Brooks Brothers showed its Spring 2020 collection recently. Exactly when or where I don’t know, since they no longer invite Ivy Style. I could blame that on the commentariat cranks, but no, it’s firmly on me.
WWD reported about it on Tuesday, writing:
The 201-year-old brand updated many of its staple pieces — dress shirts, polos, suits and pants — with performance attributes for spring, answering the call of men for comfort and flexibility in their business and casual wardrobes.
“Customers are looking for performance clothing — lighter weights, stretch, breathability — but they don’t necessarily want to trade comfort for style,” said chief merchandising officer Lou Amendola. “We are contrasting traditional Brooks Brothers styling with innovative materials and finishes.” That includes an update of the brand’s signature button-down collar shirt, invented in 1900, with a fabric that blends Coolmax and Supima for moisture-wicking and breathability, as well as five-pocket tech trousers.
There are only eight slides that accompany the report. The outfit below features the only 3/2 roll jacket, but button stance doesn’t mean much in an outfit of such questionable taste. He looks like he lives in a gender-neutral society of the near future and is on his way to work at IBM to build robots to replace humans, and if humans are going to dress like that, then I don’t blame him.
Japan Today, meanwhile, posted a lengthy article today on Kamakura Shirts, whose founder, Yoshio Saddasue, is pictured at top.
Customers liked the elegance of Ivy League design, and they wanted shirts that fit well and were made of high quality fabric. But they also wanted good value for their money. Yoshio’s basic philosophy was that a person may choose to wear the same suit for several days running, but in that case needs to be sure that their shirt (and tie or other neckwear) changes daily and always forms a positive impression.
Finally, Luxury London recently ran piece called “The Enduring Appeal of Gant & Ivy League University Fashion.” It opens with:
From the withered tree, a flower blooms; a saying that aptly sums up America’s situation following the Second World War. Eisenhower was presiding over economic growth, Presley’s gyrating hips made women swoon and Rosa Parks would ignore orders to relinquish her bus seat. As the Second World War ended and American soldiers returned home, the country went through a period of rapid change. New tastes and influences in sport and fashion spread across the nation. Radio, TV and magazines introduced people to an active lifestyle they had never dreamed existed.
Since sports activities influenced many creative tailoring features, the demand for a comfortable look continued to spread. The rigid hierarchical looks of the past were now being playfully reworked through youth culture. Ivy League universities became hot-beds of academia, exploration and fashion. The term Ivy League was first used in the 1930s to refer to a group of northeastern American colleges that were sporting rivals. It soon became synonymous with more than just sports, denoting academic excellence, prestige, tradition, while creating a new and relaxed style of fashion that rippled across the country.
Included in the article is this fine piece of collegiate eye candy from Gant. It’s been viewed nearly 6 million times, a sign of Ivy’s enduring appeal indeed. — CC