J. Press SS24 Lookbook Available Online Today

You can check it out for yourself here.

From the site:

As fashion evolves, Ivy style’s presence ebbs and flows within it. J. Press holds firmly to the art of fine tailoring that originated so many years ago with my grandfather, Jacobi Press. We are committed to preserving our rich history of timeless elegance and understated sophistication. Ivy style is not one dimensional and this season the inspiration for our presentation comes from classical sources. Just as fine artists have used clothing as a vehicle to express character and identity in their subjects, we have used elements of fine art as a vehicle to express the personality of our clothing. The following photographs highlight the artistry of our Spring & Summer collection of warm weather perennials. ~ Richard Press (Grandson of founder Jacobi Press)

I’ll say. Everybody knows I like J. Press but come on, this collection is a work of art, based on works of art. We have been saying for two years that we have noticed Ivy moving, this collection is where it landed. There is color amongst the tradition, there is quality amongst the innovation, there is levity amongst the history, there is good taste amongst the rule following.

I had the opportunity to bounce a few questions off of Robert Squillaro (Chief Merchandise Officer) and Logan Cannon (Marketing & Ecommerce Creative Director) about Ivy in general and the SS224 Lookbook, and I have transcribed it for you below:

The book and collection represent an evolution of traditional and classic dress to some degree.  Are there elements of design and wardrobe you would not innovate?  Are there particular pieces of your entire inventory that you would never evolve? 

Our core, or iconic pieces are standards that we have no intention of innovating or evolving. Pieces like our sack suit, navy blazer, ocbd, and khaki chino are standards that we stand by as classic and timeless.

For some time there has been a lot of reporting about men in general dressing down, both socially and at work.  Can you speak to whether you see that trend or not?   If you do see that trend, what changes have you made in your lines to accommodate it?  

We’ve certainly seen the trend of dressing down over time, however, we’ve also seen the trend of elevated sportswear as a response. We’re making sure to offer a wide range of tasteful and comfortable sportswear that can stand alone or accommodate a tie and jacket.

Almost every jacket in the book is worn with a pocket square, a choice I would love to see more of out and about.  To what extent do your catalogs shape trends and to what extent are your catalogs influenced by them? 

We would love to see our catalogs shape trends! For the most part though, we operate on a longer timeline of style than do fashion trends. Our campaign for this season was inspired by combinations of old master, pre impressionist, and impressionist artwork. We want our presentation to be as timeless and elegant as our product.

Invariably when I post about your books readers respond that they can’t wait to get theirs.  But producing a paper book is an expensive venture, especially high quality ones like what you do.  What is the strategy behind the books and do you envision a day when Press only markets digitally?

 We acknowledge that our customers value the printed book that we produce. The tangibility of printed material is special, and we’ve seen a slight return in printing across the industry for that reason. We intend to continue offering our printed catalog more as a brand presentation than the sales tool that it once was.

What is the true status of the necktie today?  

The necktie has become more of an occasion piece, but we still sell quite a bit of regimental striped ties that we’re known for. We’ve also seen an increased interest in knit ties because of their casual and comfortable presentation.

I am not a fan of some company’s collabs.  They seem to be stretches.  But yours are always spot on.  What goes into the thinking process the decision to or not to do a collab? 

We want to make sure we’re collaborating with purpose. Collaborations allow us to offer a selection of product that we may not otherwise produce but still fit into the Ivy aesthetic. Pennant Label collaborations allow us to step further outside of our traditional framework by working with brands that may be a reach for our J. Press main line. From a business perspective, collaborations provide a cross selling opportunity to customers who may not know about us otherwise, but this is where our patience and careful consideration prevent us from stretching too far.

How do the white bucks do?  I love them, wish I saw more of those out and about as well. 

Our white bucks have done well since launching them last year. We produce a high-quality shoe so we encourage our customers to wear them well, often, and outside of seasonal “rules”. And don’t worry about keeping them in pristine condition. Dirty white bucks are a transcendent style element.

The new book has come great pattern combinations.  Can you guide us as to how to combine patterns? It can be intimidating. 

Scale is the primary variable to consider when mixing patterns. Patterns too close in scale can be confusing to look at. Start by working with only two patterns at once, one of smaller scale, and one of larger scale. If you’re wearing a narrow stripe dress shirt and want to pair it with a regimental stripe tie, make sure the stripes on the tie are wide. Or mix a mini gingham check shirt with a large patterned plaid. Then consider color and tone.

Again, the Lookbook is here, can’t wait to hear what you think about it – I think it is a brilliant step.

JB

19 Comments on "J. Press SS24 Lookbook Available Online Today"

  1. So long as they’re getting the shoulders right. And the cloth. While it’s true there were many “roaming in the desert wilderness” year for J. Press, when both tailoring and cloth were sub-par (they just, well, were), there are reasons to hope. They’re using a few American (made in the U.S.A.) manufacturers I’ve admired for a while, and the prices are (still) fairly reasonable.

