Recently menswear historian G. Bruce Boyer was asked to collaborate on a shirt collection with an Italian brand named Marol. The results are now available. The shirt collars are all semi-spread — they’re also priced way, way beyond the budget of most trads. But as Bruce is an old pal of Ivy Style who’s written extensively on the heyday, I figured you’d enjoy having a gander at the outfits he modeled. There’s also a video. — CC
I’d be curious to know what the retail price of these will be. G. Bruce Boyer’s old dictum to buy the best you can afford is interesting within the context of the disruption that retail clothes manufacturers are going through. The shirts look great, btw. It’s hard to find a good quality, classic, tattersall.
The shirts do look lovely. I’m a fan of the semi-spread collar. The real question, however: WHO is Mr. Boyer’s tailor? I have rarely seen such a balanced coat—one that’s both trim and accommodating. Any reconnaissance on this issue would be greatly appreciated, Christian.
Bravissimo. Elegante.
Those are beautiful shirts. Mr Boyer dresses the
way I do on a good day: textures and patterns in
harmony. For a more cheaper and undoubtedly
lower quality than the tattersalls he shows, I can
recommend Cordings brushed cotton. I have a couple.
They run full, which is no problem for me, and the
collars set perfectly on me – high and spread.
https://www.cordings.co.uk/chestnut-navy-small-tattersall-shirt.html
I’ve found that almost all the extravagant pieces I’ve bought over the years have spent precious little time out of the wardrobe. They were so fine that they were given an airing at only the most special of events. So were I to buy a Marol shirt – Mr Boyer’s say-so was always good enough for me – I know I’d hardly ever wear it. And that, dear hearts, would be an unforgivable sartorial sin.
Lovely color and pattern combos, as usual.
By “designed” what was actually unique here? Not to sound like I’m being overly critical, but it looks like 10 shirts I have in my closet already.
If you visit the Marol site, you can find more photos of Mr. Boyer modelling the collection. A particularly nice one:
http://www.marol.it/img/town/town-bellissima-03.jpg
I’d like to know more about the sportcoat Mr. Boyer wears in the photos with the tattersall shirt. There was something similar at Ralph Lauren this season and I’m now wishing I’d bought it.
I have a suspicion that many followers of this blog are not Ivy purists and don’t feel obliged to stick to an orthodox Ivy costume, but rather lean toward an Anglo-American synthesis of Ivy and British country-gentleman style. Mr. Boyer goes one step further and incorporates Italian elements in his eclectic personal style.
Allow me to add my enquiry to those of Messrs. Owen and Twardzik: I too would be interested in learning more about Mr. Boyer’s sportcoat.
And …what if the quintessence of nice Dressing would be a Synthesis of Ivy/British and Italian style?
Maybe with a little bit of parisian fantasy?
Heaven?
Just have a look at Drake’s for example…
Is there some trad provenance of wearing your necktie in a disheveled manner with the skinny tail hanging beside the front rather than behind? The only gentlemen I’ve typically seen doing that are young bankers eager to show you the otherwise hidden designer label (typically Hermes or Ferragamo). Boyer certainly has nothing to prove to anyone, so I am pausing to wonder if I am unaware of some other origin of that affectation.
Jerry,
Just my observation, here, but my sense is that most of the older school guys that I know favor the “tight, dimpled, knot” as Richard Press once said. Looking relaxed and effortless doesn’t necessarily mean looking sloppy. Although I will say that the line is often crossed. 🙂
Beautiful shirts – especially the country collection. Seems a pity to have to wait until fall to purchase. Thanks for bringing these to our attention!
Just chiming in on behalf of MAROL to answer a couple of questions:
Rake: the shirts are available now via pre-order. There is an email link at the bottom of the Boyer collection page.
Sport coat: Perhaps Bruce can offer more detail, but the coat he is wearing in these photos is bespoke from Cifonelli. The DB suit is Rubinacci.
Marol shirts are sold by neck measurement alone and so they wouldn’t interest me. I consider it too much trouble to buy a shirt and then have the sleeves shortened.
The disheveled tie look was made popular by Gianni Agnelli. He may or may not have learned it from someone else.
