Although the tie above is from Chipp, this year I’d like to state how thankful I am for Charlie Davidson of The Andover Shop.
Notoriously reticent and press shy, if Charlie hadn’t agreed to talk to me about dressing Miles Davis some five and a half years ago, and made it all sound so cool and inspiring, I doubt we’d all be here right now.
Also very thankful for you faithful readers who’ve made this all so fun. (Our sponsors, fittingly, will be thanked on Black Friday).
Happy Thanksgiving. — CHRISTIAN CHENSVOLD
Recently an email sent by an Emory University student to his fraternity brothers telling them they were badly dressed made national news.
Well it’s about time someone took them to task. (Continue)
This weekend a high school in Danvers, Massachusetts will open its production of Shakespeare’s “Twelfth Night,” which it has set on Nantucket. The local newspaper reports:
Where the “Twelfth Night” takes place on an island full of rich people, the Academy wanted to make its version “accessible to the Danvers community.”
“The cast is ridiculous,” a student told the paper, “and is not afraid to embarrass themselves.”
Danvers was originally known as Salem Village and is closely associated with the 1692 Salem Witch Trials.
To speak of preppy-with-a-twist among trad purists is to garner reactions ranging from “What does this have to do with Ivy style?” to “Stop wasting my Internet, I want to look at old advertisements.”
But as much as Ivy stylers would like to forget it, the apparel industry does not operate within fixed genre parameters. There are gray areas, economic changes, and the ever-nebulous terminology used to describe things. It is hardly arguable, however, that fashion trends have at least some measurable effect on even the stodgiest of menswear merchants. From approximately 2004 to 2012, the fashion trend we can term “Neo-Prep” achieved remarkable mainstream popularity.
But will it last? (Continue)
There are multiple meanings in the headline above.
For starters, there’s the coming winter weather, which will require coats like the one pictured above, which is coming to a retailer near you. It’s a toggle coat in rugby stripes and is either brilliant or monstrous, depending on whether or not you take your whisky straight.
As far as “shape” goes, the coat looks to provide the soft, robe-like feeling you get from a polo coat.
And finally, the item above — made by Tommy Hilfiger and snapped last week at the Fifth Avenue store — signals the end of our string of “cool Ivy” posts and the start of neo-prep. Tomorrow, contributing writer Daniel Greenwood will present an extensive survey of the neo-prep landscape, from the opening of York Street to the closing of Rugby. Here’s a preview:
The Punk-Prep cultural moment seems to have reached its high water mark from 2010 to 2011. Perhaps the most glaring example of the existence of this PunkPrep subset was 2010′s collaboration between J. Press and, mind boggling as it may seem, Urban Outfitters.
Books published during these years included the re-released “Take Ivy,” “Hollywood And The Ivy Look,” “Preppy: Cultivating Ivy Style,” and Lisa Birnbach’s return to prepdom with “True Prep,” among many other writings both in print and on the Internet. In the spring of 2011, Tommy Hilfiger’s namesake brand emarked on what was billed a “Prep World Tour,” setting up temporary shops in public spaces across the world’s capitals in miniature faux-New England cottages.
After some setbacks in various American locales, Rugby Ralph Lauren opened a store in London in the fall of 2011. Punk-preppy blogs, foremost among them Unabashedly Prep, reflected an active (if not overwhelming) population of young adults interested in taking preppy staples and wearing them in ways that felt current, items of clothing that were steeped in heritage (not always fully appreciated or understood), worn alongside neon sneakers that would pass muster at any ecstasy-soaked Röyksopp (for the fogeys: a Norwegian electronic “music” duo) concert.
Stay tuned for pink and green skulls and crossbones. — CC
In last month’s issue of GQ, the magazine managed to twice make an assertion that puzzled us here in Tradsville: namely, that a buttondown-collared shirt is not a dress shirt.
The first instance occurs in question-and-answer format in Glenn O’Brien’s “Style Guy” column:
Most of my dress shirts are buttondown- collar oxfords, but I recently started a job overseas and I’m receiving mixed reviews on pairing them with ties. Most Brits say it’s a faux pas. What is your opinion? Is the oxford too Americacentric to take abroad?
Surprise! The oxford cloth button-down is not a dress shirt! Don’t tell Congress or they might pass a law making it one. It’s not a faux pas to pair a button-down with a tie—say, if you’re going to lunch on the weekend or to see Arsenal play—but for the office, you might want to consider European wisdom and get with the dressier options.
European wisdom? Didn’t we take the ingredients we wanted from European culture, cuisine and wardrobes and come up with our own way of doing things? And for much of the 20th century, as the United States rose to its preeminent position in the world, the men who were running the country (such as the gentleman from the State Department in 1959 who’s pictured above) had no qualms about doing it in buttondown collars. Going back farther, to the time when the fictitious Nick Carraway was a struggling bond salesman, the buttondown was even the chosen shirt of Wall Street. (Continue)