As mentioned in our recent post on Crowley Vintage, Rowing Blazers has remodeled its NY pop-up shop for indefinite residence, and is celebrating its two-year anniversary.
Finally, as seen in the top image, the Yale Co-op is bringing back oxford shirts. But it wouldn’t be a relaunch without a collaboration angle to drive the buzz. Is the partner Sero, Troy, Fenn-Feinstein? No that era is long gone. It’s Vineyard Vines, naturally. — CC
Christian is obligated (it’s his privilege and pleasure, actually) to keep us informed about all manner of Ivy/Trad/Preppy news, including the expanding world of Vineyard Vines.
That said– in the spirit of (actual) excellence, let me again sing the praises of the Skip Gambert OCBD. The company’s online identity is High Bar Shirt:
A custom-made (in America) oxford (including collar points and lining options) for $99. The oxford fabric is hefty, beefy stuff that harkens back to (Ivy) days of yore.
Nothing against crap made outside the States, but…uhm, well. Uh. Okay, correction–
I’ve got some stuff from Vineyard Vines, but “fun” things only. I like it quite a bit as it shakes things up and brings some pizzazz into what could be an otherwise stodgy outfit. However, I wouldn’t buy the staples from them for reasons like the ones evidenced by the photos here.
On a similar (maybe separate?) note, just got a big order in from Ratio. I decided to go with them — as opposed to, say, Kamakura or Proper Cloth — for more traditional OCBD’s and I could not be more happy. They are exceptional.
@Trevor Jones – I have been pleased with Ratio as well for OCBDs and have been using them instead of Mercer. I like the more exacting fit with Ratio but Mercer still has far superior fabric selection and quality. I am intrigued by the highbar.com link posted by S.E. as well as favorable review. Cost and ability to input detailed measurement for fit seem on par with Ratio. I think I will give them a try soon.
Considering the fact that the collar is the most important element of an OCBD shirt, one would expect Yale to pay more attention to detail.
An OCBD is not just a shirt.
Vineyard Vines once in a while comes out with something okay. I tried on a seersucker jacket they have on sale right now the other day with absolutely zero shoulder padding. For $199,
it’s a great deal.
That being said, with outlet store and target, you know they are finished.
Gents, you will always get the shirt you desire if you have them made by a shirtmaker. It could be some online outfit like the aforementioned HB. However, and I say this with a straight face, that one of the best OCBDs I have owned was purchased in Primark, yes, you heard me, Primark (a very low-priced clothing chain in the British Isles). Bought almost 20 years ago and made from thick, soft cloth, with good collar length and roll. Standard fit. Blue. Frayed in all the right places over the years too. Would have been very cheap at the time. Sometimes a little gem presents itself to you out of nowhere…..their passing always lamented.
Late capitalism? The alternatives are the failed and totalitarian variants of socialism. Marxism, Maoism and Nazism (national socialism) have only delivered genocide and poverty. The only successful brand to emerge from socialism was Huge Boss, an ideological Nazi who rebuilt his business by making uniforms for the SS.
Failing old brands like Ralph Lauren and J Crew have finally been sussed as rip-offs by intelligent consumers. They know they can get better quality and value elsewhere. That’s the beauty and joy of real capitalism – free markets and individual choice. Joseph Schumpeter called it creative destruction.
It seems to me that the only people that actually seek out OCBDs purposefully are the same people that prefer a traditional collar which can be rolled (us).
Why is it then that collars keep getting shorter? Is the average mainstream menswear consumer asking for a shorter collar? Is there even demand for it? I just don’t get it.
I agree. I do think that the average mainstream menswear consumer is asking for a shorter collar, or at least not protesting when that is what is sold.
I am not a professional on the matter, but for what it is worth, I always find the collars in Central and Southern Europe incredibly short. So short they are are obviously not intended for a tie. Obviously not all of course. But in general, that is what I tend to see.
I agree I think mainstream consumers maybe feel like a big collar is outdated, or whatever, I don’t know. I agree, I don’t get it either.
The answer to your question is: Because perpetrators of a hoax have the post-adolescent world-view that everything is a just big damn joke. They make a living by selling this crap to idiots and they get a chuckle out of it.
Hard to tell exactly from the top image, but those collars look mighty short to me.
Yes, way too short!
