Personae

Chipp Off The Old Block

Paul Winston’s bold suit linings are so famous, many clients select the fabric for the lining before the fabric for the suit itself. Vivid linings are just one of the signature styles of Winston, the renowned tailor who began working for his father Sidney’s New York-based clothing company Chipp in 1961. Chipp soon became renowned


Presidents Day: Power Dressing In A T-Shirt And Chinos

A book on the relationship between clothing and  power examines centuries-old European monarchs, maharajahs and tribal leaders, totalitarian dictators — and the Ivy League Look. “Power & Style: A World History of Politics and Dress,” by Dominique and Francois Gaulme, presents JFK as the centerpiece of its chapter on post-World War II American style and global


Questionable Gentleman

The scion of a distinguished literary family, Charles Van Doren — who turns 93 today — was a professor of English at Columbia when he became a contestant on the popular quiz show “Twenty One” in 1957. His youth, clean-cut looks, family background and spectacular winning streak made him an instant celebrity destined for 15


Frank Reilly, President Of Brooks During The ’80s, 1928-2018

We have one more passing to report, although I was unable to find much information. Perhaps this post will attract some comments from readers who knew the man. Frank Reilly was president of Brooks Brothers during the preppy ’80s, and retired shortly after the Marks & Spencer takeover. He died last October at the age


John C. Bogle, 1929-2019

Our next tribute to the recently deceased is Jack Bogle, founder of the investment firm The Vanguard Group and a member of the class of 1951 at Princeton, the influence of which can be seen most evidently in his harircut. Head over here for the Wall Street Journal’s obit. — CC


Nathan Glazer, 1923-2019

We have several recent passings to catch up on, and the first is prominent Harvard sociologist Nathan Glazer. Glazer burst on the scene in 1950 “The Lonely Crowd” and continued to study and publish on the subjects of the American melting pot and multiculturalism. Here is an obituary in Tablet, and a 2016 profile in National


Roger Stone Arrested For Prole Gape, Will Plead Collar Roll Defense

Political operative and clotheshorse Roger Stone was arrested this morning in the Mueller investigation. His coat did not lie flat against the back of his neck, possibly caused by posture issues due to a tattoo of Richard Nixon on his back. His lawyer plans to mount the negligent collar defense. In spring 2017 contributing writer


MLK at Princeton, 1960

In 1960, Martin Luther King, Jr. visited Princeton University. Fifty years later, an alumus recalled the visit.


A For Effort

Still, perhaps no other 20th-century icon better exemplifies casual American elegance like Fred Astaire. While all Ivy style is American (even when it’s Italian loafers and Scottish sweaters), not all American style is Ivy. Still, few illustrate the crossover better than Astaire. Astaire’s personal style, which he employed in his films whenever possible, was based


Electile Dysfunction: The 50th Anniversary Of WFB’s Failed Mayoral Race

Twenty-fifteen marked the 50th anniversary of William F. Buckley’s failed run for mayor of New York. In the photo above, it looks like WFB is pulling one out of British Prime Minister Benjamin Disraeli’s playbook, looking artistocratically bored while his opponent speaks. It’s not hard to imagine him closing his eyes and feigning to snore.


He Looked Like He Sounded: CC On WFB For NRO

Recently National Review Online asked me to write a style tribute to NR’s founder, William F. Buckley Jr. The piece came out today. By way of snippet: Following the First World War, the male wardrobe modernized, and elements of the Ivy League Look fell into place one by one, creating signifiers that would identify in-group


Between A Rockefeller And Hard Time

It’s unlikely that any style community is more fixated on authenticity than followers of the Ivy League Look. Bring up whether a hook vent is essential or a jacket can ever be darted, and you’ll kick off a dogma debate rivaling the The First Council of Nicaea in its intensity.  This zealous guarding of the


New Year’s Yves

Our last post featured Yalies from the 1910s wearing grey suits with simple shirts and ties. Now here’s another dose of sobriety, though from a very different source. Pictured is fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent from the late ’50s and early ’60s — in other words, contemporary to the heyday of the Ivy League Look. He’s


The Modernist: An Interview With John Simons

Going into London’s J. Simons store is like stepping into a time machine. You’re immediately transported into an era of jazz, of illustrated advertisements, and good clothes. But for those that can’t make it into the brick and mortar store, the 2018 film John Simons – A Modernist, is your next best hope at getting the


By George He’s Got It: Is Bush 41 Our Preppiest Prez?

Another look back at our previous posts about President Bush. * * * On Wednesday George HW Bush celebrated his 89th birthday, and well-wishers were encouraged to honor the occasion by donning whimsical socks. Go-to-hell hosiery has become Bush’s trademark now that he’s at that age when dressing becomes something of a challenge. Although JFK


Solid Tie, Striped Watchband: GHWB & The Preppy Wrist

In remembrance of George HW Bush, we revisit this post from 2013. * * * Last month we paid a style tribute to George HW Bush. But since then the preppiest prez has made news a couple more times, so we’ll give him an encore with a focus on one of his trademark style quirks.


I Frankly Don’t Give A D—N

Recently a copyright lawyer came after me over a shot of Clark Gable I ran a number of years ago. I took that one down, but, undaunted, here’s another one of the Hollywood legend. There are still a few days left in November/Movember, enough to show that a pencil-think mustache goes with a buttondown collar.


Remembering Virgil Marson, Andover Shop Co-Owner— Updated

Due to the scarcity of images about Andover Shop co-owner Virgil Marson, this post from last month is being reposted with a new report from the memorial service, submitted by contributor ANV. The original news announcement can be found at the bottom of the page. * * * “Hi. My name is Nina Marson Roche,


Putting The “Con” In Conservative Attire

Being a con man doesn’t necessarily preclude having conservative tastes. In fact, since the devil uses the guise of virtue to spread evil in the world, it makes perfect sense for a grifter to don the vestments of the establishment. Men’s Journal recently ran a fascinating piece about a writer’s father who had passed away