DCG on New Year’s Eve on the way to a fete at his club, and not very amused by the rain.
Tux by heyday-era Continental tailoring house paired with Bean duck boots. Custom English pumps in black suede with grosgrain bow stashed inside VAN Jac tote bag. Reversible coat by J. Press. Black watch umbrella.
The best shirt for a tux is an OCBD.
Further proof that Bean Boots go with everything. In the ‘80s, my father was a Reagan appointee working in The Pentagon, where he reports seeing them worn by Jack Marsh, secretary of the army. Since learning this, I have routinely worn them with business attire. Plus one for semi-formal wear.
Doesn’t look like it’s in a nice neighborhood. Even the Princeton Club is on a nicer street.
@ Stinger – indeed, straight out of Bonfire of the Vanities…
The boots and bag are an affectation and, contrary to Andy O’s comment above, look ridiculous with that outfit. A pair of black oxfords with rubber soles would have been ideal. Then he could have changed into patent shoes, carried in a smart holdall, at the club. A black overcoat would have been smarter as the tan raincoat yells “red light district” at you.
Since when does a tan raincoat yell “red light district”? I was of the impression, that it’s the default color for raincoats.
@ Anon. Tan is fine for a DB trench coat with epaulettes, e.g. an old Burberry. In my city, a tan single-breasted raincoat is traditionally regarded as the “dirty mac” – it’s associated with old and middle-aged men who visit seedy strip clubs.
Tough crowd. I have a regulation old Burberry’s trench, but also a lighter weight single breasted raincoat from J. Press, and neither has ever visited a red light district. Not sure where Kenny is from, but I’m guessing the association may be a Brit thing. The SB raincoat is a classic, simple American style going back at least to the 1960s, probably earlier, and has been offered by Brooks, Press and various college-town shops for generations. I tend to go with a Chesterfield with black tie, but in a pouring rain could well imagine making an exception.
As for duck boots, rubbers, galoshes, etc., I see no problem with wearing them in foul weather and changing at one’s destination. I speak as one who has worn opera pumps in the snow and regretted it.
I love you guys! You NAILED it, “affected deviant” is my default.??
Does it make it worse that this was un-staged and CC actually spotted me headed towards the train like this?? ?
Don’t fret VEA, I took a cab home. This was taken in Astoria. Ze Club ain’t in Queens, though I’m told there are some budget-friendly strip joints under the Queesnborough Bridge, Ivy-Style meetup anyone?
‘Rubber soles black oxfords’, one of the more flaccid phrases in #menswear. I’m not buying a pair of rubber soles black oxfords just to wear in the rain. That’s absurd. Almost as absurd as owning suede opera pumps. ?
If I had the cojones to get stupidly affected, I would have been wearing my white tie and tails to a black tie event. Don’t think I wasn’t tempted…
I hope you all had a wonderful New Year’s Eve! The events committee rolled out the raw bar so it was a banner night for me. My wife had a concert earlier in the evening but made it just in time to cut in on a lovely southern girl I was foxtrotting around with, spouse gave me a smooch to ring in 2019, we cabbed to a friend’s place, kept at it with questionable champagne, and I lost a damned stud. Home by 4am.
Best wishes for a wonderful ‘19 fellas!
Thank you for everything you just wrote.
Happy New Year.
I never understood the nitpicking on this site. In a world of slobs (an overwhelming majority today), if you were walking down the street and came across this guy, none of you would be mocking him… Why does the internet just bring out the absolute worst in people? We all visit this site in our shared interest of traditional clothing, we should be encouraging one another, not tearing each other apart.
Nothing at all incorrect here. New Years Eve in NYC saw very heavy rain. I too wore LLB boots due to the rain and the large pools of standing water at every corner and all over the sidewalks. Uber helps but nature always wins.
A Trad Confused – Amen to all you say.
Thank you , but I don’t think anyone is interested in your transportation rituals.
So you’d wear different shoes, and not carry a tote. Big deal. What exactly do you think you bring to the conversation with all your piss and vinegar?
I don’t think most of follow some sort of pseudo-religious orthodoxy in how we dress, so lighten the fuck up.
Sorry I’m late, I see I almost missed a game of CanYouParseItBetter. The original sin is in the title: please gentlemen and gentlewomen, don’t ever say “tux,” it’s as bad as “frat,” which is not as bad as “slacks/slax.”
DCG wrote “rubber soles black oxfords’, one of the more flaccid phrases in #menswear.” How long did it take you to come up with that puerile line? That flaccid insult and #menswear tag are the giveaway signs of a narcissistic iGent who gets erections when looking at pictures of himself on internet forums and blogs. I’ll take my Crockett & Jones hand grades over your cheap rubber duck boots every time!
Fred Castleberry’s stalker accusing me of having a fetish is pretty laughable (“fetish” has become a bit of a shibboleth of yours in the last couple years. hasn’t it?)
Sorry you’re envious of my sweet tote…if I find another one do you want it? It was under $20 and was inside of a magazine (Popeye maybe?), I’ll just buy you one in case.
