Squeezed! J. Press Goes Slim For 110th Anniversary

J. Press (or “J. Squeeze,” for old-school guys in-the-know) is finally getting into the heritage and slim-fit game with its new 110th anniversary collection. Here’s the skinny:

Svelte guys will now be able to get a pocket-flap oxford in a more streamlined cut. How streamlined? I asked J. Press’ general manager for specs, but he’s currently traveling in Japan and promised details later. Stay tuned.

The tailored clothing is also slim-fit too, though at nearly a grand for a sport coat, you’ll need to be a fat cat to afford them:

Buckle-back chinos, $195:

Make sure you have a flap pocket to go with your buckle:

For neckwear, a rep tie with a symbol of the tailor’s trade:

And ditto for this belt, with sheep and scissors. — CC

55 Comments on "Squeezed! J. Press Goes Slim For 110th Anniversary"

  1. Finally. I know some might find cause to denegrate this as a cynical, commercial attempt to cash in on a trend, but I think Press should have done something like this years ago, instead of that botched Urban Outfitters thing.

  2. *denigrate

  3. I only wish they would consider offering their great suits in “suit-seperates”, in addition to their regular lines.

  4. Is it possible! A oxford club-collar shirt (without a skimpy collar) in a trim fit! Oh please say yes!

  5. I fear that the day will come when J. Press and Brooks Brothers phase out all their properly-cut clothing and we’ll all have to dress like Japanese.

  6. Roy R. Platt | February 7, 2012 at 11:21 am |

    Just wondering how much of a market exists for a wrong way Argyle and Sutherland Highlanders regimental necktie with little embroidered scissors and little embroidered shears on it.

  7. I like, like much!
    From the pictures not seems the ultra-skinny anorexic cut in fashion today,but the genuine early 60s classic silhouette.
    I hope that trousers with these coats are high waist.
    Is a pity that Jpress not sell in Italy.

  8. @Zach Actually the U/O collaboration was very successful. Since you and your moth infested clothing never stepped foot in the place they avoided the costs associated with fumigating the store.

  9. Wish someone would make an off the rack Jack Kennedy Style suit. 2 buttons ( 2 inch above the belt and 2 inch below). Pants – flat front with high rise and about 19-20 inch bottom cuffed to 1/3/4. Someone mentioned Brooks Brothers Fitzgeral Model. Not even close !!.

  10. I do like the tie, as a conversation starter. The suit coat style looks nice as well.

  11. Duke of Earl | February 7, 2012 at 4:41 pm |

    For those chubsters who are having panic attacks about skin-tight shirts, I’d bet their slim-fit shirts really aren’t all that slim at all.

  12. Duke of Earl | February 7, 2012 at 4:46 pm |

    But seriously, what sort of chump would pay $200 for a pair of chinos?

  13. Bud,

    The style you’re referring to is called the paddock model. It must be bespoke so that the buttons, both of which are to be buttoned, can be placed properly in relation to the gentleman wearing the jacket.

    Or so I hear.

  14. @K Urban Outfitters certainly knows the importance of low overheads. Glad that I could help them in my own small way.

  15. H.K. Rahman | February 7, 2012 at 7:49 pm |

    Hallelujah. There is nothing stylish about the balloonish fit of J.Press’ regular OCBD w/ flap. This shirt’s cut is large even for large guys. But $98?? Really??

  16. Count me as another one who likes the look but is too impecunious to spring for any of it.

  17. Imagine, and attempt at getting younger men to wear clothing origianlly intended for the college set. Personally, I’m all for it. Companies like Press need to find ways of staying fresh without losing site of what they are, or they will eventually disappear. Even the more rotund among us, myself included, who may never wear these slim cut things can agree that if it keeps the brand going and generates interest among younger men, it can’t be all bad.

  18. Bill Stephenson | February 8, 2012 at 2:37 am |

    For perspective, it’s helpful to remember that JP ownership is in Japan, and that major decisions are probably made there, with huge market for Ivy in Japan, in mind.

    Unfortunately, Ivy market in US is quite small, and JP is a tiny sliver of total US menswear market.

