By Matthew Longcore
“It is the inalienable right of every man, woman and child to wear khaki.”
This is the memorable first line of The Official Preppy Handbook. It is certainly a true statement. Khaki pants are neither exclusive nor elusive. They are a wardrobe staple for all sorts of people from all walks of life, from restaurant servers to prep school students.
Much like the navy blazer, khaki pants have a heritage dating back to military uniforms. This provides a sharp, classic look which tends to improve the appearance and stature of the wearer.
Khaki pants have been written about extensively on this page. Let’s summarize what we know about this ubiquitous clothing article.
Etymology
“Khaki” originates from the Persian word khâk, which means “soil.” The term entered the English language through Urdu as khākī, meaning “dust-colored” or “dusty.”
In the early 19th century, British soldiers in colonial India began dyeing their white uniforms with a mud mixture to better camouflage themselves in the dusty environment.
By 1848, a khaki uniform was officially introduced for the Corps of Guides, a British Indian Army regiment. During the Boer Wars in South Africa (1899–1902), the troops became known as the “Khakis.”
After World War II, khaki trousers issued by the United States military became a wardrobe staple for civilians, especially on American college campuses.
A Trouser and a Color
The term “khaki” is now associated with both a trouser and the color. The color association with the term “khaki” has had a lasting impact for me personally. I once owned a khaki couch, which looked as if I had the couch upholstered with yards of fabric from a trouser maker.
I also gave the name “Khaki” to a beloved dog. She was a Shetland Sheepdog, or Sheltie, with the classic tricolor combination– white, black, and tan. The tan color of her markings reminded me of the color khaki, and the name Khaki fit her perfectly. Once I came up with idea for her name, that matter was settled.
The Right Fit
There are seemingly endless variety of pants these days marketed as “khakis.” Most lack the classic attributes which differentiate authentic khakis from imitations.
Here is what one should look for when buying khakis:
- Material – pure cotton only, brushed cotton for casual pants, firmer twill for dress pants
- Cut – straight leg, neither tapered nor flared
- Waistband – narrow waistband with slim belt loops
- Pockets – side pockets open along the side seam, rear pockets with optional flaps
- Cuffs – optional for casual pants, required for dress pants (one and one quarter inch)
The Official Preppy Handbook states, “Pleats are wrong. One wears the pants a little short, especially the khakis.” Khaki pants should never be pleated. They should not be too baggy, nor should they be too snug. And they definitely should not be too long. These are pants that do not need a break.
Khakis look great with suede bucks, penny loafers, and boat shoes. Don’t be afraid to show a bit of your ankle and ask your tailor to please avoid having any break in your khaki pants. It will just look sloppy. More dressy occasions merit a pair of nice socks, but khaki pants are ideal for the sockless look, especially with more casual shoes like Bass Weejuns and Sperry Topsiders.
Purveyors of Khaki
Contrary to what so many people claim, there is no such thing as “only one” Holy Grail of khaki pants. It all comes down to proper fit – what looks good on you might not look on me, and vice versa.
That said, here are some recommended places to start, a solid Top Ten List for khaki pants.
The Top Ten
For further reading:
The Khaki Chronicles by Christian Chensvold
GI Bill: Mr. Thomas and His Postwar Khakis by G. Bruce Boyer
I am a devotee of All American Khakis. They make several that are on your list, are much less expensive, and can likely be made to your specifications with a phone call.
Amen! Finally someone knows quality.
I was wearing Bill’s Khakis (M1s) on a grocery run a couple of hours ago. Pleated. Inch and a half cuffs. Sperrys. Rugby shirt. Dive watch.
Good article and generally good khaki list. But you missed one of the best khakis on the market: Orvis. Their “ultimate khakis” are made from 10.4 oz cotton. TEN POINT FOUR! They will last you through retirement, even if you buy them in college. BB’s tops off at a 8.6 oz cotton, I believe. Bill’s is great at 9.5 and is made in the US, which is huge plus. Have not looked closely at J Press or Andover. I really doubt J Crew is any better than BB (meaning not in the same league as Orvis or Bill’s).
Second the Orvis rec. They will cuff them for free and the inseams are in 1/4 inch increments if you order online.
Third the Orvis rec. The Ultimate Khakis could work as tank armor. However, they’re not dressy IMHO.
Fourth the Orvis. Recently grabbed a pair on their site during a flash sale and paid around $25. Very high quality and thick, which does make them a little hot in the summer but very happy and expect them to last a long time.
