“Oxfords are beloved as a super-safe wardrobe staple. Their silhouettes tend to be unfussy. And at their most classic, the shirts are finished with a button-down collar (a style known as the Oxford Cloth Button Down, or OCBD). So preppy are these garments, they conjure images of 1950s Ivy League students sipping Cape Codders and ignoring their exams.”
Yes indeed, and that’s why we love the Oxford Cloth Button Down. It is a classic, timeless clothing item that never goes out of style. The article goes on to describe current “trends” such as the contrast collar, the camp collar, and – gasp – no collar at all. Yikes, we surely don’t need that.
The Official Preppy Handbook rightfully describes the importance of the OCBD and the collar:
“The classic shirt is the Brooks Brothers button-down all cotton oxford cloth shirt. Pink is the most famous color, and it is widely supposed that no one except Brooks has ever been able to achieve that perfect pink or that perfect roll to the collar.”
As stated in the Preppy Handbook, one should have the OCBD in blue, white, pink, and yellow. An illustration in the Preppy Handbook features the classic OCBD from Brooks Brothers and also shows the J. Press pocket with flap, which is a variation preferred by some preppies. Brooks Brothers, J. Press, The Andover Shop, Mercer & Sons, and O’Connell’s all offer classic Oxford Cloth Button Down shirts and Polo Ralph Lauren has a nice version too.
At the risk of being overly pedantic, the illustration pictured in the Official Preppy Handbook could not have been a Brooks Brothers Oxford shirt as their shirtings did not feature the seven-button placket until nearly a decade after the original publication of the book (making the switch roughly around 1990 or so after moving production to Garland, North Carolna). The shirt illustration must have been just a generic illustration rather than a rendering of the Brooks Brothers Oxford, which like the shirts produced by Mercer and Sons today, had a six-button placket at the time.
At the risk of being overly pedantic, the illustration pictured in the Official Preppy Handbook could not have been a Brooks Brothers Oxford shirt as their shirtings did not feature the seven-button placket until nearly a decade after the original publication of the book (making the switch roughly around 1990 or so after moving production to Garland, North Carolna). The shirt illustration must have been just a generic illustration rather than a rendering of the Brooks Brothers Oxford, which like the shirts produced by Mercer and Sons today, had a six-button placket at the time.
TRIGGER WARNING: MILD FABRIC-BASED PROFANITY!!
I have to put in a plug for LLBean OCBDs: traditional full fit, proper neck/sleeve sizing, full collar roll, great price, good longevity….but they’re NON-IRON.
FWIW, I’m fairly sensitive to stiff fabrics, and I have no trouble with them. Plus, as a lazy retired bachelor I appreciate a shirt that can go from a rumpled pile to a wrinkle free state in five minutes.
In a non-iron that hopefully will wash out over time, the Dillard’s top brand is nice. Locker loop, not a tiny collar, etc. Don’t own any but they look nice, just thinking of the support for LL Bean non iron.
White- Required
Solid Blue- Much less frequently
Solid Pink- No
Yellow- Never
Blue/White U-Stripe- Almost Daily
Pink/White U-Stripe- Occasional Necessity
What did a solid pink or yellow oxford shirt ever do to you? 🙂
I wear mine almost as often as any other color.
And just to really shake things up, I’ll also put a good word in for green: It’s probably the hardest to pair with ties and jackets, but on its own it’s a darn good look.
“I’ll die on this hill,” as they say in Internet-land.
Solid Pink – NO
NO?!!! The Brothers Brooks have been providing THE pink OCBD for more than a hundred years. And you don’t wear one?
I am sorry for you HB. I truly am.
Times, makers, and choices have changed a lot since the OPH. In addition to those recommended colors, stripes, ginghams, tattersalls, end on ends, and so on fit well, arguably better, in our increasingly hot and casual world. Although I will always love oxford cloth, my appreciation for broadcloth grows greater every day. I wear my shirts casually, often without buttoning the collar buttons. I prefer my linen shirts without button down collars. For the period from the mid 1950s through about 2019, retirement, all of my woven shirts other than the obligatory white for funerals and another for evening wear, had button down collars.
In 1980 I had no idea how to dress myself. A friend showed me the TOPH and after reading it ran out and bought my own copy. It taught me how to dress and to this day consult it, as needed. I once was lost, but now found the Handbook.
My comment may be heretical. I have not worn OCBDs for decades, but I love oxford cloth.
I even wear oxford pajamas. Hilditch and Key offers oxford in spread, cutaway, and their version
of button down- not much collar roll. Unfortunately, the availability of fabrics vary with the season.