@Pedro Mendes,
Thank you – email sent.
RE: Robert
I understand your concerns, but I will say that since we are a bespoke maker at heart, different sleeve length is no problem. Since each shirt is made individually, we can adjust to your desired size.
As a man with a 15.5 neck and a 36 sleeve, I’m always happy to hear such things.
Reportedly the shirts will sell for around $580.
Lovely shirts, and great tie and coat combinations as well. I have a fair number of shirts with similar collars, and in fact am wearing one today (Brooks blue, end-on-end).
Roger Sack – Thanks for the recommendation of Cordings. I had not heard of the company, but enjoy wearing cotton flannel or Viyella Tattersall shirts with tweeds, and they are not so easy to find anymore.
Charlottesville, perhaps you can answer a question I have about Viyella.
The original Viyella was a blend of 55% wool/45% cotton, while the new material is 80% cotton/20% wool, or even 90/10. How comfortable is each blend over a range of temperatures?
Of course, if someone other than Charlottesville has experience with this, please feel free to chime in.
Henry — I have seen the 55/45 blend, but all of the ones I have are 80/20. The weights of lightweight brushed cotton and Viyella seem about the same to me, but I am sure they may vary from one manufacturer to another. Some of mine are from Brooks, and others from Orvis and Charles Tyrwhitt (the poor man’s Thomas Pink). All are at least 10 years old and have a semi-spread collar and single- or double-button barrel cuffs. The ones from Brooks are my favorites. Tyrwhitt used to come out with several new 80/20 Tattersall shirts each fall, but they no longer seem to carry them.
@Charlottesville:
Some Men’s Tattersall Shirt (non-wrinkle-resistant) providers are:
Mercer and Sons
Cordings
The House of Bruar
A Hume (Outfitters)
O’Connell’s:
Viyella Sport Shirt – Brown Blue Tattersall
Viyella Sport Shirt – Tattersall – Ivory with Olive Rust & Grey
Viyella Sport Shirt – Professor Plum Tattersall
Troy Guild Shirtmakers – Broadcloth Tattersall – Black Grey & Burgundy
William Powell
Alan Paine
Purdey
Orvis Country Twill Shirts
Barbour Tattersall
Ben Silver
Farlows Tattersall Check Cotton Shirt
Cotswold Country
James Purdey Tattersall Shirts
@Charlottesville:
Here are some Tattersall shirt sources:
Mercer and Sons
Cordings
The House of Bruar
A Hume (Outfitters)
O’Connell’s:
Viyella Sport Shirt – Brown Blue Tattersall
Viyella Sport Shirt – Tattersall – Ivory with Olive Rust & Grey
Viyella Sport Shirt – Professor Plum Tattersall
Troy Guild Shirtmakers – Broadcloth Tattersall – Black Grey & Burgundy
William Powell
Alan Paine
Purdey
Orvis Country Twill Shirts
Barbour Tattersall
Ben Silver
Farlows Tattersall Check Cotton Shirt
Cotswold Country
James Purdey Tattersall Shirts
What a great video! Mr. Bower’s combination of style, charm and insightful thinking is a delight. BMWG’s rule!*
BMWG = bald, middle aged white guys (pronounced “b-mwag)**
** I’m not sure when it started but nowadays everyone in America beyond their 30s but not yet laid out in a mortuary is described as “middle aged”.
Dylan — You have done your homework! Thanks for the list.
The shirts are $585; the sport jacket around five grand — they better look good. Far beyond any pay grade I ever aspired to.
I liked Mr. Boyer’s list of things that go together with good, comfortable clothing: manners, sense of humor, etc.,”in addition to knowing what you are talking about”! A sly wink to something, apprarently, that cannot be taken for granted.
I like the combinations on offer very much but would query their pricing for RTW garments. Why not go custom for the same or a lesser price and have a greater personal choice in fabrics and detailing?
Ah! On closer reading I see that the offerings are all custom. I approve!
Thank you, Charlottesville!
Perhaps one day we will have the privilege–and the pleasure–of seeing Mr. Boyer in a shirt with a buttondown collar.
@Old Trad
I’m sure you’re not the only one who’d be pleased to see Mr. Boyer in an OCBD.