Nick Hilton just sent over photos of the new Norman Hilton sportcoats we posted about recently. Made in the US, they will be priced at $695-$795, or about the same as last time around. They are scheduled to arrive in Hilton’s Princeton shop in the next few weeks. — CC
19 Comments on "Norm! Fall 2014 Norman Hilton Sportcoats"
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Am I correct that some models are 2-button darted and others 3/2 sacks?
I recall their all being 3/2s last time around, but perhaps I’m mistaken.
These are supposed to be Ivy-cut? Even looking at them is uncomfortable.
I see no sack.
It look like nos. 1, 7 and 8 are 3/2 sacks, as even in the good old days, the Hilton 3/2 sack Hampton model had some body tapering. Two problems with these though. Either the sleeves on these jackets are very long or the coat bodies are very short. I suspect the latter. Second, the prices make me doubt that they are fully canvassed.
It’s possible they have been pinned for photographic purposes. I remember the previous batch having some shaping, but not much:
Curmudgeons and reactionaries may be having a subconscious negative reaction to the presence of standard collars and satin ties.
Assuming they’re made at the same place, canvassing is addressed here:
I’ll try and find out more from Nick.
I think that the ones with a ticket pocket are 2-button and the others are all 3/2.
Yes, they were probably pinned to make the waist suppression even more obvious. If they’d been authentic straight-side sacks, the pinning would have created creases.
Why such high gorges? That’s more of an Italian thing, isn’t it?
If the gorge were any higher, it would be at the shoulder seam.
Why such high gorges? Apparently, this is a requirement, now.
The only possible reason for moving the gorges so high is to prevent boutonnieres from being crushed by shoulder belts when driving.
I think they’re beautiful coats. Personally, I don’t mind the high gorge and I love the high button stance, suggesting a functional third button. I actually prefer the formality it gives the coat as, by contrast, with the look of the vestigial tip-over third button on a two button silhouette jacket. By the way, O’Connell’s website shows a number of coats with some shaping.
But, for those who want to look like Henry Stimson, I understand the objection. It’s that uncompromising approach to purity: “Gentlemen do not read other peoples’ mail.” . . . “A man’s coat does not having shaping.” . . . “Ever!”
Sorry, “have” not “having.”
O’Connell’s website does have jackets with suppressed waists;
my wardrobe does not.
I wonder what Charlie Davidson thinks about “shaped” waists on sportcoats.
Andover Shop jacket with similarly high gorges:
Looks quite a bit like these Hilton jackets except for the lapels.
Old Langrock was right.
In the 80s my Hampton model Hiltons had shaping,
maybe even darts, if I remember correctly. However,
they were truly natural shoulder.