    However the panache of the label in Japan would seem to be immense. JP in Japan can be marketed to a significant market, as the same that you would see at Harvard, Yale, etc where JP has a US outlet. My guess is they bought the label, and not JP as it now exists in US.

    JP in US may very well be a loss leader for the parent company, and styles and shapes that we see are designed for the Ivy market (huge) in Japan, not the US (insignificant).

  19. Christopher Lloyd | February 8, 2012 at 4:56 am |

    Bill Stephenson is correct.
    Too much shoulder and too much waist on the above: A very English silhouette. Add a darted front and you’d never know that these offerings were aiming for an Ameican Ivy League look.
    It is the small differences that differentiate Ivy from Anglo and there is a spectrum of how far you can go within each style before you blur the distinctions into meaninglesness.
    Less shoulder & waist would fix these jackets from an Ivy perspective.

  20. Filiopietist | February 8, 2012 at 5:17 am |

    @Christopher Lloyd

    In other words, these are bad imitations of authentic Ivy.

  21. Filiopietist | February 8, 2012 at 5:32 am |

    @H.K. Rahman

    If Lands End Now sells ordinary OCBD shirts for fifty dollars, ninety-eight dollars for a J. Press shirt is a bargain.

  22. Henry, wearing the Paddock model takes more than a pair of buttons. Right or wrong, it’s an expensive way to look like you have one too many buttons fastened on your jacket. Even Kennedy looked paunchy in one of these. I’d avoid.

  23. @ Christopher Lloyd; I bet those jackets are clipped at the back to add waist suppression on the mannequin. I’m not saying there isn’t room for skepticism about the cut, but it is hard to tell from a couple of marketing photos taken at upward angles, which always tend to make jackets look top-heavy.

  24. Chris Lloyd | February 8, 2012 at 7:20 am |

    I’m sure they are. A grave mistake on which I’m judging them. They need to up their game at those prices.

  25. Chris Lloyd | February 8, 2012 at 7:32 am |

    Just for context, I am using original American Ivy League garments as templates and manufacturing in the UK. There is no magic to any of this. Just follow the rules!

  26. @Chris Lloyd

    I’m planning a UK Ivy news roundup so please send me details of what you’re up to. Evidently your email problems persist as I gather you haven’t received my responses.


  27. CountDeMonay | February 8, 2012 at 10:15 am |

    Does J Press still have extremely rude staff? My girlfriend, a fashion editor and the nicest person you’ll ever meet, won’t even walk past the store for fear of getting yelled at by one of those lazy goons.

  28. Hi Christian –

    I’ll switch to Gmail & be in touch. Hotmail just isn’t working for me & I’m very reluctant to use our company name for any of this at this point.
    As far as UK Ivy goes it’s John Simons. From what I know of the others in the UK with aspirations in this field they are all a very long way from fulfilment.
    Our intention is to look at the Franco-Ivy of the early 1960s as inspiration. Ergo the dreaded Jim and his “Minet” knowledge. We won’t be doing niche UK Ivy, nor will we be touching the currently stagnant American Ivy market.
    Our aim is to produce an alternative and to actually make money, mainly in France and continental Europe.

    With best wishes,


  29. Email just sent.

    Best Regards,

  30. Single Needle | February 8, 2012 at 1:12 pm |

    Wasn’t Christopher Lloyd already “outed” as Jimmy / James Frost Mellor in yet another guise?

  31. That was the genious of Brooks Brothers Fitzgerald line. “Get the young and lean in the family. Very smart and successful.

  32. Are we allowed to inquire about the maker?

    Scratch that. Of course we are.

    So, who’s making the 110th offerings?

  33. Wow. A second glance inspires one to wonder about the shoulder (point-to-point) width. Again, wow.

  34. hmm. these jackets look suspiciously British in regards to cut. Not that they’re ugly, just non-essential.

    Not sure there is a point to their existence (other than flipping a quick buck) in the context of it being American Ivy. The “boxy” look that so many complain about with J.Press isn’t just flattering for, ahem, “fatties” as some of you rudely mentioned earlier. It also works great on men (not boys) of my frame and stature (6’2″. size 42 jacket. 32in waist).