At UVA, at a time shortly after the Handbook came out, I could only afford Bean or Land’s End khakis, but I eventually added B2 to the wardrobe and wear them to this day. And no, no pleats. NOKD. One under-appreciated aspect of khakis is their ability to dry quickly, which is important in places like Charlottesville where it rains often. Lacoste polo, B2 OCBD shirt, or LLB chamois shirt (or two of these, or all three), grosgrain belt, Topsiders or Weejuns, no socks unless there is snow, LL Bean field watch. 346 navy blazer or 346 seersucker in summer, Harris tweed in fall/winter. In winter either the charcoal Boss wool topcoat or my Cambridge college (Emmanuel) puffer coat. The only other major outfit is rowing kit. Oh, and Nantucket Red or Tommy shorts.
NOKD?
I love khakis, and have been wearing cuffed Bill’s M2s for years, including today. They fit me perfectly, and wear extremely well. I have (I think) 8 pairs at this point, so hopefully I am set for the next decade or two.
I’m going to give Bill’s M1 a try. Orvis has a store near me. I might go over there this afternoon. Going for the old-school, Ivy style, which to me means cuffed, and a sharp crease that runs from the cuff up to the belt line. “Casual” with coat and tie.
Khakis are a staple. It seems odd that they’re so hard to come by. I think it’s because there are so many style variations available which overpower the demand for any given “fit” preference.
Khaki color looks best with burgundy or oxblood leather, and a lighter “stone” or similar color looks better with lighter brown leather, imo.
No “Ultimate Khakis” at the Orvis store. Must be an online only thing.
I think Orvis is going back to fly fishing equipment.No more apparel.
If true I better order a pair now.
Old school Ivy style may start off with a sharp crease, but since they are soft old all cotton trousers ironed without starch, that crease probably went away before lunch. An actual student away at school would probably skip the iron. Unironed khakis, tending towards high water, accentuated by that 1 3/4″ cuff, probably frayed in a few spots, are a very Ivy thing. They are often paired with an also unironed and slightly frayed OCBD.
O’Connell’s. My every day wear for years. 8.4 oz. Will hem.
O’C’s would ALWAYS be my preference. So much so that I just do without if O’Cs aren’t available. They’re always sold out in my size, so I do without. They may or may not restock this time due to manufacturing complications and preferences beyond their control. I don’t know what’s going to happen this time.
Fashions change; Styles change. Life goes on.
A few notes. First, according to an email received earlier this week, Orvis has just stopped making the Ultimate Khakis, in a move to go back to their basics and be a fishing and hunting gear provider. Second, about the list, many of these do not sell on-seam pockets these days, e.g., Duckhead. That is a deal breaker for me and probably the biggest surprise I find in current preferences of khakis by trad men. Lots of photos of khakis with slant pockets. Third, the photo of Paul Newman? Is he wearing khakis? The pockets look like those of 5-pocket wheat jeans. Fourth, All American Khakis (the Cramerton Twills) are nice, inexpensive, and thick, but their charcoal color chinos fade at the seams and edges. I would never buy them again. For most providers, in fact, it appears that all the darker colors fade in the same areas. I have several of the labels on the list, and currently prefer Jack Donnelly—their twills are nice and the poplins are great right out of the dryer—at least for me. Finally, it’s like nails on a blackboard when vendors and department stores call all chinos “khakis.” And again, a very enjoyable piece to read, Matthew.
JDV – I hope you are well. I think you are right about the Newman photo, and I certainly agree about on-seam pockets. Again, Bill’s M2s check all of the boxes for me, other than the current price, which is hard for me to swallow. I had the great good fortune to pick up 2 pairs for half price at the final sale of the late, much lamented Eljo’s here last December.
O’C’s are on-seam-pockets, a must have for me since I was educated by you, Charlottesville, a few years back. If they fit correctly, you don’t get the ridiculously ugly pocket flare which seems to be “the style” lately.
I am flattered to have been able to pass on some lore to you, Hardbopper. If I should require new Khakis after my current stock of M2s expire (perish the thought), I will check out O’C’s offerings.
Written like a Virginia gentleman. Respectfully and conservatively.
Orvis bailed ages ago on those who looked to it for clothing. Nice travel blazer, summer gingham and winter tweed jackets, corduroys, poplins in multiple colors, and on and on, all gone. The disappearance of the ultimate khakis is just the grand finale. And a resounding yes to calling “khakis” only those twills that are, in fact, khaki. Too bad about the fading Cramerton cloth AAKs. I have never ventured beyond stone, khaki, and light olive. Phew!
I hope their strategy works for them, but there are an awful lot of very nice and much less expensive fly rods and reels competing in that market.
