Last weekend I met G. Bruce Boyer at a menswear event and eagerly asked him what he thought of my new sportcoat. He stroked the fabric, examined the fit, and concluded that it looked great. “Very Princeton 1958,” he said. I can think of no better unofficial endorsement of Ivy Style’s first collaboration than praise from Mr. Boyer. Here’s how it all came about.
Earlier this year the London-based clothier Kent Wang approached Ivy Style about doing a project catering to the trad community. Well it has finally come to reality in the form of a tweed sportcoat that goes on sale today with a deadline of midnight, 11/21, to get your order in.
Every guy has different priorities and some are happy in a $10 tweed from the thrift store. What we’ve put together here is a jacket that hits a lot of Ivy checkboxes and is very good quality for a fair price. How fair? Just $495 for off-the-rack, and a mere $120 more — or $615 — for made to measure (which is what mine was):
The jacket is made in China from an 11-ounce rust-brown herringbone tweed from the Abraham Moon mill, weavers since 1837. In addition, the jacket features:
3/2 button stance
Undarted chest
Flapped patch hip pockets
Full canvas lining using a lightweight canvas material, sewn not fused
Soft shoulder
Single rear vent
Horn buttons
Viscose rayon lining
We wanted the lining to feel special, so we gave a nod to the go-to-hell linings that Chipp was famous for during the heyday, and chose this blue paisley:
The lapel rolls quite nicely:
Here’s the fit across the back of the neck and shoulders:
There’s only a tiny amount of lining in the shoulder and no shoulder head:
The sleeves come unfinished, so you can have your local tailor make them just the right length, and, for a bit more, have functional buttonholes made. The jacket will come with four buttons per cuff, but I opted for two buttons spaced apart, which was popular during the heyday.
Once again, you have until next Monday to get your order in. Orders are being handled by Aaron, Kent’s New York-based agent who grew up a Midwestern ’80s prep and who, as a vintage clothing dealer, has sold many Ivy jackets. The jacket requires a mere $50 deposit, with $445 due at time of delivery. Delivery by Christmas is possible if you get your order in immediately. Otherwise expect about six weeks.
For off-the-rack, the jacket is available in the following regular sizes:
As for MTM, you can book an appointment with Aaron in Kent Wang’s New York office. “For MTM outside New York,” Aaron says, “a trial jacket will be sent to you and photos of you wearing it will be evaluated. We can accommodate a very wide range of shapes and lengths in the 34-46 size range. Many other lapel widths, shoulder styles, pocket shapes, linings and even tweed fabrics are available.”
To place your order, send an email to mtm@kentwang.com with the subject heading “Trad Jacket.” Indicate your desired size or inquire about made-to-measure. You will then be invoiced for the deposit.
That should just about cover it. For general questions, Aaron will do his best to answer them in the comment section. For specific ones, it is best to email him at the address above.
To start giving you ideas on how the jacket can fit in your wardrobe, here I am with Bruce wearing charcoal trousers and brown tassel loafers, a pinned blue straight-collar shirt from Brooks Brothers, navy paisley pocket square from Ralph Lauren, and a chocolate brown grenadine tie from Paul Winston/Chipp 2. In the other photos, I’m wearing a Brooks buttondown and Lands’ End knit tie.
Thanks again to Kent for not only approaching Ivy Style but for actually making it happen. I think the jacket will be a great option for many of you. — CHRISTIAN CHENSVOLD
Top photos by Yoshio Itagaki.
So it’s made in China of English fabric? I can live with that, it’s a very nice sport coat with great details.
Hook vent?
Alas no, sir.
Length measurement is the total length of the jacket or just from the collar seam down?
Those look like bottom of collar numbers to me. Aaron will confirm.
Same question as FLW. If from bottom of collar, measurements appear on long side but, presumably, could be addressed via MTM.
Very nice.
Length on the size chart is full back length, from top of collar.
Absolutely gorgeous, Christian. If I had the money, I’d certainly purchase this jacket.
If this collaboration goes well, I hope you will bring us more opportunities to own some Ivy Style original clothing.
“Very Princeton 1958″ – Ha, come on…..
Really nice jacket, Christian, with great shoulders and a fair price for such high quality. I already have a very similar model from Press in my closet, but hope the collaboration goes well and leads to more offerings. Very best of luck.
@Seve
Try not to take it too literally.
Clearly this jacket, whilst quite dapper looking, is not made for those of us who may have represented our alma mater on the gridiron–or are simply built like someone that did. I haven’t worn a 34R since I was in the fourth grade!
