Personae

J. Press Made-To-Measure Veteran Jay Walter Still Working At 87

Recently I wrote about the evolving J. Press York Street store in the West Village, but there’s one more way to get a J. Press experience in New York despite the closing of the Madison Avenue store. Jay Walter, a menswear industry veteran of the highest order who celebrates his 87th birthday today, reconnected with


Japanese Ivy Artists: Part Three, Yasuhiko Kobayashi

This is the W. David Marx’s last installment in his series on the original magazine illustrators who depicted the Ivy League Look when it first reached Japan. * * * Yasuhiko Kobayashi (b. 1935) is the missing link between Ivy League style in Japan and the post-hippie West Coast style that followed in the 1970s.


New Yorker Cartoonist William Hamilton, 1940-2016

William Hamilton, a popular cartoonist for the New Yorker since 1965, has died in an auto accident at the age of 76. His work has been featured on Ivy Style before via an ’80s-era panel with the caption “We decided to just stay preppy as if nothing had happened.” From the New York Times: Mr.


The Haberdasher Of Chapel Hill

I am haunted by the photograph of a haberdasher in the twilight of his life. He is wearing a pin-collar gingham shirt and an Italian silk sportcoat of green and heather with the perfect patina. As I peer into the face of Maurice Julian, I ponder what might have been behind the quixotic expression. Is


Japanese Ivy Artists: Part One, Kazuo Hozumi

This is the first in a three-part series on Japan’s original Ivy artists. * * * When Ivy League fashion first appeared in Japan at the beginning of the 1960s, it was a wholly alien culture with no local roots. Apparel maker VAN Jacket and its media partner, fashion magazine Men’s Club, needed to win


Elliot Gant, 1926-2016

Another member of Ivy League Look royalty who lived and worked through the heyday has left us. Elliot Gant (pictured above on left), who along with his brother and father ran Gant of New Haven, died on March 12 in Boston at the age of 89. On Friday The New York Times ran a lengthy


Bruce Boyer Podcast Interview

Last week Jesse Thorn put up an interview with Bruce Boyer for his podcast show called “Bullseye.” You’ll find it on this page under the date March 8, and Boyer comes in around the 39 minute mark. — CC


Charlie Davidson Turns 90!

Today Charlie Davidson of The Andover Shop turns 90, and a young acolyte recounts how the legendary clothier continues to inspire. * * * When I was in high school I read Christian Chensvold’s article for The Rake on Charlie Davidson and The Andover Shop and knew I needed to visit the legendary haberdashery as


Bud Collins, 1929-2016

Legendary tennis commentator Bud Collins died yesterday at the age of 86. Five years ago, when I visited Charlie Davidson of The Andover Shop, I had lunch with Bud and Charlie. The two were close friends, and for years Charlie had made Bud’s signature go-to-hell pants. As you can see from these photos, Collins was


A Pin Too Far

You probably remember a few years ago, back when Ralph Lauren Rugby was still alive, and neo-preps were wearing collar pins with buttondown collars. The buttons were not fastened, and had sometimes been removed, but those of the old guard found the look an incorrigible affectation. I recall going into the New York J. Press


Dreamboat Adrift

Tab Hunter was a clean-cut, all-American ’50s dreamboat heartthrob. But when rumors surfaced that he was gay, Hunter found himself torn between being true to himself and trying to save his nosediving career. Images of Hunter show up on vintage Ivy message boards, such as the Film Noir Buff Talk Ivy board, and he is


The Preppiest Man On Instagram

I’ve been vaguely aware that Kiel James Patrick had developed a huge social media following. Sometime last year when Town & Country listed him and now-wife Sarah Vickers as one of the preppiest couples in history, I immediately tweeted my disbelief at Kiel. There he was, right alongside JFK and Jackie! It seems like just


The White Buttondown: William Holden, 1954

Our recent post on William Ivey Long led some presumably blue-shirted commenters to say they were reconsidering white. Above is another compelling case for white by another show-biz gentleman named William. Actor Holden is pictured in a LIFE Magazine photo shoot from 1954. Sometimes a white buttondown is all you need. Except for the times


Friendly Rivals: GQ Interview With David Marx On Japanese Trad

When I was in college, I worked part-time tutoring foreign students in English. One Japanese guy became kind of a pal, and during a conversation one day he said, “The way it works is that America comes up with an idea and Japanese make it better.” I was only 20 at the time and this



Yuletide By The Fireside: C. Sharp On The Christmas Pipe Tradition

In the current climate, one half expects to one day see Santa Claus come out of a re-education camp gaunt, clean shaven, fully repentant and vowing never to pick up his sooty clay cutty. But thankfully Christmas still offers free range and a delightful annual tradition to that endangered species known as the pipe smoker.