Hows about some stretch pants… they be new.
https://www.vineyardvines.com/mens-pants/slim-fit-pants/1P1290.html?dwvar_1P1290_color=250&cgid=New-Arrivals#start=9&cgid=New-Arrivals
I hope for their sake Shep and Ian sell VV before the brand goes tits up.
Christian is obligated (it’s his privilege and pleasure, actually) to keep us informed about all manner of Ivy/Trad/Preppy news, including the expanding world of Vineyard Vines.
That said– in the spirit of (actual) excellence, let me again sing the praises of the Skip Gambert OCBD. The company’s online identity is High Bar Shirt:
https://www.highbarshirt.com/shirt-type/dress/
A custom-made (in America) oxford (including collar points and lining options) for $99. The oxford fabric is hefty, beefy stuff that harkens back to (Ivy) days of yore.
Nothing against crap made outside the States, but…uhm, well. Uh. Okay, correction–
Yes, actually. A great deal against that crap.
.
I’ve got some stuff from Vineyard Vines, but “fun” things only. I like it quite a bit as it shakes things up and brings some pizzazz into what could be an otherwise stodgy outfit. However, I wouldn’t buy the staples from them for reasons like the ones evidenced by the photos here.
On a similar (maybe separate?) note, just got a big order in from Ratio. I decided to go with them — as opposed to, say, Kamakura or Proper Cloth — for more traditional OCBD’s and I could not be more happy. They are exceptional.
Refer to: https://spectator.org/ralph-lauren-corporation-a-casualty-of-anti-elitism-and-the-grunge-look/
@Trevor Jones – I have been pleased with Ratio as well for OCBDs and have been using them instead of Mercer. I like the more exacting fit with Ratio but Mercer still has far superior fabric selection and quality. I am intrigued by the highbar.com link posted by S.E. as well as favorable review. Cost and ability to input detailed measurement for fit seem on par with Ratio. I think I will give them a try soon.
Considering the fact that the collar is the most important element of an OCBD shirt, one would expect Yale to pay more attention to detail.
An OCBD is not just a shirt.
Marcantonio,
Well-put.
I would certainly agree that an OCBD is more than a shirt.
Vineyard Vines once in a while comes out with something okay. I tried on a seersucker jacket they have on sale right now the other day with absolutely zero shoulder padding. For $199,
it’s a great deal.
That being said, with outlet store and target, you know they are finished.
Gents, you will always get the shirt you desire if you have them made by a shirtmaker. It could be some online outfit like the aforementioned HB. However, and I say this with a straight face, that one of the best OCBDs I have owned was purchased in Primark, yes, you heard me, Primark (a very low-priced clothing chain in the British Isles). Bought almost 20 years ago and made from thick, soft cloth, with good collar length and roll. Standard fit. Blue. Frayed in all the right places over the years too. Would have been very cheap at the time. Sometimes a little gem presents itself to you out of nowhere…..their passing always lamented.
Late capitalism? The alternatives are the failed and totalitarian variants of socialism. Marxism, Maoism and Nazism (national socialism) have only delivered genocide and poverty. The only successful brand to emerge from socialism was Huge Boss, an ideological Nazi who rebuilt his business by making uniforms for the SS.
Failing old brands like Ralph Lauren and J Crew have finally been sussed as rip-offs by intelligent consumers. They know they can get better quality and value elsewhere. That’s the beauty and joy of real capitalism – free markets and individual choice. Joseph Schumpeter called it creative destruction.
It seems to me that the only people that actually seek out OCBDs purposefully are the same people that prefer a traditional collar which can be rolled (us).
Why is it then that collars keep getting shorter? Is the average mainstream menswear consumer asking for a shorter collar? Is there even demand for it? I just don’t get it.
Chris Forrester,
OCBD: More than a shirt.
I liked that.
Officer Trad:
I agree. I do think that the average mainstream menswear consumer is asking for a shorter collar, or at least not protesting when that is what is sold.
I am not a professional on the matter, but for what it is worth, I always find the collars in Central and Southern Europe incredibly short. So short they are are obviously not intended for a tie. Obviously not all of course. But in general, that is what I tend to see.
I agree I think mainstream consumers maybe feel like a big collar is outdated, or whatever, I don’t know. I agree, I don’t get it either.
@ Officer Trad,
Your supposition is correct.
The answer to your question is: Because perpetrators of a hoax have the post-adolescent world-view that everything is a just big damn joke. They make a living by selling this crap to idiots and they get a chuckle out of it.