My favorite shirts come in this cloth but in the cutaway model:
Almost all of my OCBDs are from Brooks Brothers, but I’ll also vouch for J. Crew’s “Giant Fit” oxford cloth button down. It’s a new-ish offering of theirs and they get all the details exactly right at a more entry-level price. Since it’s J. Crew, the collar roll won’t come close to the perfection you’ll see in, for example, a Mercer shirt, but if you need a near-perfect knockabout OCBD, I can’t say enough good about it. (They had a green one recently — very Miles Davis/Milestones.)
Kamakura ‘Vintage Ivy’ oxfords mimic the Troy Guild oxfords of a bygone, once-upon-a-time era, including details that are decidedly more Heyday collegiate/campus shop than Madison Ave.
Leave it to Japanese stylists and tailors to achieve authenticity by paying attention to the specs.
I recently acquired a Mercer & Sons (M&S) pink and white U-stripe OCBD. It fits very well. It’s a little too big at the small of my back, but I wear a jacket, so that’s our little secret. Better too loose than too tight. I’ve considered taking it to an alterations seamstress, but I think it’s best not to tamper with it. Maybe I could have tabs and buttons added on the side seems at just the right place to take up 1/2” in the waist on each side, and then steam-iron pleats into it like I did with my Army BDU?
While the OCBD is the Ivy staple, I am very interested in the M&S Tennis Collar. Maybe it’s time to branch out a little bit?
Pulled on a pink and white university OCBD (LL Bean) with an olive green poplin jacket, khakis, and penny loafers (with belt and mid-blue dress socks) for a visit to the dentist earlier this afternoon. Never knew I was so trendy (said completely tongue in cheek).
The Bean “no wrinkle” shirts soften with time. I’ve had several for a dozen years or more, and they are very comfortable at this point, breathe well, and still look crisp after a quick iron. But they look pretty darn good straight out of the dryer.
Press and Mercer items require a bit more time and care with the iron, but that activity has an enjoyable zen-like quality about it. In much the same way as loading and running the dishwasher after dinner each evening.
It’s currently 91 with a feels like of 98 in Austin. That’s a cool day down here for mid July. Nonetheless, I won’t wear one of my two oxfords until at least October.
Jake’s London also deserve a mention – their OCBDs (like those of Mercer and Sons) appear to be closely modelled on the iconic Brooks OCBDs of old, including the all-important, proper soft collar. Not to mention other classic old school features that so many other ivy retailers have dropped over the years.
Most of my OCBDs are from Mercer but today I am wearing a blue OCBD from Liberty Shirt Company with the J Press flap pocket. I have ordered several from Liberty and am impressed with fit and quality.
Some of the best options for OCBDs currently available are: Proper Cloth and Spier and Mackay.
At Proper Cloth you can buy a custom made OCBD for around $100 (you can choose unlined/unfused collar, mop buttons, etc.); at Spier and Mackay you can buy an OCBD for anywhere between $40 and $70 depending on whether there is a sale promotion, with all the “right” features such as a perfectly soft collar, producing the perfect collar roll, rounded cuffs, etc. They offer their shirts in various fits, mine favorite being the “contemporary” fit, which is a perfect modern fit without being too tight. They also have a more baggy “classic” fit.
All that being said, the above options are NOT “made in USA”. If you’re willing to pay between $140 and $200 for a made in America shirt, then J. Press and Brooks are your options.
Whiskeydent, I, too, am enjoying the break in the Austin heat but stick with linen, Madras, and gingham. I’ll put on a Mercer OCBD and a bowtie on Sunday. All Saints’ Episcopal is very well air conditioned. As Heinz-Ulrich expressed, the act of ironing is zen-like, as are other simple tasks of daily life.
The blue BB in the top photo looks pretty good with the chosen tie. The problem with solid colors other than white is tie matching. Solid blue is much better with khakis and a blazer than with a suit, other than a BB poplin.
99% of the dress shirts I see (out there) are point and/or spread collar’d. When I catch that (very) rare glimpse of an OCBD, it’s usually (more often than not) at an event a nearby college. The older professors and administrators.
Yankee preppies, Southern frat bros, and most other incarnations of modern-day “preppies” have opted for spread collars and 2-button darted blazers. En vogue for upper-middles. Sort of a less expensive take on Paul Stuart/updated traditional.
Which is to say: not much overlap between Old School Ivy and Preppy. Circles that overlap only a bit, every so often.
Ooops, no bowtie. Southwick blazer from O’Connell’s, white Mercer OCBD, khakis from OC, navy surcingle from Eliza B/Leather Man, navy merino Pantherellas, ancient BB Repp, navy with a red edge gold stripe, tied four in hand, and ancient BB white bucks. 1965 is still attainable. .