Your characterization of my Bean Boots is wrong. They are tied with the Eastland knot for an actual reason: left as they ship, the tongue falls in when slipping the shoe on, and the thick laces don’t keep a normal knot well. The above method keeps the shoe tongue in the ideal position for easy wear. I bought these over a decade ago, the knot dates from maybe three months after purchase. I have not given them a second thought until accused of careful thought by you. Actually that’s not entirely accurate, 5 years ago a friend bought his first pair of bean boots and asked me to recreate the knot, which I did after several failed attempts. His boots are also still done up to this…very…DAY.
The foxtrot is a dance…sorry if the name sounds absurd to you, but that’s the dance I was doing. The basic step is easy and it’s easy to lead. Great for new acquaintances. Now if I REALLY had a fetish I could have worked up a whole number with a hired professional and DAZZLED! Next time?
What’s wrong with “white tails (sic)?
Kenny don’t fret it didn’t take that long to come up with, like Mae West’s diary of witticisms I had it stored and ready to go ??
Again with the sex thing…please refrain from imagining me in a state of physical arousal…
Congrats on the C&Js though, don’t get them wet!?
Lady Anne might have called the tone of some comments above “ungenerous.”
Ungenerous is generous to these petty partisans.
Unfortunately “dinner suit” doesn’t rhyme with ducks.
I zapped into the ether one of VEA’s comments a week or so ago. Anyone else think we should just get rid of the guy? He never comments on historic articles but only chimes in on contemporary guys and their clothes to whine. As I see it, he’s contributed nothing of value here.
The way I see it, we’re complicit in his bad karma of sending endless waves of negativity into the world via the Internet. Five minutes on the couch in the office of Dr. Peterson and the wise doc would say “You’ve got a lot to work on, bucko.”
@Christian, you’re a rare gem. Re the VEA question, I give my proxy to @Charlottesville.
I actually think VEA is pretty funny when he wants to be, I don’t mind ribbing. Not in love with being psychoanalyzed as an obsessive or sex fiend based solely on what I wore two nights ago but hey, I did consent to be photographed, and the tote is indeed quite silly. Am I a fetishist? I don’t think so, but how am I supposed to prove otherwise? That is, after all, just what a fetishist would say…?
@ DCG – see, that’s why an OCBD is the best shirt for a tux -no studs to lose 😉 And as a Mainer, I commend you on the duck boots.
@ CC – “Dr. Peterson” – jeez, you’re still paying attention to that guy? Are we going to get posts on Ben Shapiro next? I do applaud your initiative on VEA, though, and I think from this thread, he certainly hasn’t demonstrated any reason why he should stick around. I know I can press some buttons here from time to time, but I hope I’m at least fair and open-minded when push comes to shove.
I’m paying attention to how people react to him.
I never fail to be surprised by the amount of commentary that is generated by
this dwindling band of men who care about style. And I am one of you. My tale
is inspired by rain on NYE.
Many decades ago I was posted at the US embassy in Quito Ecuador.
One of the senior officials at the embassy hosted a NYE party at his villa
just outside the city. It was Black Tie. In the pouring rain my wife and I
drove to the soiree. Since this is a style blog I’ll provide pertinent details.
I was wearing a Paul Stuart notch lapel tux probably by Southwick with
a silk vest and a creme silk evening shirt from Chipp. No evening pumps.
My beautiful wife, in an elegant cocktail dress. Both of us had Ivy or Seven
Sister bona fides. As luck would have it, some distance from the party
I got a flat tire. At the time in Ecuador when one had a mishap with a late
model car in a built up area help would usually appear quite spontaneously in the
form of peones eager to assist for a small fee. No such luck. It was
NYE. From a nearby farmhouse the din of Cumbias and Sanjuanitos
could be heard. The locals were celebrating and in no shape to help the
gringo. So picture the scene: A guy in a tux changing a tire while an
elegant chick in her 20s holds an umbrella. During my exertions I reflected
that our situation could have easily been the the subject of an Esquire or
VEA’s Holden Caulfield-like distaste for “phonies” is an interesting, if often dyspeptic, reminder that we are all subject to harsh judgments based on appearance. Being traditionally well-dressed confers no immunity, and I suppose we benefit as well from being reminded that creativity can be (mis)read as affectation.
Creativityy can be recognized and disti8nguishedfrom affectation.This site not about creativity in dress it is about affectation. No creative dresser needs to detail what they wear. Only the phony needs to list labels. Only the phony needs the assurance that they must be recognized as dressing in the Right manner.
Thanks for the honor of your proxy, HuntingHouse, but while I very much dislike the snarky tone of some comments from time to time, as exemplified by several of those above, I leave to Christian’s excellent judgment any decisions as to how best to maintain appropriate decorum on his site. I certainly appreciate that he deletes some of the nastier comments on occasion, including one a year or so ago calling me a rather vulgar name.