    These seem like Ivy-light. A weak gesture at what Ivy kinda-sorta is.
    The faux-hawk of Ivy.

    If a jacket doesn’t cover your hind quarters, it just feels like a goofy hipster clown suit.
    No thanks.

  35. this Ivy-Trad stuff sure is confusing…

  36. Kevin Williams | February 8, 2012 at 6:19 pm |

    I own several of the Press flap pocket shirts, and they were always a slimmer cut than my standard BB shirts. I can’t wear the trimmer stuff, as I’m not trimmer 🙂 The standard Press flap pockets fit just fine though.

  37. Dave,

    I wasn’t advocating the style, just explaining it. It was the original commenter, Bud, who seems to think that all it takes is two buttons.

    Some people say that the paddock model makes the wearer look taller, which may be why the Duke of Windsor had some paddock suits in his wardrobe. Regardless, I agree with you: anything that makes the wearer look paunchy is best avoided.

  38. @CountDeMonay I’ve had some odd experiences with the staff there. I asked them if they sold formal shirts with detachable collars, as I was hoping to buy one for a formal event I had coming up. I admit that it’s a bit of an obscure request, but Brooks Bros. still sells them at their Madison Ave. store and I thought maybe JP would carry them too. I was laughed at and told that “nobody wears those anymore” and that I should “go look in a museum” if I wanted to find them. Not particularly offensive I guess, but still a strange way to treat a customer, especially given that I could walk three blocks to BB and find them readily available for sale.

  39. Maker?

    If it’s Cohen, well, then…


  40. Chris Lloyd | February 9, 2012 at 4:29 pm |

    I also suspect Cohen.
    Thing is, Cohen can do better than this. So blame Press for not paying them to make better jackets.
    And Press can (and did!) do better than this too.
    All we are looking at here are profit margins. Make a jacket cheaply & sell it for as much as you can.
    Not a bad business plan if you are catering to a market of morons. However, I like to think that the real Ivy market actually knows its stuff.
    But it’s a very small market.

  41. Chelsea Drug Store | February 9, 2012 at 11:48 pm |

    Can you not investigate taking out some sort of legal injunction to stop this stalking of Russell Street/ James Frost Mellor/ Chris Lloyd or whatever he calls himselves? Surely this harassment must be actionable.

  42. Single Needle | February 10, 2012 at 12:13 am |

    @Chris/Russell Street/Jimmy/James Frost Mellor

    Regardless of whatever alias you’re using today, everyone long ago “twigged” that you’re an attention-whore, sociopathic nutcase who is clinically obsessed with Christian and this blog.

    Even the majority of your former toadies/enablers are now embarrassed by you and distancing themselves from your mental illness.

  43. Chelsea Drug Store | February 10, 2012 at 12:49 am |

    @Single Needle

    Have a look at the collapse of unlucky Jim’s mouthpiece over on FNB. The natives have well and truly circled and only the morons remain. I’m reminded of Gadaffi’s fantasy that his people loved him prior to castrating him. Meanwhile this blog goes from strength to strength. But I do wish we could but a stop to all this nonsense. Are there no computer geeks who could find a way of putting an end to this lunatic interference?

  44. A.E.W. Mason | February 10, 2012 at 4:58 am |

    For some of us who’ve reached a certain age, the spectre of J. Press offering a “slim fit” anything marks the end of civilization as we know it. But I think, perhaps, it’s been in the offing for quite some time. For years now, one has been hard “pressed” to find–even at J. Press–jackets with the three button silhouette shown in the beautiful Norman Hilton ads you’ve just recently published, or, indeed, in the vintage J. Press advertisement which leads the IS site today (2/10/12). It is a noticeably higher roll; not really a standard 3/2 roll which characteristically “tips-over” and fully conceals the third button. Rather, the lapel is cut so that it rolls to just under, or literally at, the third and highest button. The shoulder is natural – almost to the point of being a Neapolitan “shirt shoulder.” For me, this has always been the most elegant and subtle cut. At J. Press I’ve found this cut to remain only in their Robert Noble offerings and in a beautiful Scottish gun club sport coat I acquired about six years ago. But maybe I’m wrong. Certainly David Wilder at the New York store could tell you. Finally, I wonder whether I’m mistaken, or, am I correct that IS has never run anything on the old and long-forgotten Rogers Peet?

