This weekend is menswear market week here in New York, and so my biannual check-in with the friends and colleagues who help keep the Ivy Style ship sailing as we head into our second decade (if you’d like fresh content on a daily basis, please consider supporting the site).
Randall Hanauer, Sr. of R. Hanauer/BowTies.com shared my concern about the precarious state of the necktie. “You see it on television, the navy suits and white shirts,” he said. “The men look undressed. There’s nothing handsome about a man’s neck.”
Strangely enough, while the overall tie pie may be shrinking, R. Hanauer’s share of it is growing. “Our business is actually up. English reps and basic stuff seems to be actually what is selling.” There’s an argument right there for the power of tradition: men may be wearing fewer ties, but when they do, they want them to be classic. “It’s a little disturbing when you hear men say they don’t want to wear ties any more,” Hanauer continued. “The necktie is greatest piece of apparel there ever was. It’s exciting, it’s your personality. You can put on a gray suit, but any kind of necktie depending on how you feel. It’s fun.”
Just look at all the ways with which you can have fun:
Midway, Kentucky-based Crittenden Rawlings, whose career includes tenures at Polo and Norman Hilton, was there with his usual mix of Anglo trad. His country sportcoat with throat latch was executed in lavender linen herringbone, and was paired with a spread-collar shirt, equestrian-themed tie, and penny loafers.
From a few feet away, this fabric looks like a muted ’60-era madras, but is actually made from wool. Critt said he may be able to custom order it in various cuts, so give him a call to find out more.
Castaway Clothing had a plethora of embroidered pants and shorts with new motifs, including scotch and cigars, and, for the next morning, the hangover cure:
Frank’s Pants was there, with the label they won’t be using any more:
Survivalon’s top-seller is now available in olive, and will keep you dry on rainy train platforms, as well as on sailboats:
Finally, Duck Head will take flight once again this fall with a big relaunch playing up its Southern heritage. There are three back labels for three different quality levels.
Stay tuned for an interview with the man who made DH khakis a college staple in the ’80s. — CC