Conservative Costume: A Tribute To William Ivey Long

For some, navy blazers, white shirts and rep ties are the perfect costume — costume in the dictionary sense, that is. Namely, “a style of dress… especially that peculiar to a nation, region, group, or historical period.” So it should come as no surprise that a costumer would appreciate this costume. Pictured is stage and


In Memoriam Robert Edward Royall Huntley, President Of W&L

A reader notified me that one of the old trad/collegiate guard has passed. Robert ER Huntley was longtime president of Washington & Lee University. There’s a video slideshow of him here, and the memorial service is streaming live right now. — CC


Proboscis Profiles: The Art Of Akira Sorimachi

Recently a unapologetically philistine reader left a comment saying he much prefered the world of finance to the subject of art history. Robin Williams’ character in “Dead Poets Society” has a speech about that kind of thing. But here’s some art I think all of us can appreciate: the work of Japanese illustrator Akira Sorimachi


CC Debuts Op-Ed Site, Bids Sad Farewell To Latest Comments Preview

Gentle readers (ha!), I have some news to share. I’ve been writing op-eds and essays for my entire career — in fact my first professional publication was a piece of social commentary in my local daily. I’ve always felt like a columnist by temperament, and in the present volatile climate we live in, I figured


Kamakura Shirts, A Family Company

Last night Kamakura Shirts held a party celebrating the opening of its second New York store, located Downtown at Brookfield Place. The party was held at an event space in SoHo and was far more packed than these photos may suggest. And yet the crowd all seemed to be part of a family that Kamakura


Fred Thompson, Personification Of Governmental Power

You probably heard the news last night that actor and politician Fred Thompson has died. I went searching for photos, and while he wasn’t the tradliest of guys, I found this great one with buttondown and pipe. While most men cut their teeth on acting before turning to the role of politican, Thompson did the


Electile Dysfunction: The 50th Anniversary Of WFB’s Failed Mayoral Race

Last week the National Review posted a story in honor of the 50th anniversary of William F. Buckley’s failed run for mayor of New York. In the photo above, it looks like he’s pulling one out of British Prime Minister Benjamin Disraeli’s playbook, looking artistocratically bored while his opponent speaks. It’s not hard to imagine



Daniel Patrick Moynihan, Style Icon

Daniel Patrick Moynihan came up in the comments section last week, and as he was an academic as well as politician, he fits the bill for our Professor Style Week. For a tradly guy you’ll see a far-reaching embrace of the genre, including straight as well as buttondown collars, desert boots, double-breasted seersucker, olive poplin,


Tailor Caid, Japan’s Jazz-Ivy Mad Man

Bruce Boyer’s book party at The Armoury last Thursday featured another guest of honor: Yuhei Yamamoto, who operates out of Tokyo under the name Tailor Caid. Hardcore Ivy fans will know him from his blog, which features a vast library of vintage images as well as samples of his tailoring work. Yamamoto was in town for


Boyer Book Bash

On Thursday night a book launch party was held for G. Bruce Boyer and “True Style.” The event took place at The Armoury and brought out a plethora of Boyer groupies and menswear personalities. Here’s Boyer with Alan Flusser, that other great menswear author, and who was clad in sneakers and sweats (perhaps from just playing


To Die With Your Boots On

The phrase “to die with your boots on” means to leave this earth while still doing your duty, heeding your call, following your passion. While some look forward to a long sedentary retirement, others want to work at what they love until the very end. I’m not sure if Leon Gorman was actually wearing boots when


Rare Breed: McQueen’s Jag For RL Magazine

My latest piece for Ralph Lauren Magazine is on the Jaguar XKSS, a rare ’50s sports car whose distinguished owners include Steve McQueen as well as Ralph Lauren himself. Ralph’s personal car will be featured in an upcoming fall Purple Label ad campaign. Here’s an excerpt: The XKSS’ combination of gorgeous curves and raw power