No matter. The buttons simply went on the next one, then a 40R. When he heads back for 12th grade this August, he’ll be a 42L, 16-34 shirt, and he’ll have to tie his school tie attentively to make sure that it hangs down far enough. The boy is gone and the young man has emerged. He’s still on the biggest adventure of his life, and, God willing, he’ll graduate next spring in his navy blue blazer.
Has anyone here had any experience with J. Peterman? I like a lot of their stuff and it seems to be reasonably priced, but how is the quality? Also, while I certainly like the company’s style, some of the stuff they offer does come across as being costumish. Speaking of navy blazers, yes, indeed, a man could wear one every day to any occasion that does not require black (or white) tie. Remarkably ingenious.
I could make use of two or three. Cold weather, hot weather, three season.
Wearing the uniform to church this morning. Light grey trousers, WOCBD, red tie, navy blazer.
Yes to Three patch pockets, including chest. Lower besom flap = suit jacket.
The patch pockets, swollen lapped seams, hook vent, and 5/16” lapel stitching, and faded, matte antique brass buttons are helpful — renders a more country/campus vibe. Especially if the cloth is a sooty, flannel finished twill — or hefty hopsack.
* the specs of original sea-worthy “blazer” remain murky and muddled, and, with all due respect to legend-mongering, certainly predate any/all Oxbridge rowing/crew appropriations. The best guess, heading the HMS Blszer lore, is that the cloth was a very dark (midnight) navy serge — bold, steep ribbed, napped finish. No stripes or gaudy tipped lapels & pockets. Note the admirable honesty of the current Brooks Brothers copy : “The origins of the name are lost to history.”
If the brass buttons were actually brass, they would tarnish naturally.
My Army Engineer buddy was looking into wearing Army Engineer buttons on a civilian blazer. I think that would be a subtle, sharp, and patriotic practice. (and not particularly expensive).
I will concur with the multiplicity of occasions the classic blue blazer can be worn with appropriate appearance.
Breaking in a new J. Press model with a conference in Washington, DC this weekend (plus air travel on either side) paired with a few different pairs of khakis, button-down collar shirts, three ties, and oxblood penny loafers. My go to uniform for this sort of trip. No one else was dressed thusly among the 600+ attendants as for as I noticed although a few wore suits. . . sans necktie (shudder).
Navy Regards,
H-U
Often reflect back on my first blue blazer, as a college junior around the time I read TOPH. I had only suits until that time. My dad took me to Leggett In Roanoke, Virginia, and needed to cash his paycheck from being a long distance truck driver. We got the blazer, a Wimbledon model by Cricketeer, and as a tennis player I thought it was perfect, a size 39 long with patch pockets, of course. No blazer has given me the same lift since. Also bought a trench coat, my first, which I outgrew and which he wore until his death at 87. My fraternity bros. all had blue blazers and we often wore them with either gray slacks or khakis. No blazer has felt the same or meant anywhere near as much since. I wore it to finish college, in my first job, through grad school, and then some—before it either wore out or became too small. I have bought several brands of blazers since,, plus several by Brooks Brothers, with three blues hanging in my closet today (all size 44 long), including my final purchase Brooks, which I strive, at 64, to preserve for the future,, wearing lesser brands for travel. As we approach Father’s Day this coming weekend, I appreciate the opportunity, Matthew, to reflect on my great first blue blazer and my father for the gift. Dad is in heaven now, and I wish I could thank him for his great gift—and for the blazer, too.
I have my Dad’s WW2 US Army uniform brass buttons, which i also wore with my own uniform in the early 1970s. I always thought the buttons would make nice navy blazer buttons, but unfortunately, the military buttons are much too big for any blazer I’ve owned.
They also tarnished, and needed polished on a regular basis with Brasso.
I’ve owned 6 navy blazers in my lifetime, the DB given away to charity, two given to a relative and a 16 year old neighbor, and three I still have gathering dust.
The Blazer, khakis, OCBD, and tie was my “uniform” of choice during my career as a self employed CPA. Sharp and professional, never out of style.
As far as my experience with J. Peterman, I bought an Irish walker hat five to ten years ago, and I’ve been getting catalogs since. Decent quality hat, but a Hanna is better. Peterman stuff seems overpriced. Most is the S,M,L.XL variety.
Matthew,
A good piece of writing here. My RL navy blazer is part of my regular rotation, although I haven’t had an opportunity to wear my tuxedo lately. Have you considered a section where readers can upload photos?
An observation – The late JFK Jr and Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy are featured prominently in the photograph identified as “…Ted Kennedy Jr’s wedding.” Additionally, the chaps in the Nantucket Reds appear to be managing security! It probably was the occasion of Ted Jr’s wedding. So hopefully my American friends (and still hope so, as my second undergrad degree is from the USA) can clarify.