FWIW, in my opinion, out-and-out trolls should be banned as a matter of basic internet hygiene and people with an actual interest in the subject matter of the site should be encouraged to eschew ad hominem attacks, cruelty, gratuitous insults, preening snobbery, and abusive criticisms of petty differences in taste. If a commenter persists in behaving abominably, that seems to me a pretty good indication that he is merely a troll after all and should be shown the door. But others may draw the line in different places, and I suppose occasional sharpness in tone can be part of the price for the free interchange of ideas. Some of us are just prickly.
We all have quirks of taste that others find offensive, such as my occasional pinned club collar. Some like bit loafers and some prefer longwing gunboats. Some poor chaps even hate bow ties. So what? One man’s affection may be another’s affectation, and there is always the possibility that one may learn to appreciate something new. I have certainly learned from others on this site.
These days, the mere act of wearing a coat and tie seems to offend some folks. The fact that a handful of men (we happy few) are still interested enough in their appearance and in the history of the Ivy look to support a superior, professionally run website such as this is cause for celebration in a culture that seems to become more tawdry by the day. As an illustration of this last fact, I note that “hominem” above was changed to “Eminem” by spellcheck. Should I laugh or weep? Laugh, I think, but with a shake of the head.
A little late, and somewhat of a non sequitur, but the combination of ‘tux and ducks’ reminded me of a GREAT Richard Ford short story that I feel many who follow this site might enjoy — the title of the story is ‘Calling’ and its about a son who goes duck hunting in the bayou with his estranged and eccentric father, who shows up wearing a tux. It is absolutely outstanding.
Of course the decision is Christian’s but I say, with the exception of gratuitous profanity, let them post. I simply smile and shake my head at AEV/VEA’s ideas. Lighten up a tad and you may not be alone on NYE.
BB blue and white university striped PJ’s today. In bed with flu. Damn recycled airplane air.
Too much effort to please and placate Christian. Lets have good and sincere debate and polemiics. Grown men afraid to argue ,disagree and like the President -with feelings and clothes too precious to be exposed to adult situations. Let’s keep the soft roll and soul of the OBCD
DCG’s clothes remind me of Wodehouse’s description of a ninnth Earl of Dulwich or some such persons propensity to come down for dinner in top hat, boiled shirt, grey flannels and a shooting coat.
I think the combination looks cool by the way.
Charlottesville, you are a true gentleman in a world of jerks, phonies, and slobs. Thank you for your wise words—I think you summed it all up perfectly.
As for AEV/VEA—well, to borrow a term from my daughter—whatevs. I don’t think he’s sunk to the level of needing to be banned, but his periodic impersonation of a nattering nabob of negativism wouldn’t be missed if he were. Christian has excellent judgment in this area, so I, too, leave it to his discretion.
Thanks for your kind words, Henry. I really have no idea what people get out of being intentionally rude to strangers. Hope you and your family had an enjoyable Christmas and enjoy the coming weekend.
“3. get in that tux and outta Queens you foxtrotting bon vivant!”
Oh I will, my man. You’d better believe it. ?
Foxtrot is actually my best dance.
Actually, probably a tie with Viennese waltz….
I strongly suggest that you refrain from gazing in a mirror more than once a day to comb your hair and to shave because it must be a frightening sight. Maybe you should simply grow a beard, have a barber occasionally shave your head, and spare your self from the painful sight of what you have become.!
My thirty-year-old daughter showed me how to tie the Eastland knot a number of years ago. I use the Eastland knot on a pair of my boat shoes and on a pair on my ranger moc’s.
Sorry you lost a stud, but look on the bright side. When you buy another set, you will have three extra studs.
Ban VEA? That would be akin to the Emperor banning the little boy who pointed out that he had no clothes on. Here, the equivalent of Hans Christian Andersen’s weavers are the bloggers and self-appointed style police. They have somehow convinced the Ivy wannabes and Trads that rubber duck boots look cool, even in with a tuxedo.
They probably thought that Ralph Lauren looked cool when he wore denim jeans with his tuxedo at the PRL 50th anniversary party. By contrast, the Prince of Wales would never insult his guests by dressing like a slob. That’s the difference between Royalty and the nouveau riche who have lots of money but no real class.
Don’t shoot the messenger, listen and learn!
I’m sure many would be interested in learning from you, Kenny. Please email me so we can gat a post by you in development.
Sorry Chenners but it’s back to work this week. I’ve lots to do with Brexit falling apart due to the British government’s sheer incompetence. Expect huge turmoil in the financial markets over the next few months.
There’s lots of money to be made by exploiting the ignorance of the hedge fund idiots. They don’t understand the basic economics of the Eurozone and its huge trade deficit with the UK. Spain could go bankrupt within a few weeks.
Bring on the no deal Brexit!
Well, at least you still have time to read and comment for now.
If you make a fortune, please consider becoming a patron. I could go bankrupt in a few weeks, too!
You are truly are a. gentleman. Best wishes to you and your family for a happy and healthy New Yesr.
Please excuse the typographical errors. I am having problems with my key board.
I second Mr. Korn’s assessment, Christian. You have more patience than I.
I’m glad that Kenny is over there across the pond making sure things run right. Thank you Kenny.