I have read some excellent stuff here. Definitely value bookmarking for revisiting. I wonder how much effort you put to make the sort of excellent informative website.
At the risk of being overly pedantic, the illustration pictured in the Official Preppy Handbook could not have been a Brooks Brothers Oxford shirt as their shirtings did not feature the seven-button placket until nearly a decade after the original publication of the book (making the switch roughly around 1990 or so after moving production to Garland, North Carolna). The shirt illustration must have been just a generic illustration rather than a rendering of the Brooks Brothers Oxford, which like the shirts produced by Mercer and Sons today, had a six-button placket at the time.
At the risk of being overly pedantic, the illustration pictured in the Official Preppy Handbook could not have been a Brooks Brothers Oxford shirt as their shirtings did not feature the seven-button placket until nearly a decade after the original publication of the book (making the switch roughly around 1990 or so after moving production to Garland, North Carolna). The shirt illustration must have been just a generic illustration rather than a rendering of the Brooks Brothers Oxford, which like the shirts produced by Mercer and Sons today, had a six-button placket at the time.
TRIGGER WARNING: MILD FABRIC-BASED PROFANITY!!
I have to put in a plug for LLBean OCBDs: traditional full fit, proper neck/sleeve sizing, full collar roll, great price, good longevity….but they’re NON-IRON.
FWIW, I’m fairly sensitive to stiff fabrics, and I have no trouble with them. Plus, as a lazy retired bachelor I appreciate a shirt that can go from a rumpled pile to a wrinkle free state in five minutes.
The non-iron aspect fades over time, but the value remains indefinitely. I think Bean is the best!
I do like the LL Bean OCBD as well. For the price, they are the best value in OCBDs.
In a non-iron that hopefully will wash out over time, the Dillard’s top brand is nice. Locker loop, not a tiny collar, etc. Don’t own any but they look nice, just thinking of the support for LL Bean non iron.
White- Required
Solid Blue- Much less frequently
Solid Pink- No
Yellow- Never
Blue/White U-Stripe- Almost Daily
Pink/White U-Stripe- Occasional Necessity
What did a solid pink or yellow oxford shirt ever do to you? 🙂
I wear mine almost as often as any other color.
And just to really shake things up, I’ll also put a good word in for green: It’s probably the hardest to pair with ties and jackets, but on its own it’s a darn good look.
“I’ll die on this hill,” as they say in Internet-land.
Solid Pink – NO
NO?!!! The Brothers Brooks have been providing THE pink OCBD for more than a hundred years. And you don’t wear one?
I am sorry for you HB. I truly am.
I prefer pink to white. Adds a dash of devil may care.
Just scored one pink and one blue uni stripe Ralph Lauren Polo at Goodwill, nearly new. Are you ready? 2 bucks each.
Hi,
There is a new J. Press/Buck Mason collab Made in USA collection that just “dropped” as the kids say.
I am interested in returning to writing. Previously, I did an interview with Bill from Bills Khakis and mentioned Buck Mason.
Email me.
Times, makers, and choices have changed a lot since the OPH. In addition to those recommended colors, stripes, ginghams, tattersalls, end on ends, and so on fit well, arguably better, in our increasingly hot and casual world. Although I will always love oxford cloth, my appreciation for broadcloth grows greater every day. I wear my shirts casually, often without buttoning the collar buttons. I prefer my linen shirts without button down collars. For the period from the mid 1950s through about 2019, retirement, all of my woven shirts other than the obligatory white for funerals and another for evening wear, had button down collars.
In 1980 I had no idea how to dress myself. A friend showed me the TOPH and after reading it ran out and bought my own copy. It taught me how to dress and to this day consult it, as needed. I once was lost, but now found the Handbook.
Long live the baggy, full-fit, must iron, heavy weight, tucked-in, ivy/trad/preppy OCBD, with a pulled tight four-in hand-knot.
My comment may be heretical. I have not worn OCBDs for decades, but I love oxford cloth.
I even wear oxford pajamas. Hilditch and Key offers oxford in spread, cutaway, and their version
of button down- not much collar roll. Unfortunately, the availability of fabrics vary with the season.
My favorite shirts come in this cloth but in the cutaway model:
https://www.hilditchandkey.co.uk/collections/all/products/contemporary-fit-concealed-button-down-collar-two-button-cuff-shirt-in-blue-oxford-cotton
Almost all of my OCBDs are from Brooks Brothers, but I’ll also vouch for J. Crew’s “Giant Fit” oxford cloth button down. It’s a new-ish offering of theirs and they get all the details exactly right at a more entry-level price. Since it’s J. Crew, the collar roll won’t come close to the perfection you’ll see in, for example, a Mercer shirt, but if you need a near-perfect knockabout OCBD, I can’t say enough good about it. (They had a green one recently — very Miles Davis/Milestones.)