– Living it up authentically. With grace, style, and aplomb.
Thank you for the positive feedback on the article. You are indeed correct about the details of the Kennedy photo. The caption is intentionally minimalist. I like the idea of a member section to upload photos.
My apologies, it’s Daryl Hannah – not Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy – and indeed the wedding of Ted Jr on RI. I am in need of caffeine. Who’s up for coffee?
– Living it authentically. With grace, style, and aplomb.
My entire adult life -– from the summer before my senior year in high school down to my 80th birthday, which I celebrated in March — has been a continuum of various navy blazers. Every one of them has been the same 3/2 sack style with no darts, natural shoulders, center vent, flap pockets and brass-colored buttons. It would be safe to say that the navy blazer has always been the ‘sine-qua-non’ of my personal wardrobe. There was never a day in my adult life that I could not go to my closet and don a navy blazer. Those coats can be summarized as follows: (1) Size 40-Long, wool, purchased as a gift at Miller’s in Chattanooga in the summer of 1962 by my uncle to reward me for painting the interior of his garage. That navy blazer lasted through my senior year in high school, my four-year tour of duty in the U.S. Air force, my university days, and the first year of my career in the furniture industry. (2) Size 42-Extra Long, tropical-worsted wool summer weight, Southwick, purchased at H. Stockton, Lenox Square, Atlanta, circa 1973. (3) Size 42-Extra Long, wool, Southwick, purchased at H. Stockton, Lenox Square, circa 1974. (4) Size 44-Extra Long, wool, Southwick, purchased from Kent Brewer at H. Stockton, Lenox Square, after we moved to North Carolina in 1992. This garment was subsequently altered in 2018 by letting out the seams under the arms to accommodate a bit of added girth. (Must have been something I ate.) I still wear this coat after 33 years as my #1 “go to” navy blazer and it still looks pretty good! (5) Size 44-Extra Long, tropical-worsted wool summer weight, purchased at Brooks Brothers, Charlotte, NC, circa 1993. (6) Size 46-Extra Long, tropical worsted wool summer weight, Southwick, purchased from O’Connell’s in Buffalo, NY, in 2022.
All these blazers have been worn with gray wool flannel or gray tropical worsted pants, Scottish tartan trousers, khakis, tan poplins, seersuckers, Madras pants, white ducks -– even blue jeans.
I have had a bit of experience with J. Peterman. The quality was good, but the details were decidedly not ivy. They have a love for India and fin de siecle that is charming, just not us.
My favorite Navy Blazer story.
When I joined my father at Chipp in 1960 there was no need/ or room for me to be creative in the clothing aspect of the business – my father was the “Master”.
I did start our tie business – Chipp Neckwear – and I started a rental company that supplied suits,jackets,trousers,shirts and ties to companies that were creating the many advertisements being produced in the city.
A person called “the stylist” would come in and give me the story line of the commercial- for example:a man meeting with a banker to get an auto loan.The stylist would need to rent a few garment for each character to give the commercial director choices for the shot.
The clothing was not our Chipp merchandise.I had bought rental inventory that we kept on the 5th floor.
But there were exceptions.
If a celebrity was appearing in a commercial, they would take our Chipp jackets,etc,and when thy used it the production company would be required to purchase it.
Joe Dimaggio – The Yankee Clipper – appeared in many commercials for The Bowery Savings Bank and for Mr. Coffee.
They would always take one of our Chipp Navy Blazers for those commercials.
Mr. DiMaggio really liked our Navy Blazers.
He would always keep the blazer after the shooting.
When Joltin Joe died in 1999 my guess is the found 10 or more Chipp navy blazers in his closet.
Oh ya! Totally agree with everyone.
Paired with brass buttons, white OCBD, NATO band and bold rep tie (accessories shout) you’re totally in the casual style mode for any occasion.
You’re on! Always up for a fresh, strong mug of black coffee.
Caffeinated Regards,
H-U
My favorite photo of my son is from the August right before he left home for 9th grade. He had just turned 14, and he is wearing a BB blue blazer, 39R, that I sourced used and sewed his new school buttons on, a 14.5-31 shirt (about as small as they come for adults) and his new school tie, just a little long for him. He is grinning with the nervous excitement of a boy about to embark on the biggest adventure of his life. As you would expect, he wore the blazer hard at school, and more or less demolished it in the course of a year of daily wear. No matter. The buttons simply went on the next one, then a 40R. When he heads back for 12th grade this August, he’ll be a 42L, 16-34 shirt, and he’ll have to tie his school tie attentively to make sure that it hangs down far enough. The boy is gone and the young man has emerged. He’s still on the biggest adventure of his life, and, God willing, he’ll graduate next spring in his navy blue blazer.
You’ve knocked it out of the park with this one! Cheers.