Kudos to longtime Ivy Style supporter R. Hanauer for the wonderful cover on its new spring catalog, which arrived in my mailbox today (as it should have in yours).
Hanauer paid tribute to the great tradition of apparel illustration that companies such as Brooks Brothers and LL Bean championed for so many years. A quick call to company scion Randall Jr. revealed that they indeed commissioned the illustration, and the artist’s name is David Merck.
Head over here to see the brand’s latest bow ties. — CC
Today Brooks Brothers sent out an email blast with one of the coolest outfits I’ve seen from them in a while. Check out the guy on the far right.
Now the dark trousers will be too tight for many of you (they almost look like five-pockets), and the jacket won’t satisfy purists, but the outfit’s formula has a real heyday feel for me. White bucks, dark trousers (try gabardine), a light-colored sportcoat, blue buttondown and madras tie. It’s kind of the spring equivalent of this guy. — CC
Bills Khakis, an American brand that made its name with sturdy chinos based upon military khakis from the 1940s, has released a new line inspired by the early origins of khaki cloth itself.
The new line, Tea Label, is geared toward a younger customer seeking a trimmer fit. The Tea Label trousers have a lower rise and trimmer leg than the company’s mainline offerings, and fabrics are distressed, garment dyed, and faded, in pastel shades as well as classic khaki hues. The name itself is a reference to British soldiers using tea-staining to camouflage their uniforms during the 1840s. (Continue)
Nothing gets past you guys. This time “DCG” alerted us to a report in MR Magazine from three weeks ago, in which J. Press announces that the Ovadia brothers have been relieved of their duties designing for spinoff collection York Street.
Ironically the line is not being killed but instead expanded internationally, beginning with Japan.
Ariel and Shimon Ovadia had served as creative directors of the capsule collection since its launch in 2012.
In other York Street news, this time the street in New Haven, J.Press this week announced the opening of its new location at 260 College Street, which is just one door down from the storied Owl Shop, one of the last great campus tobacconists.
Google pulls up this street view when the new address is entered:
J. Press was forced to vacate its longtime home at 262 York Street building when the building was slated for demolition. — ZD & CC
Collectors of vintage shoes and fans of mid-century advertising will no doubt recognize Nettleton as a preeminent brand from the heyday and early purveyor of the loafer, a term which it trademarked in 1937. Looking to capitalize on its history, Nettleton has undergone a relaunch and introduced its Heritage Line of Goodyear-welted shoes in traditional styles.
The story of the company reads like a heritage brand narrative par excellence. The once-prominent maker, relegated to obscurity by corporate acquisition and diminished production standards, has been reacquired by the founding family with a renewed commitment to craftsmanship.
The price, however, leaves us wondering exactly where in the marketplace Nettleton will find its niche. At $795 for calfskin and a stratospheric $1,500 for shell cordovan — which the brand’s website lists as an “exotic” leather — Nettleton is more poised to compete with the likes of Alfred Sargent and Edward Green than with traditional American stalwarts Alden or Allen Edmonds.
The Heritage Line is comprised of eight models, but the Barrington, a traditional tassel loafer pictured above, and the Bentley, a split-toe Venetian loafer, stand out as the most heyday-inspired styles.
Nettleton has provided this promotional video that claims each shoe possesses “the slow, prideful touch of the artisan,” but fails to state precisely in which country said artisan works:
After contacting Nettleton, Ivy Style was told that the shoes are handmade in Belgium, using leathers tanned in France and soles produced in Germany. A pan-European effort, but at a price point that rivals the finest makers in Northampton. The brand certainly has the history to support a heritage rebranding, but Nettleton’s “Shoes of Worth” beg the question, “Yes, but how much?” — ZACHARY DELUCA