Since I started working at The Andover Shop several months ago, every day has been a “party”,” in 90-year-old owner Charlie Davidson’s words.
After noticing that forward pleats seem to be making a comeback, I figured I’d give them a try. Most of the customers at The Andover Shop opt for them when commissioning suits or bespoke trousers, so I figured why not. However, for a cleaner look, and to reduce the volume that the pleats create at the front of the trouser, I opted for single forward pleats, an Andover Shop signature, as opposed to the standard double pleats.
In mutual agreement between Charlie, his longtime assistant Larry, and myself, I elected to go with a more modern (slim) cut for my trousers. I wanted them to be as far away from the baggy, reverse-pleated trousers my father wore in the ’90s. Additionally, I chose a button fly, rear suspender tabs, side adjusters, and a rounded hook-and-eye closure — the usual details I get on all of my trousers.
As far as fabric goes, I chose an eight-ounce charcoal flannel from Zanella, as I tend to run hot. I was pretty reluctant about wearing pleats at all before I had these trousers made, but now I’m considering getting forward pleats in the same cut on the next suit that I have made.
After wearing the trousers to work for the first time the other day, Charlie looked at my trousers and said, “You finally feel like a man in those, don’t you?” — AL CASTIEL III