One of the advantages to collecting vintage madras is that it provides the opportunity to compare the idiosyncrasies of this unique fabric. Just as no two bolts of madras are completely alike, no two madras jackets are alike.
As a counterpoint to the in-depth historical analysis of Christopher Sharp and the poignant madras-heyday memoirs of Richard Press, I’d like to showcase a few fine “survivors” (to borrow Mr. Press’ term) from my stock to show precisely what those great old advertisements were on about.
First up is a near-deadstock beauty from Langrock, Princeton’s premier campus shop, circa late 1960s or very early 1970s:
Though is has all the hallmarks of Ivy League tailoring, including ultra-soft shoulders, structurally it is more akin to a normal sack sport coat than other earlier madras jackets, which were tailored in a much more unconstructed manner.
As you can see from the top image, the fabric is virtually unfaded. And while it possesses the irregularities in the weave that are a hallmark of hand-woven madras, the cloth from this era has a much softer, more linen-like hand than earlier examples of the fabric.
Now consider this jacket, which has survived in deadstock condition since the late 1950s. Authentic bleeding madras from The Kent Shop of Denver, Colorado, of all places. Not exactly what comes to mind as a hotbed of warm-weather attire, but it illustrates the widespread popularity of the cloth during its heyday.
The jacket is almost completely unstructured, with zero shoulder padding and minimal lining:
Note the absence of felt behind the collar, which has been attached to the body of the jacket by hand:
What is most striking about this piece, however, is the shoulder, which seems almost Italian in its construction. Though there is absolutely no padding, there is a very subtle roping at the sleeve head and some slight puckering at the sleeve cap that is consistent with Italian spalla camicia construction:
But lest this last detail calls into question the coat’s Ivy League pedigree (very old Brooks Brothers jackets have a similar detail at the sleevehead), let the jacket’s lapped back seam and hooked vent reassure you:
In closing, I will not attempt to surpass Mr. Press’s eloquent call-to-arms for a renaissance of authentic tailored madras. I will say only this: Designers, please take note. — ZACHARY DELUCA