News broke today that the brothers behind Ovadia & Sons have inked a deal with J. Press.
The alarmist headline above was in jest, of course. While initial news on Twitter was that they were appointed creative directors, GQ says they are merely designing a special collection.
“Our line will have a really cool, young attitude to it,” Ariel and Shimon told GQ. “Very collegiate, but not stuffy. And all the fits will be slimmed down, and cater to the modern guy.”
It’s a smart move, I think, for J. Press, which from 1902-1967 catered significantly, if not predominantly, to young men, but which since the fall of the Ivy heyday has watched its clientele get older and older. — CC
Smart move for the company, as long as they remain faithful to those of us who still want what they have always offered and do not end up as has BB’s!!! The words “updated classic” is an oxymoron, so leave this to BB’s.
I don’t think J Press could have picked anyone better to collaborate with.
Something that seems interesting though, is every time I see something written about “modern” updated menswear, they always mention “slimmed down.” Yet every night on the news, we hear about the obesity problems in the country. So is their target market getting reduced while the waistlines are getting bigger?
Ariel and Shimion???? What is this, the Little Mermaid collection? Oy vey.
The only thing I see “slimmed down” on this pair is hairlines.
I figure that the “modern guy” isn’t necessarily obese, he just has enough “extra” weight that he looks better in clothes that are a little slimmer, and he finds that pants with a lower rise are more comfortable.
Fine. Whatever. News.
Here’s the thing: why does this matter? There’s old news:
Izzy at LS Men’s Clothing uses a variety of cut-and-sew operations, including but not limited to H. Freeman, Southwick, and Giliberto. Transparency regarding makers is a fact.
For the Trad/Ivy enthusiasts, there’s no reason to go elsewhere. Is there? Southwick A-range fabric blazers and jackets start a bit over $500, and A- range suits begin at roughly $750. This made-to-measure, not–repeat, not–off-the-rack. Douglas model, or Cambridge. Or go with the unconstructed Miles but with the center hook.
Izzy has a lot of house cloth, and lots and lots of cloth books, including the better English cloth houses (Minnis, Smith, and all the Jodek goods including Lesser and Halstead). W. Bill Tweeds? No problem. Izzy works with the Isles Textiles folks.
Giliberto makes an amazing circa-’63 Ivy League jacket, and Izzy’s pant maker can do anything.
So, while I understand news is news in Tradsville and new news is there for reporting, there is a last word already spoken if one wants a high quality MTM jacket, pant, or suit.
Oh yes, Izzy also works with Individualized Shirts and Gitman Bros. The former can and will replicate the classic Brooks OCBD (unlined collar and cuff); there are at least five different weights/weaves of Oxford cloth from which to choose, and I think the starting price is under $75.
So, yes, new news is news. Press works with another creative director and/or designer. Okay. Fine.
But if one wants high quality kit at a fair price, old news is the best news.
“The former can and will replicate the classic Brooks OCBD (unlined collar and cuff)”
Truly hard to believe. I have yet to see anybody who could do that.
“Our line will have a really cool, young attitude to it. . .”
Believe. For an enviable roll, I recommend going with a 4″ collar and adjusting the buttons.
I just don’t get the whole creative director thing. I mean, I know designers gotta make a living, but if you know what you want in terms of cut and cloth, what’s the point?
Actually, Individualized made shirts for Brooks for many years.
“And all the fits will be slimmed down, and cater to the modern guy.”
tired of this. im modern, im 23. its harder and harder to find real pants.
A glance at what men on college campuses were actually wearing in, say, 1965–okay, yes, one sees jackets that seem to feature a shoulder that’s more, for lack of a better word, natural. Rounder, even if the point-to-point doesn’t look terribly narrow.
But there’s little evidence (I’m looking at the ’65 W&L Calyx) of the kind of excessively tapered slim-fitness and über-narrow lapels that the present era of urban hipsters wish to market as vintage and authentic. I see plenty of jackets that look plenty full (and comfy) through the chest and waist, with at least 3″ lapels.
There’s a lot mythology remaining.
Why can’t they just make exact replicas of real clothing from, say, 1965?
Don’t they have tape measures?
Nick Hilton did precisely that. His tailor replicated a 1963 Norman Hilton Hampton model jacket. He is using a new/different tailor beginning this spring-summer. I haven’t seen anything like this cut/fit/tailoring anywhere, especially in that price range. Scottish tweeds and three and four ply worsteds. Good stuff.
The old “slimmed down” for the “modern man” trick. Today’s man is significantly fatter and flabbier than the youthful J.Press customer of the 50s. Who falls for this? Evidently, the current owners of J.Press, or they think their customers will.
Based on the quantity of the cremiux stuff I’ve seen at past warehouse sales, press customers aren’t jumping at this stuff and it isn’t attracting a significant new consumer base. Why do they keep beating this dead horse over and over? You know what they say the sign of insanity is…
Those Guys, Guys?, should stick to tradition. Know what I mean, if it’s not broke, then don’t try and fix it. Simple, like Christian’s raillery.