This weekend I attended Designer Forum New York, a menswear trade show sponsored by the Custom Tailors and Designers Association, the oldest trade organization in the US. The event allowed me to finally meet two cyber-colleagues in person: Ivy-Style contributor Zachary DeLuca and author G. Bruce Boyer. Meanwhile, the clothes on display (such as the above ties by R. Hanauer), included some bright preppy garb and licensed collegiate stuff.
Ivy-Style contributor Zach DeLuca was down from Cambridge for his second fitting of a custom suit. He’s promised a full report when it’s done. He stopped by the show on Saturday; it was his first time at a menswear trade event. “I’ve never had so many straight guys look me over,” he said.
DeLuca was dressed in a vintage charcoal suit from Richman Brothers — three-button with natural shoulder, hooked vent, et cetera — a blue buttondown, wingtips, and vintage tie from Langrock:
Amid all the sartorialists doing the quadruple lutz (patterned jacket, shirt, tie and pocket square), DeLuca and I — both in charcoal gray, rep ties and solid oxford shirts — looked like agents from the health department inspecting the lunch spread.
Bills Khakis was there, along with several preppy lines from the South, including Southern Proper, a menswear collection started by two young ladies. This look was theirs:
Along with these bow ties, including emblematics with cigars and bourbon:
Peter Millar showed these colorful wool scarves made from necktie material:
Next winter, Vineyard Vines will bring out flannel trousers embroidered with mistletoe and Santas clinging to anchors:
They will also introduce shetland crewnecks and an unstructured flannel sportcoat with 3/2 roll and patch pockets, a sign that the menswear market is increasing its tradly offerings.
Vineyard Vines’ inspiration board was called “Head of the Charles” and was very vintage collegiate:
There were two companies that hold apparel and accessories licenses for major universities. Pennington and Bailes showed collegiate critter pants, promising the Ivy colleges soon:
Smathers & Branson specializes in needlepoint belts and accessories, and also hold licenses for many colleges. The Ivies agreed to belts and keychains, but not flasks:
At the Holland & Sherry booth, the company president showed us fabrics including a $5,000-per-yard vicuna, which means for a custom suit you’re looking at $20K just in materials.
Here we are. I think I may look slightly better in black and white. — CHRISTIAN CHENSVOLD