This article about Nantucket Reds was published by our friend, Muffy Aldrich. Muffy is the editor of Salt Water New England: The Thing Before Preppy. Readers are welcome to subscribe to her Substack.
I Took This at the Newport to Bermuda Race Start…
…Which Was This Boat.
And This Was the Committee Boat for Another Newport to Bermuda Race. So Which is the Better Committee Boat?
We Got as Close as They Would Allow to Get a Shot of Those Reds!
All photos by/of Muffy Aldrich
Reds
Reds, such as Nantucket Reds, are an iconic style and color of trousers (and now, shorts).
Wearing Them Here With My F.L. Woods Striped Pullover
The original Reds came from Brittany, France in the 1800s. The sails of fishing boats were treated with reddish tannins from tree barks for mildew protection. Remaining material was cut and sewn into work trousers for the fisherman, which became know as Breton Reds.
Long before Murray’s Nantucket Reds were invented, the red pants of choice of yachtsmen and crew, were of course the ‘real’ Breton Reds. Long ago I picked up a pair of these classic yachting pants while sailing the Channel Races. The pants, after a while, turned a fabulous washed out red that could only be achieved by being on the ocean (not counting the Nantucket fast ferry). They were soft, the right degree of “baggy” and worn by just about every blue water sailor.
Red trousers worked their way into yachting worlds, and across the Atlantic.
Our Print
For example, the text of the above – titled ‘1934 Rainbow (New York Yacht Club) defeats Endeavour (Royal Yacht Squadron)’ – reads:
Sherman Hoyt, wearing his famous red pants, shouts “Luff! Luff, for God’s sake Luff!” to Vanderbilt as Sopwith tries to stop Rainbow passing. But Vanderbilt carried straight on, and because Sopwith was slow hoisting his protest flag, he was allowed to sail away with the vital fourth race.
Worn with my Le Tricoteur Guernsey While With Etienne at Royal Male in Newport
Nantucket Reds
Murray’s Toggery Shop introduced their version, “Nantucket Reds” in the 1960s.
Similar to the original Breton Reds, Nantucket Reds were sailcloth stiff when new with a deeper shade, and softened (in both cloth and color) with use, washing, and exposure to the elements. Often enough, as with sailor’s rope bracelets, the unique character of the trousers was earned over (and so represented) many happy weeks and months of summer life around the water.
Today, Murray’s standard Nantucket Reds are pre-faded, pre-softened, and outsourced. (Their M Crest line offers a Made in the US version.)
From One Spectator Boat to Another – I Spotted These at America’s Cup
I’ve been asking relatives in my family how they remembered buying Nantucket Reds back in the day, and all the old timers agreed there was a time when the pants were *not* “pre washed”. When you bought them, they were stiff as a board and over time they faded to the red everyone loves. There was a period when they started pre-washing the reds. Was in the late 80’s? 90’s? when the trend started and *everything* was “prewashed”. Ever since then, the Reds have gone downhill. I’ve stopped buying them. I’m intrigued by the Made In America line, but, still pre washed. I guess I’m old fashioned. I like breaking clothes in. They last longer.
I remember when Reds were, well, really pretty well red. They faded to that marvelous, soft, pinkish color over time and a hard life. I’m not sure I understand the appeal of pre-abused clothing. I like to do the abusing myself. : )
At the Helm, Until it Got Too Rough…
We always bought our “reds” at the Holmes Store in Northeast and dragged them behind the boat to soften and fade them. (Katahdin)
And today, many seek out dressier, more flattering and finished versions as well, across a variety of vendors.
What to Wear with Nantucket Reds
One of the most frequently asked questions is, “What should I wear with Nantucket Reds?”
The palette is very narrow. For button down broadcloth, seersuckers, or oxford shirts: light blue, white, blue and white checks, and blue and white stripes. For polo shirts: navy or white. For sweaters: navy or Aran. Navy blazers. For shoes: boat shoes, camp mocs, and bluchers. Sockless.
Stay away from pink and red, and green is difficult. Then use motif belts to add some color if desired. Leather belts can be too heavy.
[Do not wear them with] ill-fitting Belgium shoes purchased that time in New York.
We Were Close Up on Narragansett Bay
I’ve had half a dozen pairs over the years, but I can’t bring myself to wear them anymore. Not even ironically. The last pair I got at Murrays (a long time ago) were cut horribly — stove pipe legs, about as dumpy and frumpy as one could (not very happily) imagine. I had them tailored (legs pegged, actually) which improved them, but since I’ve (ahem) “outgrown” them, on the shelf they sat for a number of years before I finally bit the bullet (or the red in this case) and said adios and off they went to the Nearly New Shoppe where I am sure they were scooped up for $1.50 by a sterno drinking bum who looks better in them than I ever did. BTW a great source for them super cheap is the hospital thrift shop on Nantucket, where they have dozens and dozens of pairs in various states of wear to choose from for $5.00 a pair or so!
