Here’s another great find by comment-leaver and Facebook group member “Carmelo,” from the Esquire archives. In this case, the March, 1950, issue, in the pre-dawn of the heyday. The copy reads:
Let the acrobats have hourglass waistlines. And leave the bulking shoulder pads on the football field. For city and campus alike, naturalness is the answer — no frills, nothing superficial. University men of all ages who dress correctly know that “be yourself” also means C yourself.
There have been big, serious changes in college boys since those Fitzgeraldian days of raccoon coats and bell-bottom trousers. Today the Unversity suit is a big favorite on campuses because it mirrors the restraind and good taste of the men who wear it. This, then, is correctness. Long lines are accentuated by the natural width of the trousers. Further elongation is achieved by the slight shaping in front and the soft-roll lapels buttoned at the middle button. High-rise trousers hang best with braces. The view of the back shows natural width of shoulders and correct straight-hanging lines. The pockets are more accessible because of the nine-inch center vent. Designed for the young American’s physique, the University suit is now available in all the new lighter-weight fabrics, clear-faced worsteds, and lightweight flannels.
And there you have it. Soft, natural shoulders without a single mention of Italy. Except, of course, for our friend Carmelo. — CC