    I had hoped they might make a hard turn back to circa ’60s Ivy, including the Southwick Superflex-ish shoulder (which I hypothesize inspired the famous Norman Hilton shoulder) and robust cloth and modest dimensions (3″ lapels and tie blade widths), but, from a marketing perspective, I get where they’re going and why.

  2. Michael Powell | March 15, 2024 at 9:18 am |

    J. Press OCBDs top out at 17.5×34. I wear 18×36 Thank you Brooks Brothers.

  3. whiskeydent | March 15, 2024 at 10:42 am |

    The 50ish model with the very tall, swept-back speckled gray hair and matching beard, I swear I’ve seen him somewhere before.

    • John Burton | March 15, 2024 at 5:45 pm |

      Thank you.

    • Older Chris Pine.

    • James H. Grant | March 16, 2024 at 11:00 am |

      Could it have been in a 1980’s Rainer Werner Fassbinder B-movie? What ever happened to the wholesome, clean-cut, All American boy aesthetic I have always associated with Ivy?

      • Hardbopper | March 16, 2024 at 3:24 pm |

        We’re marketing to hipsters now, a good 20 years after the fact. See SE’s first comment.

        • John Burton | March 16, 2024 at 5:58 pm |

          Respectfully disagree. You see the models, right? What hipster says, “hey my dad has those pants I should get them?” Zero point zero.

  4. Charlottesville | March 15, 2024 at 4:08 pm |

    Nice pix. I love the lightweight Fox Air tropical-weight wool suit. I also see a suit worn with a white tab-collar shirt, which is a first in recent years. I don’t see any tab collars available at the Press website, but I would love to see a few snap-tab collars of the type I used to get from Tom Davis at BB back in the 90s and early 2000s. A true heyday classic that is now very tough to find.
    Can’t wait for the hard copy Spring Brochure to arrive in the mail.

  5. I personally, find it without personality. There’s no energy or motivation to purchase.
    No color.

  6. Hardbopper | March 15, 2024 at 8:10 pm |

    I, too noticed the tab collar. He must have used a shoe horn to get that tie knot in there. I’m still browsing my Fall/Winter brochure.

  7. H.R. Pufnstuf | March 16, 2024 at 12:58 am |

    Looks great. Can we expect discount codes in the brochure like days of old?

  8. Seersucker paired with Black Watch tartan pants — a seemingly bold, daring move upon a first glance, but I’m recalling the advice I received about darker hued Black Watch a few years ago: “Tartan, yes, but, bold and only a couple of darker shades, is functionally a solid…” So, a tip of the hat and salute to the stylist who gave this a go. I’ve attempted this pairing previously (seersucker jacket with black watch tartan ocbd) — and will again. And again. Another favorite pairing: Black Watch sport jacket with striped bold guards stripe tie.

  9. For any/all old school natural shoulder nerds: the made-in-U.S.A., Lovat Mill’d tweed jackets J. Press offered this past year appeared (to my squinted, critical eye) to be a throwback to an older Southwick model called “Warwick.” This model, favored by natural shoulder outposts including Arthur Adler and Robert Kirk (latterly “Cable Car”) preceded the “Andover” model, which featured a lower button stance and straighter (less rounded) front. Fingers crossed they keep at this.

    • I can find only one pic of the Southwick Andover model online, c.1954, and it’s not a great pic. From what I can see, it’s the ticket.

    • Chris Modlin | March 18, 2024 at 4:08 pm |

      Thank you for the Arthur Adler mention. My father and then I were long time customers.

  10. Greg Carrara | March 16, 2024 at 4:13 pm |

    I think the pictures and clothes are fantastic. I will be ordering some, if not all of it. Is that you in the pictures, John? It certainly looks like you. If it is, you look awesome. Thank you for this awesome site and the heads up on these pictures and the lookbook. I went through it and it is great.

    By the way, I am a watch hound and love the watch posts you did and would love more. I have been through many watches over the years, new, old vintage and in between. I currently have a gorgeous Daytona, and while hate the Rolex nicknames, a so called “Batman” or as I call in BLNR. They are permanent watches in my collection which am am rebuilding.

    Thank you again,

    Greg

  11. I’ll echo Greg. Great looking ensembles! Looking forward to the catalog’s arrival.

    Kind Regards,

    Heinz-Ulrich

  12. I hope I’m not crucified for this, but I was pleasantly surprised to see a Black model in the J. Press catalogue. Correct me if I’m wrong, but I feel like this is a first (not counting their Pennant Label, which is geared towards a different group altogether). The clothes are great as usual and looking forward to getting my physical lookbook in the mail.

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