Five Years of Trad

We continue our 2019 year-end wrapup with a revisit of this 2009 post based on the five-year anniversary of “trad” on the Internet.

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Five years ago today a man who goes under the username Harris posted these immortal words on the Ask Andy About Clothes forum:

I live in the Northeastern US and tend towards the American Look. Or trad or whatever you wish to call it. Sack suits, tassel loafers, shetland crewnecks, Harris Tweeds, madras, etc. I am interested in knowing how many forum members have stuck with this look: the J. Press-Brooks-Andover Shop crowd.

The post resonated with a large number of members, and before long trad had its own Ask Andy subforum. Within a few years, the online village of Tradsville had grown to include competing forums, a handful of trad blogs, and eventually Ivy-Style.com.

I wasn’t around in the early days of Andy’s trad forum, but a few years ago I got my editor at the San Francisco Chronicle to green-light a story about trad. I called it off, however, when I decided there wasn’t enough material to peg a story on. It was simply a group of guys on an Internet forum who shared a certain taste, without any larger sociological or fashion implications. Last week, however, the New York Observer took a shot at a trad story.

For Ivy-Style’s 100th post, I made a crack about how the thing I was proudest of was never having attempted to confirm or deny that there is or is not such a thing as “trad.” I will now further elucidate my ambivalence.

While there’s a Wikipedia entry for trad, there’s also a wiki entry for Bigfoot. “Trad” is a term the Japanese use for traditional American clothing. Before Andy’s trad forum, its use in America had been limited to the world of jazz, where trad is a term is used to describe a deliberately passé, Dixieland-style of music that was an alternative to the radical sounds of modern jazz. And while the term shows up in Alan Flusser’s 1996 book “Style and the Man,” historically “trad” was not a common term used to describe classic natural-shouldered American clothing.

However, we’re not living in the past, we’re living in the present.

You can certainly see the appeal of the word. From a linguistic perspective, trad was coined (or imported) at a time when a new word was needed. The term “preppy” had long since ceased to describe a specific style of dress or socio-cultural background, and had become almost meaningless. (In the PBS documentary “People Like Us,” for example, a teenager from rural Texas uses the term “preppy” to describe any fellow student who doesn’t live in a trailer.) So taken at face value, you can certainly see why a 50-year-old man fond of bow ties, argyle socks and striped watchbands — often worn simultaneously — would prefer to use a word like “trad” to describe his wardrobe, since “preppy” is what his daughter calls the clothing on “Gossip Girl.”

Harris, the man who started it all, has been called a troll, though he’s been called this by other trolls, so make of that what you will. Probably since I interview people and write articles for a living, I’ve never had much patience with the anonymous side of the Internet. The way I see it, anything you’re not willing to sign your name to isn’t worth saying. Was Harris on the level? Who knows. And at this point it doesn’t really matter. (Requests to interview Harris for this post, incidently, were unanswered.)

Regardless of the dubious authenticity of trad, five years later it continues to irk and roil a certain notorious English Internet troll, who needs trad the way the Marquis de Sade needed the Church.

And for that, on this 14th day of September, 2009, we should all raise a glass of champagne. — CC

19 Comments on "Five Years of Trad"

  1. Christian,

    Brilliant article! Congratulations, my friend.

    Your blog continues to highlight the beauty of classic American menswear
    whilst maintaining a witty view of fashion.

    A shall toast to your continued success with Ivy-Style!

    Boola – Boola

  2. I prefer the term “Ivy League” as it was called originally in the ’50s. “Trad” seems like a subset of the style that has a slightly different focus. Not that there’s anything wrong with that, of course.

  3. Or perhaps a G&T?

  4. Interesting that this “event” has gotten the most discussion over at Talk Ivy.

    The 5 years is most relevant to Trad the internet phenomenon rather than Trad the look, which is obviously much older. It’s been an interesting few years. Good discussion and a few arguments. Lots of folks I’d like to go have a drinks with sometime. Maybe someone will throgh a party at 10 years.

  5. Thanks for the great article and thoughts. This 5 year “anniversary” of sorts is a great reminder of the resilience of a Traditional American Style. Ivy, Prep, Trad are all historical reference points in an enduring style and attitude toward clothing and life.

    Longwing, rum & tonics around.

  6. Arigato gozaimashita HTJ-sensei!

  7. Definitely one of your most insightful, clever and direct moments, Chris my man.

  8. I agree that posters should sign their real name!

  9. Heavy Tweed Jacket sums up, for me, our preferred style of dress best. It is a studied succession of the American Look developing along traditional lines.

  10. Bryan Beaumont | December 27, 2019 at 11:57 pm |

    The term Trad avoids the drunken, misogynistic fratty associations of Ivy League and Preppy.

  11. Down Tradden | December 28, 2019 at 6:14 am |

    @ Bryan Beaumont

    It certainly does and it avoids the cosplay implicit in notions such as ‘the look’ that seem to go hand-in-hand with terms such as ‘Ivy’.

  12. @ Bryan

    True. Insightful comment.

    Calls to mind Kingman Brewster’s biting contempt for “that Dink Stover crap” and “Bonesy Bullshit.” That he was likely wearing a vested flannel suit, wool challis tie, and starched OCBD when he made these remarks — suggests a subset among the ranks: those who nurture a condescending antipathy for the goofy, smiley “rah-rah” types.

  13. Speaking of Trad, seems it’s high time CC go full fogey by trimming the Command Whitehead to Elgar(ish) mustache. Or, even better, a 1st-Earl (General Douglas) Haig.

  14. I looked at Haig. Yes, that’s kind of the direction things are going with the stache. Beard is now very cropped. Then again, may go full Viking. It’s a long winter.

  15. The Haig/Elgar mustache correlates well with the philosophy that undergirds your Trad Man project. A female colleague relayed to me recently (in a moment of shocking honesty) that a full mustache constitutes a robust “F-You” to women, as most women apparently hate or at least dislike them. And then there are the military and outdoorsy connotations. I say “Go for it.”

  16. Vern Trotter | December 29, 2019 at 9:55 am |

    At least Kingman Brewster was the best dressed college pres I can recall. There was a real Brooks collar roll also. Am sure there is none to be seen now.

  17. Vern Trotter,
    Check out photos of Yale president Peter Salovey for a good collar roll:
    https://images.app.goo.gl/JkprBvAKtYJ4k9mNA

  18. Why not knock off fifteen to twenty years from your look and go clean shaven with a crew cut. You cannot go wrong with looking squared away.

    Cheers

    Will

  19. Vern Trotter | December 29, 2019 at 5:34 pm |

    I did not remember Brewster wearing starched collars but looking at later photos, it so appears. Some makers, Gant, I think, actually had “Do not starch!” inside the collar.

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