Ivy League By Worsted-Tex, 1955

Another great find by Carmelo Pugliatti showing mass-market Ivy at the dawn of the heyday.

And the worst-dressed award goes to the young man in the middle, who’s wearing a coat that looks like an orphaned suit jacket, along with a hat for over which his classmates will give him infinite grief. — CC

18 Comments on "Ivy League By Worsted-Tex, 1955"

  1. Carmelo Pugliatti | April 11, 2017 at 10:51 am |

    Interesting thing is that in 50s this seems be the new look in male fashion: a slender and clean silhouette. However this target is reached differently in the in the various countries.
    In USA the main solution is the adoption of “ivy” style, in Italy the coat is natural shoulders but darted and with a gently shape,in UK the new line is Edwardian inspired,with long coat,French is similiar to Italian but with a lot of padding in shoulder and a more round line.
    In common is the trend for single breasted (but in Europe the dpuble breasteds ara still lot) often three buttons,lean trousers (in Europe with one or two pleats in USA flat front),slender lapels.

  2. That tweed topcoat is ne plus ultra.

  3. Yes, there’s a hole in my closet and I was thinking I need a tweed overcoat for next winter. This winter I posted about that RL double-breasted herringbone, which I never found, but this one here looks enticing as well.

  4. Invest in a nice Balmacaan, like the one shown. And be sure to thank the Scots!

  5. Charlottesville | April 11, 2017 at 3:15 pm |

    Thanks, Carmelo and Christian. The fellow with the hat, pipe and and white mustache looks quite nice, but I might be prejudiced by our local affection for William Faulkner. The pinstriped Phi Beta at the far left looks good as well, as does the man in the overcoat. I’m struck by the high roll of the lapels on these. I don’t think this was limited to “Main Street” clothiers, but was often part of the heyday look. The shirt collars don’t appear to be BD, but it’s hard to tell; certainly not much roll to them. Black shoes worn with grey flannels and a brown sport coat look odd to my eyes (as does everything else on that guy), but I have seen the combination in 30’s era Esquire illustrations, so I suppose it was not unheard of. All in all, while the Worsted Tex look might not be perfect Ivy, it is still leagues ahead of what I see on Main Street or campus today.

  6. Yeah, the lapel roll is really noticeable on those jackets. That overcoat really is nice.

  7. Great pics. I love the combination of brown and grey in various shades. I would disagree, however, with your comment about the gent with the “orphaned suit coat” being the worst dressed. Pulling off an orphaned suit coat, in my opinion, is the essence of nonchalant dressing.

  8. Re: man in the middle

    Yes, but look at the way those trouser cuffs hang…perfection!

  9. Agreed. Perfect cuffs with a shivering break.

  10. “Ivy League” was a registered trademark?

  11. CC

    Bite the bullet. Have the tweed db overcoat made for you. It will keep you warm throughout the winters of the rest of your life. If you do decide to have the coat made, please have pick out a unique lining. You know you only live once.

  12. Houghton M | April 12, 2017 at 2:31 am |

    Awful shoes 🙂

  13. Houghton M | April 12, 2017 at 2:42 am |

    Correction 🙁

  14. JJ Rexford | April 12, 2017 at 2:44 am |

    Re: “Ivy League” as a trademark:

    This may be of interest:


  15. I think most of the jackets I wore in my college years were browns. Of course, I admit my pedigree wasn’t the same as many of the men at Princeton. As to the striped jacket, I don’t think at the time that anyone saw that as an orphaned suit jacket as some apparently do now. A striped jacket was seen as very youthful Ivy as well as continental inspired in the 50’s. I think that man in the middle was the showcase of this ad when it was created, but like many things, is seen much differently with contemporary perspective.

  16. Jerry
    You might be onto something about “continental inspired”, check out the slant of the breast pocket.

  17. Charlottesville | April 12, 2017 at 10:03 am |

    Regarding the brown sport coat, to my eye it looks like a chalk stripe, which I associate with suits although, as Jerry pointed out, it may have been standard sport coat material in the 50s. But it may be a herringbone tweed with an overstripe. I have a couple of those, and the Irish tweed sport coat in broken herringbone with a vertical stripe was something of a trademark look for J. Press, well into the 2000s, and may be available still. My other striped herringbone was an eBay find from Brooks, and looks like it may be from the 60s, but it is difficult to tell. I agree that the cuff-no-break pants look great. For more on striped coats, Christian had a post about them not log ago:

    http://www.ivy-style.com/vertical-integration-an-ode-to-the-striped-sportcoat.html .

  18. Wow, those lapels. Frankly I’m not sure if they’re intended to be 3/2 or three functional buttons.

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