“American Ivy” discusses the origin of preppy style
August 16, 2024
“American Ivy” is a podcast from Avery Trufelman which discusses the origin of preppy style, its evolutions and comebacks, and the cultural expression that underlies clothing.
In is a series of 7 episodes from Articles of Interest, Trufelman focuses on the Ivy League look, a style which includes chinos, polos, sweater vests, and loafers. The podcast begins with a look at preppy style on the campus of Princeton University as documented by Take Ivy, the popular 1965 Japanese photo book. Take Ivy was an in-depth anthropological survey of the clothes worn on Ivy League college campuses.
According to Trufelman:
“This is functionally what I have tried to do over 7 episodes of this season of Articles of Interest. Understand how we got from Take Ivy to today, with the new Michael Bastian Brooks Brothers, the great chino revival, and Aime Leon Dore. How prep went from being a niche look on the campus of Princeton to an accepted style all over the world.”
There was a moment in time when prep schools were still single sex, strict dress codes including coats and ties were still in effect, and Carnaby Street and the hippy regalia of the late 1960s and early 1970s had come to the fore and were all over album covers, magazines, and the still relatively young world of color television. Much like the movie Pleasantville, it was inevitable that the world, even the Ivy niche, would embrace a makeover of their looks to incorporate bold and often incongruous colors. The Summer of Love, 1967, arrived at the right season to incorporate an immense shift to more sporty and casual clothing for the previously staid students. Shifting values were already on a trajectory towards greater egalitarianism, and the lower costs presented by offshore manufacturing and large retailers made this emerging look far more accessible than finding and entering the quaint shop with the circular table of repps, clubs, and foulards near the entrance. This was a moment ripe to be marketed. Meanwhile a more pure form of Ivy stayed alive, nearly dying in the 1970s. For its devotees the possibility of embracing some of the bright newcomers of prep seemed not a bad idea. Then TOPH hit and lines blurred which became increasingly confused by opportunistic designers and retailers who were looking at often superficial aspects of clothing. They still have no idea about things like sack jackets, perfect collar roll, and natural fabrics.
Rambling, I know:
Call me a conspiracy theorist if you will, for I have long suspected that “the tail is wagging the dog”. I had never until now heard of WSGN. I would assume there are others, who’s mission is to manipulate the fashion industry in order to stimulate retail sales on an annual basis. My dear mom told me about this in the early 70s. It’s no secret. It was our assumption at that time that it was big name French and Italian designers who determined the publics taste. (Really, at the time I wasn’t interested. It was too easy for me to wear Levi’s, a tee shirt, and low cut All-Stars.) It’s all about the $. The big name designers do what they’re told and are well compensated. So, how do we “Ivy-Style”types, with good taste in most things, gain representation within the opinion makers? The answer is, of course, we cannot. We are not into trends, we are into stability. We are conservative about a few things at least. It has long been known that it is teenagers who spend the money in order to fit in. They have not yet developed a sense of style or good taste, and most likely never will.
Your blog is a constant source of inspiration for me. Your passion for your subject matter is palpable, and it’s clear that you pour your heart and soul into every post. Keep up the incredible work!
There was a moment in time when prep schools were still single sex, strict dress codes including coats and ties were still in effect, and Carnaby Street and the hippy regalia of the late 1960s and early 1970s had come to the fore and were all over album covers, magazines, and the still relatively young world of color television. Much like the movie Pleasantville, it was inevitable that the world, even the Ivy niche, would embrace a makeover of their looks to incorporate bold and often incongruous colors. The Summer of Love, 1967, arrived at the right season to incorporate an immense shift to more sporty and casual clothing for the previously staid students. Shifting values were already on a trajectory towards greater egalitarianism, and the lower costs presented by offshore manufacturing and large retailers made this emerging look far more accessible than finding and entering the quaint shop with the circular table of repps, clubs, and foulards near the entrance. This was a moment ripe to be marketed. Meanwhile a more pure form of Ivy stayed alive, nearly dying in the 1970s. For its devotees the possibility of embracing some of the bright newcomers of prep seemed not a bad idea. Then TOPH hit and lines blurred which became increasingly confused by opportunistic designers and retailers who were looking at often superficial aspects of clothing. They still have no idea about things like sack jackets, perfect collar roll, and natural fabrics.
Rambling, I know:
Call me a conspiracy theorist if you will, for I have long suspected that “the tail is wagging the dog”. I had never until now heard of WSGN. I would assume there are others, who’s mission is to manipulate the fashion industry in order to stimulate retail sales on an annual basis. My dear mom told me about this in the early 70s. It’s no secret. It was our assumption at that time that it was big name French and Italian designers who determined the publics taste. (Really, at the time I wasn’t interested. It was too easy for me to wear Levi’s, a tee shirt, and low cut All-Stars.) It’s all about the $. The big name designers do what they’re told and are well compensated. So, how do we “Ivy-Style”types, with good taste in most things, gain representation within the opinion makers? The answer is, of course, we cannot. We are not into trends, we are into stability. We are conservative about a few things at least. It has long been known that it is teenagers who spend the money in order to fit in. They have not yet developed a sense of style or good taste, and most likely never will.
Excellent commentary, Tim and Hardbopper!
… and of course, have very much been enjoying these new articles from you, Matthew. Thank you!
My pleasure, Charlie! Glad to see such lively interest in the articles.
Your blog is a constant source of inspiration for me. Your passion for your subject matter is palpable, and it’s clear that you pour your heart and soul into every post. Keep up the incredible work!