My personal history with Lilly Pulitzer goes back as far as I can remember. The women in my family loved Lilly and often wore the brand’s signature shifts. I remember the thrill of the catalog arriving in the mail and the hours I spent with it—an honor shared only with the magazine-quality ’90s J. Crew catalog. And our annual visits to the Lilly store were my first memories of shopping as a joy instead of an errand. Now, every summer when I take my Lillys out of storage, I’m brought back to those perfect summer days of childhood.
These clothes evoke such memories so powerfully because of one thing: the prints. The “playful and eclectic” designs (as aptly described by Christie’s) are immediately recognizable. They are prints for a party, even if the “party” is just a perfect summer’s day. The signature Lilly look perfectly captures this celebratory approach to life, and it was Suzie Zuzek, the artist behind the prints, who overwhelmingly shaped that look.
Suzie Zuzek, a Key West-based designer, created almost every print for the brand from 1962 to 1985. Her designs were worn by some of the most stylish women in the world, Jackie Kennedy among them, her work gracing the pages of Vogue and GQ (at the time, the brand had a popular men’s line, too). And, until recently, you might not have known who was behind them.
A 2021 posthumous solo exhibition at the Cooper Hewitt museum introduced Zuzek’s name to the wider public. This spring, Christie’s offered forty-three original Zuzek watercolors, on the market for the first time, in the auction “Suzie Zuzek: The Artist Behind Lilly Pulitzer.”
Last week, I was invited by Christie’s for a behind-the-scenes look at the Zuzek auction—an incredible privilege. The forty-three watercolors in the sale were all framed by Christie’s, who included order sheets and notes for each print on the back. I was able to take my time with each watercolor and their original papers, experiencing the artwork as it was meant to be experienced—as a working document. These prints and the corresponding documentation show the inner workings of a seminal moment in American style, one that has had an enduring impact.
Lilly Pulitzer once said, “That’s what life is about—let’s have a party. Let’s have it tonight.” Lilly dresses—and Zuzek’s prints—are synonymous with that sentiment. I’m looking forward to pulling out my Lillys this summer and raising a glass to celebrate Zuzek for the joy she’s given me and so many other women.
Thank you, Christie’s, for the incredible opportunity to see Zuzek’s work up close. My special thanks to Nathalie Ferneau and Caroline Kuchta for the generous invitation!
Feel free to drop me a line at sarahcooney@ivy-stylemediagroup.com. You can find me on Instagram @fewerandbetterblog or on my blog.
Sarah Cooney
What an extraordinary body of work. I had no idea the famous Lilly Pulitzer patterns were all created by one artist. And what an unforgettably alliterative name, Suzie Zuzek. I hadn’t heard of her before. Thanks for sharing this experience and design history.
Yes, it was absolutely incredible to learn so much about the history of the brand and Zuzek’s contributions!
Wonderful article. I’m sure that it sparks fond memories with many Ivy Style readers. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you so much! Viewing the pieces sparked fond memories for me as well, and I was so glad to share here!
“the brand had a popular men’s line, too”. Of what would this have consisted? Neckties and pocket squares? Sport shirts and shorts?
Hi Hardbopper–apologies for my delayed response, your comment is just appearing for me. The Lilly men’s line included sports coats, pants, shorts, ties, and much more–it was a true companion to the women’s collection!
The Lilly Pulitzer brand heydey was in the 1960s, and expanded the first time in the 80s. The story goes that Lilly was tired of having little to do after marrying into wealth. She started a juice stand in Palm Beach.
Lilly was friends with Zuzek from Key West and made her staff simple shift dresses from the bright prints so they wouldnt show juice stains. The dresses got press when Lilly’s other friend, Jackie Kennedy, wore one.
Until at least the late 1980s, Zuzek ran or was affiliated with Key West Fabrics, a couple of blocks from Sloppy Joes. Even in the 90s, Key West fabric had a website where you could buy yardage of some of the old Pulitzer prints.
The brand was bought or licensed and resurrected in the 90s by a Pennsylvania company.
I now see that the auction site has a much better article describing the whole Lilly and Zuzek connection. https://www.christies.com/features/suzie-zuzek-the-artist-behind-lilly-pulitzer-12670-1.aspx?sc_lang=en&lid=1