The Longwing And Short Of It: Menswear Market Week Finale

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Here’s the remainder of what I saw this week. Apologies for the poor photo quality; everyone was complaining about the harsh lighting.

Above, the super-premium longwing from Nettleton, price $795, made in Belgium. Below, tassel loafer. Note French cord stitch on vamp:

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Tweed slippers from Res Ipsa, founded by two lawyers in Atlanta:

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The sprawling Barbour booth:

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Gloverall was also at the Javits Center:

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Its duffel coats are still made in England:

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A few looks from Southwick:

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The shirt and tie are pure Trump, but the suit is kind of “Mad Men”:

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Drake’s has had a booth the past two seasons. Lovely wool challis ties here:

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And these caught my eye immediately: grenadine and Donegal tweed fabric woven together. Tremendous character. Photographed on a pile of scarves:

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Continuing with ties, spring looks from R. Hanauer:

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The critter pants from Castaway are getting bigger and more vivid embroideries:

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Bright preppy stuff from Bird Dog Bay:

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And country gear from Dubarry Of Ireland:

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Madras belt from Southern Proper:

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Smell like a freshman with Truefitt & Hill:

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And finally, I always enjoy catching up with the enterprising accessories designer Edward Armah, who’s always cooking up something new. Recently he’s added fine umbrellas in all sorts of patterns, but his biggest orders have been for these two. Look closely and you’ll see why. (Hint, it’s an election year). Price $250. — CC

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27 Comments on "The Longwing And Short Of It: Menswear Market Week Finale"

  1. I can’t believe Nettleton is still surviving charging $800 for cow leather brogues (that aren’t even US made). The unearned bravado (and totally removed from reality pricing) is annoying.

  2. I’m possibly in the market for a new pair of tassels this spring, so I’m asking this in earnest. What justifies the cost of Nettleton shoes over something like Alden or Santoni, which run $300 or so less? I haven’t found any in depth reviews of the new Nettleton thus far and nobody in my neck of the woods stocks them. Is there something really extraordinary about the quality of their leather?

    More rhetorically, what justifies the cost of Castaway’s pants? I can’t conceive of paying $150 for theirs when I can get custom, American-made, embroidered pants from SSEW for under $100.

  3. Rick Woodward | January 28, 2016 at 5:15 pm |

    L-feld: I am with you on the price of the Nettletons. I don’t know why they are so expensive. If I were in the market for tassels right now, and I am not, I would look at the Allen Edmond’s featured on I-S on January 20. They look great to my eye and the price is right at $385. Let us know what you decide to do.

  4. What is SSEW? Those slippers are quite nice. Comfort is key there. I’m not thrilled with Peals but Del Toro are quite comfortable.

  5. I’m so sick of the Russell check. A tired pattern for tweed.

  6. @Christian

    Unrelated to anything. Have you ever considered a “Looking Great” section to Ivy Style. I just ran across some old copies of M Magazine in my attic.

    Will

  7. NaturalShoulder | January 28, 2016 at 9:16 pm |

    The first Southwick jacket looks mighty nice. I am not a fan of pebble grain anything and I wish Nettleton well, but $800 is quite steep.

  8. @sack

    Remember the mag but not that section. Is that reader photos?

  9. I would have loved to be in the Nettleton strategy meeting when someone said, “Wait, you realize that is more than Alden charges for shell, don’t you?”

    Because that moment had to happen… didn’t it?

    Anyway, I like their longwings. That is, the US-made pair that I bought on eBay for $20.

    I’m on the opposite end of S.E. for the plaid, though. That picture had me reaching for my wallet.

  10. Ward Wickers | January 29, 2016 at 7:58 am |

    I have no need for another pair of longwings (I have a pair in cordovan from P Stuart bought around 2000 that are still going strong). I am in need of a pair of beef roll penny loafers, though. Thinking maybe Rancourt custom..

  11. @Christian

    M Magazine would devote two or three pages in every edition of photos of women who looked great. I for one thoroughly enjoyed your post about women wearing weejuns on bicycles.