Inquire about MTM.
London based, you say. Can this jacket, or something similar, be found in Europe?
I love it. I’ve submitted my order. Every detail is neato. I hope there isn’t a minimum number of orders you need to make this happen. I’m pleased I slipped in on the size front.
Well it can only be found here, but they’ll ship it anywhere.
Just ordered mine. You magnificent-bastard, you’ve outdone yourself.
What, exactly, is the canvassing made of? Horsehair?
If you go custom, GS, we’ll make yours from the blue hair of Women’s Studies Department students.
You have made me an offer which I cannot refuse.
You look fabulous in it, Christian.
Great looking jacket, Christian. Well done.
Thanks fellows for all the “jam on my toast,” as Boyer likes to say.
Are we limited to that lining material?
Knew that one was coming! MTM you can change it for sure; probably with OTR too. Just email Aaron.
Just placed my order and eagerly await the jacket. I hope the project proves to be a success and there will be others.
A great looking tweed indeed! Unfortunately, my pecuniary position is quite lacking, or else I’d have ordered one in a heartbeat. Now if those chinos were ever to be produced, an argument could be made to their indispensability…
Christian, I hope this isn’t a tall order, but perhaps you could make us a ‘lookbook’ of sorts with this jacket? Incorporate into a few different fits/settings from your illustrious wardrobe. It is already hard to resist, but I contend advertising it in the context of varying pant/shoe combos will make it more so!
Nice jacket, unusually close to the historical Ivy League style.
Christian, what is your height, weight and chest measurement?
Congrats Christian on this collaboration! This jacket really smells Ivy….
I hope that this is not the last proposal for Ivy clotheshorses,,,,
Have you ever tried one of the JKeydge Slackjackets?
I prefer the blue hair of the ladies that lunch at Le Perigord.
Why would the chest on the 44R be 43 inches?
VEA, you wouldn’t happen to be Clark “Aldrich” would you?
Suppressed waist or authentic sack with straight sides?
@VEA
Neither Mr. Boyer nor Mr. Chensvold needs any defense whatsoever.
Excellent jacket. I have a similar one from J Press, though I believe a little darker in hue. Thinking seriously about how to justify this one! Congrats on the collaboration. I hope to see more.
@Beverly Carlton hear, hear!
Excellent jacket, CC. Bravo! Hope to see more (in other styles that I don’t already own :))
Only two months until this imported jacket will carry a 35% tariff. Make America great again!
HELL, yes.
Nice.
Moon cloth (Shetland tweed?) and natural shoulder tailoring. Well damned done. Except for the lining, which is heinous. Everything else is a go.
Well executed jacketings. Will suiting be forthcoming? Haircut looks good too.
Christian — Beautiful jacket. If I need a 44 Long, is MTM only option?
Christian: Really nice jacket, but you are wearing your pants too low rise. The belt bucle shouldn’t show when the jacket is buttoned.
If this jacket were made in the USA or Europe, I’d be tempted.
What would be the price of this jacket if it were made in the USA or Europe?
@Keith Sinrod
Made in the USA or Europe by undocumented aliens?
@RM
Hands in pockets opened up front of jacket. Buckle looks low in photo. Trousers are from O’Connell’s with 11.5-inch rise.
Worry not, all is well.
Christian,
Who is the gentleman (in the mirror) taking the photo?
Tried to order MTM was was told not available in my size
@Oki
That’s Aaron, KW’s NY-based rep.
VEA is our old friend AEV, the perennial bugbear of FEC. (I bet if you tried to buy this “jacketing” from FEC, it’d come with ticket pockets on both sides, six functional buttons on the sleeves, piping, contrast stitching on all three boutonniere holes, and a neon-colored lining, all for only $2500.)
Actually he has a new sack jacket I just saw on his Instagram. I messaged to see if he’d like to submit materials for us to do a post about it, but haven’t heard back yet.
Of course, we can still report on it anyway….
I like to think of myself as THE inveterate misanthrope / curmudgeon. Fittingly, I like the non-smiling aspect of the photos. These days smiles are disgustingly ubiquitous. Those with good instincts are never disarmed by smiles, but rather made circumspect. The contrived smile and “have a nice day” mentality is absolutely incongruous with patrician demeanor. Smiles turn class into a pseudo-prep DCG-level travesty.
A travesty, folks. You read it here!
A fine initiative. Suggest that all go custom.