Articles by Christian

No Two Alike: J. Press Launches Online Made-To-Order Shirt Program

Yesterday J. Press announced a new made-to-order shirt program. You choose the fabric, fit and details and receive the shirt, which is made in the USA, in three to four weeks. Prices start at $135.  Given the competitiveness of the dress shirt market — not to mention the current state of office attire — we




Brooks Sells Southwick, Company Sale Goes Before Judge

Today the sale of Brooks Brothers went before a judge, while this evening news broke that Brooks Brothers has sold the Haverhill, MA Southwick factory. CBS Boston reports: Eastern Real Estate will buy the building and 21 acres of the property for $14 million. Brooks Brothers filed for bankruptcy six weeks ago. Two other firms


Elegance In Black

Although this is somewhat tangential to our subject matter, it is germane to this present moment in American society. I should also be of interest to style omnivores.  As a previously unpublished writer with the paper, I pitched this piece to the LA Times back in 2005 . An editor greenlighted the proposal, and when


The Son Also Rises: New Philadelphia Haberdashery Junior’s

While many menswear retailers are shuttering in the wake of the virus and its economic aftermath, a new “updated trad” shop, Junior’s, has opened. Based in Philadelphia, it was founded by Glenn Au, a veteran of O’Connell’s and H. Stockton. Contributing writer Eric Twardzik investigates. * * * Glenn Au may have named his new


Sailing New Seas: Brooks Brothers In Newport & Palm Beach

Brooks Brothers’ bankruptcy is fueled in part by having too many retail stores in nearly every corner of the globe. But there was a time when the brand maintained a presence in only two places outside of New York. And these were not in other bastions of the eastern establishment, such as Boston, Philadelphia or



The Preppy Costume Days Are Over

We posted this back in 2012. Given recent speculations of COVID’s fatal blow to the way people dress (more on that soon), maybe a preppy costume revival isn’t such a bad thing. * * * A few weeks ago Esquire’s Matt Sullivan wrote a piece about his high school reunion. And not just any high


Relaxed Elegance: Drake’s Collection Three, 2020

Drake’s, the classic English menswear brand, pens itself as being under the guiding philosophy of “relaxed elegance”. Originally opening in 1977 in East London, Drake’s is still to this day arguably best known for its neckwear, and despite a clear Italian influence when it comes to their tailoring, houses an array of pieces that would


Ivy Trendwatch: All Roads Lead To Ivy

… and those that don’t, lead to prep. So relax: There’s hope for the future. It’s just that the future includes critter pants. This chart from that other world known as 2012 brought out some lively discussion. Fashion cycles churn fast these days, so you never know….


The Dye Is Cast

Does anyone remember the movie where a character says to another, “We seem to have passed that point where life stops giving and starts taking away.” In what in the big picture is a necessary cosmic correction for our consumer-based society, two more major retailers with trad connections have filed for bankruptcy. Both of them


A Highly Refined Sense Of Style: Esquire On Buttondowns, 1983

George Frazier snagged a mention here recently, which makes this post a nice follow-up. It’s one of many things that’s been sitting in my inbox for quite some time, sent by a colleague. It appeared in a 1983 issue of Esquire and is being posted here for the first time. Head over here to sign


Holly And The Ivy: Retro Rocker Nick Waterhouse

If you haven’t heard of this great musician with great style, here’s a reminder to give him a listen. * * * The June issue of GQ, while also including Justin Bieber, devotes a full-page profile to Nick Waterhouse, a Southern California singer and guitarist who takes his music clues from Buddy Holly and songwriters


Golden Years: A Tummler On York Street

A New York Times obit for a recently deceased Borscht Belt social director described his job title, “tummler,” a Yiddish word for someone who stirs up tumult or excitement, a jack of all trades. J. Press salesman George Feen (above left), known around New Haven as “Little Georgie Feen”, was a tummler on York Street


The Decline Of Prep?

Back in 2013 I wrote a 9,000-word essay on the Ivy League Look which I’m honored to say Alan Flusser considers “definitive.” As far as meta-analysis goes, I haven’t had much to say since then. However, perhaps the time will soon come for an addendum. In “The Rise And Fall Of The Ivy League Look,”


Poised Or Oblivious? The True Essence Of Prep

Back in 2012 columnist Mark Oppenheimer penned an essay about prepdom for Salon that’s pegged on Whit Stillman’s new movie “Damsels In Distress.” The piece is more thoughtful than the usual stuff that gets said about the cultural phenomenon known as preppy. Oppenheimer’s thesis is that preppy is more than a style of dress. This


Monday Grab Bag

Today we feature a random assortment of vintage images that have been lying around in an old shoe box, metaphorically speaking. And yes that’s a pun on “shoe;” after all, some of these images are from Yale.   This one, however, is from an altogether different kind of campus shop:   College men were once


The Cleanest Cut: Remembering Dick Clark

A clean-cut appearance has always been part of the Ivy League Look. With a soft-shouldered jacket and Princeton haircut, a young man could conveniently mask his salacious intentions. After all, what father could fear for his teenage daughter’s honor while on a date with a boy wearing a cardigan? In the 1950s, this kind of