Last weekend I met up with Ivy Style contributors Zachary DeLuca and Jason Marshall for two of the smaller menswear trade shows. The highlight was a long session with Crittenden Rawlings, a longtime business associate of my girlfriend’s.
“Critt,” as he’s known by friends and colleagues, is a menswear industry veteran who came out of retirement a few years ago and manufactures clothing for a number of specialty stores. Currently based in Kentucky, Critt previously worked for Norman Hilton (who he said had “the best taste in the history of American menswear”) and Ralph Lauren.
Last season I had a look at a prototype sportcoat based on a classic Ivy pattern, and was happy to learn that the project is steaming along. While we were there, two members from J. Press (the US general manager and a designer from Press’ Japan division) were meeting with Critt, so you may see his jackets in J. Press stores this fall.
(Below are J. Press’ general manager “Sugi” at left, Jason Marshall, who previously wrote for Ivy Style about John Coltrane, seen wearing a Norfolk jacket by Brooks Brothers Black Fleece, Crittenden Rawlings, and Newton Street Vintage‘s Zach DeLuca, inspecting a cotton tartan jacket):
The Ivy model jacket is a blast from the past with all the distinguishing details: 3/2 roll, lapped seams, swelled edges, patch pockets, and hook vent. Critt said he worked very closely with the Tennessee factory where the jackets are made to ensure that the unpadded shoulder had a forward, sloping angle. He also carefully chose Shetland woolens similar to what was popular during the heyday of the Ivy League Look. The standouts were these two herringbones with beaded stripes:
This one, a charcoal and brown with blue stripe, didn’t fit our model quite as well and so was left unbuttoned:
The Ivy jacket has a suggested retail price of $800, but Critt said customers are welcomed to make direct inquiries. For more information, call 859.846.4228. — CHRISTIAN CHENSVOLD