While in Newport
Other Nantucket Reds questions:
Q: When is the correct time to wear Nantucket Reds/Breton Reds?
While summer is traditional, many think of theirs as three season, as long as they can comfortably go sockless.
Another from the Best Committee Boat I’ve Seen – Newport to Bermuda Race
Q: Should you cuff Nantucket Reds?
If the Nantucket reds have cuffs, I wouldn’t worry about it, but I wouldn’t get cuffs on them myself if I were buying a new pair. I get cuffs only on wool grey flannel trousers and on summer-weight grey wool trousers.
I prefer them uncuffed. Easier to roll up and they dry faster. If they are just “for show” with a navy blazer, go for a cuff. It’s what all the other folks do at the yacht club.
A quick answer: Strictly speaking, it’s best NOT to cuff Brick/Nantucket/Breton Reds or any other trousers ostensibly meant for shipboard wear as “turn ups” could catch on cleats and other objects.
One can see both on-island, but the clear majority are not cuffed (particularly of the thicker, sailcloth Murray’s Reds). Personal preference to some degree, but I agree with the comments on cuffs being a bit more formal. I think Reds are made to be used, not just worn, so I would go without cuffs.
No cuff for reds – they are too casual, in my opinion.
Cuffs are original to casual pants and are almost entirely absent in men’s formal pants and trousers.
Took This While Waiting to Head Out to the Rainy Marion to Bermuda Start
Sunny Days in Newport
More from the Marion to Bermuda Start
Always a Good Bag for Me, from The Best New England Store – Royal Male in Newport
Snapped While Doing My Beach Route
And at Our Favorite Farm Stand
And in our Hometown Fourth of July Parade
This photo, which I took on my childhood beach, and was featured for a while on Murray’s site, shows how Nantucket Reds change color with age, salt, and sun. Women’s canvas Nantucket Reds behind; slightly seasoned Women’s poplin Nantucket Reds in front.
Back in the Day – Sporting New Reds Paired with My Husband’s Aran Pullover, Straight from Ireland
My preferred Nantucket Reds outfit – the pants topped with a navy Polo shirt (see John Kennedy golfing video on the Youtubes). If it’s good enough for JFK, then it’s good enough for me.
Agreed on that outfit. It’s a summer classic. If you are on the water, rather than a golf course, add a pair of Sperry Top-Siders and you are all set.
I was wearing my Sperrys (or is it Sperries?) all day today.
Sperrys, I think, and likewise.
Sperrys, but not preppys.
Agreed, preppies is the plural.
Just wondering, again.
If one were to launder a white oxford with a new pair or two of reds, would the shirt emerge that certain shade of pink that some claim to like?
Ugh, that sounds risky.. better to buy a pink oxford than to accidentally create one.
Southerners (of a sort and place) were exposed to brick red pants, made and sold by the ton by the likes of Corbin and Berle. The phrase “Charleston Red” was used, stocked by legendary bygone trad outposts, including Max’s (Charleston). I won’t hypothesize that they predated the Murray family’s version (made famous by some genius marketing), but it’s worth noting that the longtime maker of the famous (or infamous?) “Reds” was … a Southern (Georgia) manufacturer. A college roommate’s grandfather wore a “Breton Red” sport jacket to Friday evening club suppers; I feel sure he had never set foot on a particular New England island. As I reflect, I’d guess he had never even heard of it.
Southern brands, like Duck Head, make excellent brick red pants. I have a pair and it’s one of my favorites. A bit less nautical than Murray’s but also more versatile.
I have a very nice pair of “Charleston Reds” made by Berle under their Charleston Khakis label. I am sure that they differ from the Murray’s version in ways that would be apparent to the cognoscenti, but they work for me with polo or blazer, and continue to get better with age.
Nice post, indeed. Have a pair by J Crew with embroidered blue whales. Wait, blue embroidered whales, yes, that’s better. The whales seem a bit overdone for reds but they were bought at thrift for about $5 so I am not complaining. Getting threadbare so I wear them about once each summer, usually for a party. I wear them with a white button-down or blue/white university stripe, and with a blue blazer, and Bean bluchers or a pair of blue boat shoes. I live in a state where anything but jeans (and often even jeans) are considered dress pants, so they get quite a few stares. Grew up in Virginia though and you can take the boy out of the ocean air but you cannot take the ocean air out of the boy.
I appreciate the history of Murray’s Nantucket Reds so I own a pair, but as a northerner I find them too out of place to wear without feeling self-conscious. I did get some use out of them for a Halloween party last year going as “ridiculous over-the-top prep” with a yellow OCBD, striped ribbon D belt, green Shetland wrapped around the shoulders and boat shoes, which I think that was a hit.