The High Button Stance: Respected In Many Of The Best Schools

“Brooks” (note shortened name and quotation marks) was known and respected in many of the best schools and colleges, according to this ad circa 1940.

What else would have been known and respected at the time? The high button stance, with the bottom of the three buttons above the hip pockets, and the top button in line with the chest pocket. Tough to find these days. — CC

10 Comments on "The High Button Stance: Respected In Many Of The Best Schools"

  1. Very elegant color coordination, very little shoulder padding and soft rounded lapels. A stark contrast to the Bold Look, which took hold in ’48.

  2. Len Longville | November 13, 2017 at 11:48 am |

    To a confirmed two-button jacket fan, that useless top buttonhole looks even worse than the current (lower) ones, but I do liked the wide lapels!

  3. Len Longville | November 13, 2017 at 11:48 am |

    Mea culpa.

    “I do liked” = “I do like”

  4. Now I need to look up “covert” trousers.

  5. MacMcConnell | November 13, 2017 at 2:30 pm |

    Covert cloth is basically a twill woven in two ply wool yarn with two colors. The base color might be charcoal and the other color white or a lighter grey.

    In this case brown and olive,
    http://www.oconnellsclothing.com/O-Connell-s-plain-front-wool-Covert-Cloth-trousers-Brown-Olive.html

  6. Tis the season for tweed, cavalry twill, and whipcord.

  7. Interesting to see use of the words trousers and jackets, in best English tradition. Lapels are a tad wide and swelled edges appear to be absent, but those shoulders make the jacket perfect.

  8. I was surprised to see that the jacket in the photo was from Brooks Brothers 1940. My first quick impression, based on the lapels, was that it was probably made by Orazio Luciano or Ring Jacket, and currently available at the Armoury.

  9. I have a black labeled Brooks Brothers “346” blue blazer with no labels on the inside pockets and the black label right below the hanger loop. The lapels are 3 1/4″ at the widest point and the notches are very high. Of course it is a 3/2 roll coat but with the button holes almost perfectly spaced from the bottom button hole to the fourth on top. The top button, which I believe is for boutineers, and the top useable button are one inch farther apart than the others. It has a hook vent and dartless. Two buttons on the sleeves. The shoulders have only the slightest hint of padding. The buttons that came with the coat were round brass and flat. I replaced them with the golden fleece buttons. Can anybody give me any insight as to the age of this coat. It is the best blazer I have ever owned.

    Will

  10. Charlottesville | November 15, 2017 at 12:08 pm |

    Will – I can’t help you, but I have three old BB suits (from eBay) with a much higher button stance than the ones I bought from the store in the 80’s and 90s. All were made in the USA. Two are “346,” which I understand from something Mr. Press wrote a while back, were mainly made by Southwick in the old days, and the other is a Makers suit. All have the very simple black label just below the hanger loop, and all have the butterfly lining at the back. I would love to know when they were made. My guess is that they date from the 60’s. It could be later, but certainly before my initiation to Brooks. Remarkably, all still look great. I plan to wear one, a 3-piece navy, tomorrow.

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