    Will

  12. As I was typing my last post, my local Brooks Brothers store left me a message that the new white oxford cloth button down I ordered just came in. Have many people bought, washed and worn their new shirt and how do you like it. I ask because I was rather disappointed in my recent purchase of M2 Bill’s Khakis until my wife washed them a couple of times. My Bill’s shrank more than a little and now look great. I am reluctant to purchase an oxford shirt for such a high price only to be disappointed later.

    Cheers,

    Will

  13. @Rick Woodward – I’ve tried the AE Grayson and it doesn’t work for my foot and the new AE tassel has too low of a vamp for my taste. I am hoping to try on some Aldens at a local store, though. I had a pair of LHS and they never really fit right, so I ended up selling them, but I understand that the Alden tassel loafer is built on a different last. I’ve also been trying various Italian and Spanish brands, but no true winners yet. I’m a tough fit with loafers, so finding a pair is always an order.

    @wianno85 – http://www.apparelbyssew.com/ You can pick any fabric available from http://www.robertkaufman.com and any embroidery design available on http://www.dakotacollectibles.com and they will make you all-over pants for about 80 to $100, depending on factors. They can even convert your own image into an embroidery pattern. They allow for all sorts of customization to the pattern. I get mine made with an extra 1.5″ in the rise.

  14. Christian,

    You should do a post spotlighting Bird Dog Bay. I own some of their ties & socks and really enjoy their offerings. It’s a nice company that sells well made items.

  15. There is a new old stock pair of Nettleton tassel loafers (made in the USA) – exact same style as the ones pictured here that they now charges $800+ for – on eBay for $189 in a size 9D…….just in case anyone’s in the market……

  16. Bracelet Boy | January 29, 2016 at 1:50 pm |

    Regarding Nettleton, people have a tendency to conflate price and value. You know those people who say, “you get what you pay for?” A marketing strategy to exploit their weakness is to charge more than one’s competitors. Let them buy the “best,” from you. It works for man-bracelets and it’ll work for Nettleton shoes.

  17. What are your feelings regarding man-anklets?

  18. sacksuit

    Any recommendations on cleaning coffee out of a keyboard?

  19. @sacksuit:

    I always have new oxfords, BB or Press, washed/ironed first before being worn. Have found them to be far more comfortable. Enjoy your newest purchase.

  20. @Andrew

    Coffee removal answer same as anklet wearing…bracelet wearing too for that matter.

    @Steve

    Let me get this right, you wash and iron your shirts before wearing…interesting concept. Also, BB oxford cloth too flimsy and did not purchase. I was curious to know if BB shirts shrank much after initial laundering in case I ever do buy one…on sale.

  21. Obviously wash everything before wearing. Yuck on wearing something fresh from the store.

  22. @sacksuit

    if I misinterpreted anything, my apologies. Have found little or no shrinkage after initial laundering BB shirts.

  23. great photos CC; thanks for sharing.

    @sacksuit I did not like the new OCBD’s from Brooks. Collar length was underwhelming and I didn’t like how small the buttons are. The cloth is thin and my blue had several picks in the fabric. Not worth the $250.

  24. “Florsheim Kenmore Imperial’s” for the wing tips. I’ve owned 6 pairs for almost 10 years and can only say positive things about them. They sell for around $225.00 on their website, but go for about $150.00-ish at their outlet stores.
    For the tassels, BB’s or Alden’s is my choice. Love them both!

  25. Bracelet Boy | January 30, 2016 at 1:07 pm |

    sacksuit, match your bracelet to your anklet.

  26. @Bracelet Boy

    If I ever decide to change teams, I will keep your advice in mind.

    Cheers,

    Will

  27. Worried Man | February 3, 2016 at 2:38 pm |

    Please allow me to voice my contempt for those loathsome Res Ipsa slippers that keep popping up everywhere. If they were confined to the house, that’s one thing, but I keep seeing them worn by guys in suits and the like. Stuff like that is what makes me hate the internet.

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