  45. Update: Just received specs from J. Press and diehards will be pleased to know that “slim” hardly means “skinny,” and in fact more like “a tad less boxy.”

    A 16 x 24 regular fit dress shirt, for example, has a chest measurement of 47 compared to the slim’s 46. At the waist the numbers are 47 and 43. There is also an inch or so less in the slim’s sleeve width, but the shoulders measure the same.

  46. I think we are seeing the convergence of several trends. Certainly the Mad Men retro theme of slimmer cut traditional clothing is a factor. In fact, this style is now mainstream; just look in the window of any Banana Republic at a mall near you. Consider also the state of the economy. For a company at the fringe of a sector (and both Press and BB are at the fringes of mainstream menswear), in an environment of lower sales figures, cutting costs makes sense. Slim cut clothing requires less fabric to produce, and can be marketed as new and up to the minute in style, all to the benefit of company margins. However, the movement to slim fit is in opposition to the expanding waistline of the US consumer. With aging baby boomers still a viable market, at some point manufacturers should take into account their need for looser fitting clothing in larger sizes. Ironically (and as pointed out in another post), the boxy 3/2 trad cut is more comfortable and flattering to a wearer in need of clothing with a more relaxed fit. Perhaps there will be hope when conditions improve ?

  47. Re: Rogers Peet

    From Guys and Dolls:

    (Adelaide): Slowly introduce him to the better things; respectable, conservative, and clean
    (Sarah): Readers Digest!
    (Adelaide):Guy Lombardo!
    (Sarah): Rogers Peet!
    (Adelaide): Golf!
    (Sarah): Galoshes!
    (Adelaide): Ovaltine!

  48. I tried the 110th Anniversary blazer on the other morning at the Cambridge store. The shoulders were good, more natural than much of Press’ current jackets, and the waist suppression is only for effect in the photos. The jacket hangs straight. It is a shorter jacket though.

  49. My experience: I’m slender, 145# and 5’9″. I wear J. Press suits and sport coats in my size, which require little in alterations to fit me off the rack, and I almost always get compliments, both at my law firm and at my club. When I’ve been to the Manhattan store, I’ve always been treated with gracious service similar to what I expect when I’m at my club. But I’ve made a point to get to know some of the staff, and I call ahead to let them know when I’m coming and what I want to see (e.g. sport coats, or trousers).

  50. Re: Rogers Peet/Those were the days, indeed.

    Guys and Dolls, of course. You probably know that there is some wonderful old Rogers Peet material online. Also, in Jonathan Yardley’s beautiful book (“Our Kind of People”) on his parents’ gracious and old-school life, he recalls that his grandfather Alfred, a Wall Street Lawyer, “liked to go first class; . . . he bought his boring gray suits at Rogers Peet.”

  51. Rojo, what size JP suit do you wear? I’m the same dimensions as you: 5’9″, 145-150 lbs. Men’s Small in most stuff, 36R in jackets.

  52. I just bought the JPress 110th Anniversary Blazer as its on SALE. The fit is pretty good but slightly short in jacket length. You look very chic and trendy. I’ve sent it over to my tailor to stitch in the working button holes on the sleeves. Please take note that I normally wear a size 38R for JPress suits but this trim fit blazer I wore a size 40R which fits very well. Those trim fit shirts fits very good. You do need to pair the blazer with a slim fit pants or jeans with slightly a shorter trousers length to compliment the look. In simple words; just look at Ovadia & Sons pairing for Jacket & bottoms ; and you’ll be on the right note.
    I would welcome any comments from any gentlemen who have bought items from the JPress 110the Anniversary collection.

  53. I too bought a 110th anniversary Heritage Trim-Fit Wool Blazer on sale. I really love it. Normally I get 38 or 39 coats, but the 40 fit me just right. I took it to my reunion, along with university buttons that were also on sale, and I got many complements.

    Also, my new J.Press trim fit button down fits me like a glove. If they make a wider range of the trim fit apparel, you bet I’ll be back more frequently.

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