Nick Hilton just sent over photos of the new Norman Hilton sportcoats we posted about recently. Made in the US, they will be priced at $695-$795, or about the same as last time around. They are scheduled to arrive in Hilton’s Princeton shop in the next few weeks. — CC
19 Comments on "Norm! Fall 2014 Norman Hilton Sportcoats"
Comments are closed.
Am I correct that some models are 2-button darted and others 3/2 sacks?
I recall their all being 3/2s last time around, but perhaps I’m mistaken.
These are supposed to be Ivy-cut? Even looking at them is uncomfortable.
I see no sack.
It look like nos. 1, 7 and 8 are 3/2 sacks, as even in the good old days, the Hilton 3/2 sack Hampton model had some body tapering. Two problems with these though. Either the sleeves on these jackets are very long or the coat bodies are very short. I suspect the latter. Second, the prices make me doubt that they are fully canvassed.
It’s possible they have been pinned for photographic purposes. I remember the previous batch having some shaping, but not much:
http://www.ivy-style.com/green-is-good-norman-hilton-lovat-windowpane-sportcoat.html
Curmudgeons and reactionaries may be having a subconscious negative reaction to the presence of standard collars and satin ties.
Assuming they’re made at the same place, canvassing is addressed here:
http://www.ivy-style.com/ivy-trendwatch-the-return-of-norman-hilton.html
I’ll try and find out more from Nick.
I think that the ones with a ticket pocket are 2-button and the others are all 3/2.
Christian,
Yes, they were probably pinned to make the waist suppression even more obvious. If they’d been authentic straight-side sacks, the pinning would have created creases.
Why such high gorges? That’s more of an Italian thing, isn’t it?
@Waldo Walters
If the gorge were any higher, it would be at the shoulder seam.
Why such high gorges? Apparently, this is a requirement, now.
The only possible reason for moving the gorges so high is to prevent boutonnieres from being crushed by shoulder belts when driving.
I think they’re beautiful coats. Personally, I don’t mind the high gorge and I love the high button stance, suggesting a functional third button. I actually prefer the formality it gives the coat as, by contrast, with the look of the vestigial tip-over third button on a two button silhouette jacket. By the way, O’Connell’s website shows a number of coats with some shaping.
But, for those who want to look like Henry Stimson, I understand the objection. It’s that uncompromising approach to purity: “Gentlemen do not read other peoples’ mail.” . . . “A man’s coat does not having shaping.” . . . “Ever!”
Sorry, “have” not “having.”
@A.E.W. Mason
O’Connell’s website does have jackets with suppressed waists;
my wardrobe does not.
I wonder what Charlie Davidson thinks about “shaped” waists on sportcoats.
Andover Shop jacket with similarly high gorges:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Andover-Shop-Vintage-Mens-Brown-Glen-Plaid-2-Btn-Tweed-Blazer-40L-/251587691407
Looks quite a bit like these Hilton jackets except for the lapels.
Old Langrock was right.
In the 80s my Hampton model Hiltons had shaping,
maybe even darts, if I remember correctly. However,
they were truly natural shoulder.