It’s overcoat season, and while extra bulk might give you the illusion of being warmer, it also takes away style points.
At least according to this vintage advertisement from Hickey Freeman. While our previous two posts on the newly digitized Hartmarx archives highlighted images of the Hart, Schaffner & Marx brand, this one is from Hickey Freeman, and advocates “comfort and natural lines” with “lapels narrow to emphasize smartness.” Finally, “shoulders are normal,” because abnormal shoulders are so last year.
Hartmarx could not provide a date for the image, but it looks like 1950-55, when menswear began moving away from the big shoulders and drapey double-breasteds of the late ’40s and toward the clean lines and natural shoulders that reigned during the heyday of the Ivy League Look.
Take a look at your own overcoat, as the principle still applies. Are you a man of today? — CC