If you are a member of the Facebook Group (and if you are not, you should be) then you know Evan Everhart. If you have posted, you definitely know Evan. There are various iterations. The definitive Ivy Expert (we write each other a lot, and I tell him all the time he has forgotten more Ivy than I know). The Purist (ironic, if you ask me, since he has a welcoming mind about the evolution of Ivy). The Coach. The Intolerant. The Tolerant. But mostly, The Gentleman.
Pablo Picasso once said, “Know the rules like a pro so you can break them like an artist.” Everhart doesn’t break any of the rules, ever, but his mastery of Ivy allows others, including me, to.
I mentioned we write each other often. When I decided to profile him, I asked if it was okay if I just quoted him from our talks since I kind of knew the answers to all of the interview questions anyway. He readily agreed. To get started then, I randomly scrolled to see if something interesting would pop up. This is the first random selection:
I was just thinking that I’d finally gotten a set of evening tails and I wonder now if I’ll ever have a chance to wear them. I hope so, but doubt it….. Of course all of my detachable collar shirts have gone missing too, to my endless ire and chagrin. I had a few of them….I have one evening shirt for that, but its for Cravat Noir only, it has a finely pleated breast and French Cuffs, and not a solid one with single cuffs which would be appropriate for Cravat Blanc.
My shirt collection would shock many. Its in the high hundreds maybe low 4 digits. I’ve never counted. Semi spread with French cuffs, Winchester shirts, tab collars, Clubbed collars, Western shirts, endless point and button down collars in fabrics of all descriptions, spear point collars, many bespoke and custom shirts. Ivys the dna and the touchstone and home always returned to, and usually worn, but its descendants are present, at least in shirts.
Or here, Evan telling me about the clothes he wore for the picture here. You would think that a man this into his clothes would be a frequent poster and camera-ready at all times. To the contrary, Everhart is photographically shy, and it took me more than a few minutes to get this outfit out of him. Everhart is more of a teacher and curator than a model, and reading about what he is wearing is as interesting as looking at it:
Coat is Southwick MTM from Nordstrom, trousers are WWII us army khakis, hosiery are wool crew from Sid Mashburn, shoes are Alden full strap pennies in tan Scotch grain, shirt is vtg BB, tie is Grandfather’s Ray Hammond of New Haven Ct., ancient madder. Pocket scarf is foulard silk folded by my Father and unmoved in about 20 years. Glasses are Muse, watch and ring and tie clip are gold and Grandfather’s. My Father picked the fabric and buttons and lining for that coat, and its cut. It was a gift for me.
You read that right. The pocket scarf has been preserved in the jacket for 20 years. I admired that, and told him so.
Yay! Im really pleased you like my Miss Havishamesque maintenance of the folds which my Father put into this scarf for me.
Post something preppy in the Ivy group (I’ve noticed Everhart softening towards the prep lately, I have to ask him about that) or better yet, post an outfit you think is nice but isn’t Ivy, and Everhart will let you know about it. Like Howard Stern, the edges have been rounded over the years and he is the first to admit it. But he is still firm, Ivy is Ivy and then there is everything else. He doesn’t pull punches, and over the years has told me at least half a dozen times to get my hair cut. But get him talking about his family, who raised him Ivy (he claims not to know it was Ivy at the time but I think he is lying, Everhart was born knowing Ivy), and Evan immediately softens. He is wistful about his grandfather, and matter of fact about the story of his own father’s shooting and subsequent abandoning of his family. Evan dresses like he was born American Royalty, but he remembers a time when shoes were a luxury, and he vows, “I will never be poor again.” But that history gives him a real sympathy for those starting out.
Recently Evan has been ill, and is recovering now, taking a look at his choices. I am begging him to go into the business (Ivy) somehow, but he is wisely circumspect. Everhart cherishes the style so much he is not sure he wants to monetize his love. But I am still pushing. Last year, to answer questions from people who were just getting started with Ivy, he wrote this post:
To answer a question posted earlier in a “What to Buy”, basic format for those interested, the following is a complete Ivy Style Capsule Wardrobe, including price ranges.
1 Navy hopsack woolen sack cut blazer1 Gray herringbone tweed sack cut sport coat1 Checked sack cut sport coat in brown or olive Shetland or lambs wool $15 to $ 200 (for all coats)1 Lovatt Green or brown crew neck saddle shoulder Shetland sweater $15 to $651 White OCBD pinpoint or regular $8 to $401 Blue OCBD pinpoint or regular $8 to $401 University striped blue & white OCBD $8 to $401 Pink OCBD pinpoint or regular $8 to $401 Navy blue polo shirt $5 to $351 Red or White polo shirt $5 to $351 Pair Khaki cotton drill trousers $5 to $451 Pair mid gray worsted wool trousers $5 to $2501 Pair Charcoal gray flannel trousers $5 to $2501 Pair Olive or Brown corduroy trousers $5 to $2002 to 5 Pairs Navy woolen or cotton over the calf hosiery $20 to $1001 Blue woolen surcingle belt $3 to $501 Brown braided leather belt $5 to $401 Pair penny loafers $10 to $2001 Pair tassel loafers $10 to $2001 Pair short wing Oxford brogues $10 to $2001 Pair White canvas sneakers $15 to $251 Navy or black silk knit tie $15 to $751 Navy Bar stripe silk rep tie $15 to $751 Navy ancient madder tie in neats or paisley $5 to $601 Package White linen handkerchieves $5 to $20.1 Balmaccan rain coat $15 to $551 tweed flat cap, 8 panel cap, hat, or fur felt trilby hat $5 to $200