GQ has just launched a new magazine called GQ Style, which features an extensive profile on Sid Mashburn. If you don’t know a lot about him, Mashburn worked at Ralph Lauren for a spell and has been considered a tastemaker since opening his eponymous store in Atlanta (it helps that his wife used to work in PR at Conde Nast).
The house style is a sophisticated take on Americana, and if there’s anyone else out there interested in “Ivy chic” (no? OK…), then Mashburn’s shop and site are places to keep your eye on. He likes a lot of the things you guys do, including white Levi’s (which English Ivy guys seem to have a soft spot for), inexpensive Timex watches on nylon bands (beloved by trads everywhere), Belgian Shoes (for the Hamptons/Upper East Side/Palm Beach crowd), and soft-shouldered jackets. I met Mashburn at a trade show here in New York a few years ago, and he insisted on removing his sportcoat and having me try it on. It was indeed comfortable in the extreme.
Given that he’s a tastemaker lauded with a multi-page spread in the debut issue of GQ Style, there’s reason for Tradsville to cheer for Mashburn in the spotlight. That’s because he’s currently pushing, among other things, an updated sack jacket with an undarted chest. It’s extremely rare for a clothier that prides itself on being contemporary and sophisticated to produce a jacket without darts.
The jacket model is called the Virgil No. 3; here’s the description:
With a 3-roll-2 front, a hook vent, and no front darts at all, a jacket like this feels a little old-school-academic. Think of it as the fresher, sexier brother of the sack jacket. We built it with a soft (read: natural) shoulder & a specially-constructed canvas chest piece that’s light but has some shape — because when you wear a jacket, you kind of want the real man to show through. And while we always go for an American-Italian blend, the cut of this model leans a bit more stateside than the rest.
Back in the heyday, so-called “Main Street” clothiers copied the cut and details of the Ivy League Look and sold it around the country. These less-expensive clothes may not have been kosher to the purist, and the companies that made them soon moved on to other fads when the heyday ended, but they helped the style flourish. We should take the same attitude towards clothiers of today that may fall outside the small nexus of pedigreed providers, but are taking inspiration from the Ivy League Look and might just convert a few of our fellows to the charms of natural shoulders, hook vents, and undarted fronts. — CC