Have 2 of the travel blazers. Never thought I’d commit TOPH heresy and wear anything that is not 100% natural, but they are really cut well, with 3/2 roll and patch pockets. In a region that idolizes blue jeans, these do not look cheap at all. Still have one pair of the Ultimates still with tags, bought on Ebay. The one drawback of the Ultimates was the shorter rise than I find in my Bills, Donnellys or even All Americans.
I am pissed that Orvis has abandoned the Ultimate Khakis. I also think the fly fishing reason is complete BS, as they have added several pieces of plastic crap for the fall.
I think I’ve tried most. My favorites:
5. Circa 90s Bills M1/M2 twill
4. PoloRL Philip Pant (heavy twill)
3. Circa 80s/90s PoloRL G.I. Pant
2. RRL Officers Pant
1. RRL Chino Field Pant
#2 and #1 are in a league of their own.
#2. MILSPEC, limited reproduction. Where made, I wonder? There are Made in China counterfeits out there. Not well made, I’ve read. I didn’t know about these RRL. I never hear about anything good until it’s no longer available. Still, if I could, I’d improve them with 18 inch O’Connell’s style at the hem.
A lot of RRL goods are made in Japan, using Japanese selvedge fabric — hefty and sturdy. The RRL OCBD is also a gem. RRL tweeds are tailored using Magee Donegal, London Cloth Co. Shetland, and Harris Tweed finished according to Ralph’s discerning specs.
I tried the Dickies 1922 khaki. Good, if a bit too polished. Offered for only one or maybe two seasons.
Brisbane Moss remains the trusted source:
https://www.brisbanemoss.co.uk/product/keats/khaki/
The authentic WWII-era khakis certainly did not have 18″ bottoms. More like 20″ for a size 34″ waist. To his great credit, Bill Thomas, heeding the 80s zeitgeist and probably Ralph Lauren’s influence, ignored the Ivy narrowness and resurrected the old circa 1940s U.S. military issue fit. If I could improve the RRL’s, I’d widen them 1″ throughout — thigh, knee, bottom.
The prevailing issue with a lot of purist 60s era Ivy is that, in a modern context, it can border on mod/hipster. It’s infected a lot of modern-day menswear, including suits. Even skinny guys look better in clothes that aren’t shunken / overly tapered.
I fondly remember the Polo GI pant and lamenting the fact when my only pair became unwearable. Favorites now are the Jack Donnelly M1 in poplin and the O’Connells khaki in the Brisbane Moss fabric.
PoloRL Big Chino — 20.5″ leg opening. Note copy: “Oversize fit.” “Big Fit from the ’90s” could be translated “from the 1940s, revived in the 90s.”
https://www.ralphlauren.com/men-clothing-pants/the-big-chino/0078235199.html?utm_source=CSE&utm_medium=GooglePLA__20398219363_&utm_source=PMax&utm_medium=GooglePLA__20398219363_&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20393729201&gbraid=0AAAAADvCVOC1D-TtBJqLjl0vmMBgtVFsk&gclid=Cj0KCQjwgKjHBhChARIsAPJR3xdQULYtnElB9FFplStn-b_NjFr5hvqvphKtuPhv5IX6TglIWmDKdfIaAoiAEALw_wcB
Bill’s Khakis M1P(leats) 20.5″ leg opening.
Thanks for the data. 20.5” is too much for me. Everyone is bracketing the target. It’s a cultural phenomenon.
I have just discovered that Orvis is now offering Ultimate Khakis 2.0 in trim and relaxed fits. The latter looks (online) a lot like the previous and they’re still 100% cotton. Maybe there is hope. https://www.orvis.com/product/ultimate-khakis-2.0/3L4M.html
I had missed it. But the pix looks like slant pockets and virtually no rise at all?
You’re certainly right about the pockets. That’s not a deal breaker for me, but it certainly makes them more casual and less elegant. Though rise is hard to discern without a human, I suspect you’re right about that too. High rise and on seem go together. Dang.
Duck Head is sadly “97% Cotton / 3% Stretch.” American Trench aren’t very high rise. Many of the others are a touch too expensive or don’t offer them in my size. I reccomend the J. Crew classic fits, though I wish they were perhaps a touch slimmer, I tried their Straight Broken-in Cut but the two fits fit much differently in the same size. Sticking with the classic for now, might try the broken-in ones again sometime.
It’s frustrating how much you have to pay now just to get 100% cotton khakis. I still have 100% cotton chinos from J. Crew Factory that I purchased about 15 years ago for about $20 a piece but now everything has stretch in it from everywhere and uncharge for it. The material just doesn’t hold up anymore. Question for y’all: do you get the cuff professionally tailored or just roll them up?