Kamakura ‘Vintage Ivy’ oxfords mimic the Troy Guild oxfords of a bygone, once-upon-a-time era, including details that are decidedly more Heyday collegiate/campus shop than Madison Ave.
Leave it to Japanese stylists and tailors to achieve authenticity by paying attention to the specs.
I recently acquired a Mercer & Sons (M&S) pink and white U-stripe OCBD. It fits very well. It’s a little too big at the small of my back, but I wear a jacket, so that’s our little secret. Better too loose than too tight. I’ve considered taking it to an alterations seamstress, but I think it’s best not to tamper with it. Maybe I could have tabs and buttons added on the side seems at just the right place to take up 1/2” in the waist on each side, and then steam-iron pleats into it like I did with my Army BDU?
While the OCBD is the Ivy staple, I am very interested in the M&S Tennis Collar. Maybe it’s time to branch out a little bit?
Pulled on a pink and white university OCBD (LL Bean) with an olive green poplin jacket, khakis, and penny loafers (with belt and mid-blue dress socks) for a visit to the dentist earlier this afternoon. Never knew I was so trendy (said completely tongue in cheek).
The Bean “no wrinkle” shirts soften with time. I’ve had several for a dozen years or more, and they are very comfortable at this point, breathe well, and still look crisp after a quick iron. But they look pretty darn good straight out of the dryer.
Press and Mercer items require a bit more time and care with the iron, but that activity has an enjoyable zen-like quality about it. In much the same way as loading and running the dishwasher after dinner each evening.
Mom always said I was easily entertained.
Kind Regards,
H-U
I’ve become addicted to the J. Press pocket flap. Nothing else will do now…
It’s currently 91 with a feels like of 98 in Austin. That’s a cool day down here for mid July. Nonetheless, I won’t wear one of my two oxfords until at least October.
Jake’s London also deserve a mention – their OCBDs (like those of Mercer and Sons) appear to be closely modelled on the iconic Brooks OCBDs of old, including the all-important, proper soft collar. Not to mention other classic old school features that so many other ivy retailers have dropped over the years.
Most of my OCBDs are from Mercer but today I am wearing a blue OCBD from Liberty Shirt Company with the J Press flap pocket. I have ordered several from Liberty and am impressed with fit and quality.
Some of the best options for OCBDs currently available are: Proper Cloth and Spier and Mackay.
At Proper Cloth you can buy a custom made OCBD for around $100 (you can choose unlined/unfused collar, mop buttons, etc.); at Spier and Mackay you can buy an OCBD for anywhere between $40 and $70 depending on whether there is a sale promotion, with all the “right” features such as a perfectly soft collar, producing the perfect collar roll, rounded cuffs, etc. They offer their shirts in various fits, mine favorite being the “contemporary” fit, which is a perfect modern fit without being too tight. They also have a more baggy “classic” fit.
All that being said, the above options are NOT “made in USA”. If you’re willing to pay between $140 and $200 for a made in America shirt, then J. Press and Brooks are your options.
Whiskeydent, I, too, am enjoying the break in the Austin heat but stick with linen, Madras, and gingham. I’ll put on a Mercer OCBD and a bowtie on Sunday. All Saints’ Episcopal is very well air conditioned. As Heinz-Ulrich expressed, the act of ironing is zen-like, as are other simple tasks of daily life.
The blue BB in the top photo looks pretty good with the chosen tie. The problem with solid colors other than white is tie matching. Solid blue is much better with khakis and a blazer than with a suit, other than a BB poplin.
99% of the dress shirts I see (out there) are point and/or spread collar’d. When I catch that (very) rare glimpse of an OCBD, it’s usually (more often than not) at an event a nearby college. The older professors and administrators.
Yankee preppies, Southern frat bros, and most other incarnations of modern-day “preppies” have opted for spread collars and 2-button darted blazers. En vogue for upper-middles. Sort of a less expensive take on Paul Stuart/updated traditional.
Which is to say: not much overlap between Old School Ivy and Preppy. Circles that overlap only a bit, every so often.
Ooops, no bowtie. Southwick blazer from O’Connell’s, white Mercer OCBD, khakis from OC, navy surcingle from Eliza B/Leather Man, navy merino Pantherellas, ancient BB Repp, navy with a red edge gold stripe, tied four in hand, and ancient BB white bucks. 1965 is still attainable. .
I have read some excellent stuff here. Definitely value bookmarking for revisiting. I wonder how much effort you put to make the sort of excellent informative website.