At a moment when the necktie is facing an uncertain future, a new label is seeking to recreate the Brooks Brothers ties of decades past with an Italian flair.
Grange Fine Neckwear is the brainchild of J. Mueser’s Chase Winfrey, who announced the project last month on his blog The Grange. Winfrey, a collector of vintage ties, is modeling his own neckwear on Brooks Brothers ties from the ‘70s and ‘80s that feature a wider knotting point and shorter length.
“To me, that black label era of Brooks ties is about as close to perfection as you can get in a necktie,” Winfrey says. “The proportions vary a little over the years, but my favorites are about 3.25” and have a pretty gradual taper, so where they knot is wide enough that they tie a substantial but compact four-in-hand knot.”
But Winfrey isn’t trying to create carbon copies. His ties will be made by hand at a small workshop in Naples with distinctly Italian touches like a super-lightweight interlining and untipped blades with handrolled edges.
“While the styling and proportions are similar, the construction is actually quite different,” he says.
According to Winfrey, few brands are producing anything similar to those vintage Brooks ties he holds in high regard, and no one is attempting what Grange Fine Neckwear aims to achieve.
“There’s still a few great places to buy a tie, I think J. Press for example does a great job, but to approach that classic American style with the super soft Neapolitan construction and the quality of a fully handsewn tie, I think that’s something totally different,” he says.
Grange Fine Neckwear is expected to launch mid-Spring, and will be available at thegrange.club. The inaugural collection will include several English-milled repp stripe ties, cotton madras ties, and bowties.
“I’m aware ‘Ivy with an Italian twist’ is a bit of a cliché by now, but I still think there’s something to it,” Winfrey says. “And hopefully for 150 dollars, I’m doing something that still feels approachable to many people.” — ERIC TWARDZIK