Millennial Fogey: Visiting Traditional Menswear Shops In America & The UK
April 23, 2016
Millennial Fogey columnist Daniel Greenwood just returned from another epic tour with The New York Gilbert & Sullivan Players, during which he zigzagged across half the country. When he has down time, he likes to seek out traditional independent menswear shops that have managed to survive. Here are his favorties so far.
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I travel frequently these days — sometimes for pleasure, but mostly to earn my living. While planning my time off, I try to include a visit to some kind of traditional, independent menswear shop. Usual sources include Internet fora, local news, dealer directories, and word of mouth.
Independent shops have their own character, their own history, and their own raison d’être. They also reflect local taste and owner philosophies, which might interest those of you that enjoy informal anthropological studies.
Here are shops, some well known and others perhaps new to you, that I highly encourage you to visit and, more importantly, to patronize. They range in size and prestige, are presented in no particular order, and the only criteria I used was that I’ve visited them in person.
Many of these will appeal more to eclectic trads than to Ivy purists. There is also a lot of overlap in products, as there was in the heyday (how many stores sold Gant buttondowns?), yet each store is still unique, independently owned, and immensely enjoyable to visit in person.
My family and I spent countless wonderful summers on Cape Cod. As part of a trip into town for errands, my father and I would often stop in at Watson’s. Not only are their prices always reasonable, but visiting Watson’s is also a good way to see a cross-section of Cape Cod life. They carry Viyella shirts, Berle trousers, Hardwick blazers, Harris Tweed, Leather Man belts, etc. But what keeps the lights on during the winter months is workwear from Carhartt, Pendleton, Woolrich and the like. This is the clothing for local working men that spend their winters fishing, building, or otherwise maintaining the infrastructure of the Cape, keeping it up and running while the Nantucket Reds set are home in the Boston suburbs. Incidentally, they also carry Nantucket Reds. Look for sports shirts, Preston of New England belts, embroidered trousers, and New England charm, both genteel and salty.
I first ducked into Thomas Farthing while my mother was browsing the British Museum gift shop (she has an addiction to art hardcovers, and I’m not a very patient person). The amount of fantastic colors and textures in this store is damn near overwhelming. Trigger warning: betweeded London hipsters. If you can get past the fact that you share certain tastes with such whippersnappers, this is a fantastic shop for fine British clothing and accessories. Schoolboy scarves, ties, brollies, fantastic woolen outerwear — all appropriate for an orthodox Ivy closet. If you’re feeling a little heterodox, excellent off-the-peg, English-style tailored clothing at reasonable prices as well. Take special note of wool/silk opera scarves, hats of all shapes and materials, and Fair Isle sweaters.
I was performing with the Chattanooga Symphony, a top-notch regional orchestra, and was put up in a historic hotel down the street from the venue. Halfway between the two, I chanced upon Bruce Baird & Co, a true Southern gentleman’s shop. The men working there were dapper and chummy, and the goods reflected regional heritage as well as that particular strain of Southern Anglophilia. A Southwick retailer, I was told that most of the MTM jackets were three button and darted, but a sizable number of customer requests were for 3/2 sacks. I stopped by multiple times to check out Harley of Scotland sweaters, Seaward & Stearn ties, Crittenden jackets, and to enjoy the general Southern bonhomie.
Hipsters again — sorry. But the tweed tailored clothing is extremely well priced, if you’re feeling like a Caledoniaphile (that has to be word, yes?) Tweed caps, tweed ties — much of what’s in the store was at one point attached to a Scottish sheep (to keep prices affordable, they ship Scottish tweed overseas and manufacture elsewhere). Can’t speak to their other location in London, but the Edinburgh original is a comfortable interior, if perhaps a bit contrived.
South of the preppy California enclave of Pasadena is the charming suburb of San Marino. I found myself there when my lunch plans fell through. Gladstone’s, a seafood place on the Pacific that I like, was going to take over an hour and a half to get to — such is LA. So I spent my break browsing PM Jacoy instead of eating. This is about as traditional as I’ve found in Southern California, so the clothes were good quality but lacking Ivy details. They did carry Bill’s Khakis, and a salesman and I discussed how distressing it would be if Bill’s moved production overseas. He felt, as I do, that made-in-America should mean something more than a marketing ploy. Speaking of solid American craftsmanship, the store does carry Alden, with calfskin penny loafers their bestseller. The owner also mentioned that even if Alden charged him more, he wasn’t sure he would raise the price for customers, since he was satisfied with the margin he would be making. In this age of greed, and in Los Angeles, no less. Buy your Aldens here, SoCal guys.
Rush Wilson claims to have “ introduced the natural-shouldered, New England style to the southeast” and they’re still selling it. Greenville overall is a fantastic place: nightly shag dancing at my hotel, great food (I recommend The Lazy Goat), and lovely people. Add to the mix a shop selling real-deal Ivy style clothes, and this town has captured a special place in my heart. R. Hanauer and High Cotton bow ties, Southwick and Samuelsohn suits, salesmen sporting 3/2 sack jackets — these guys know the score. Take advantage of their Custom Package and get three MTM Southwick suits for $2,995. Or, more modestly, a Ledbury shirt.
Denver was another symphony gig, and one of my favorites. Not only is the orchestra top notch, but the performing arts complex is unparalleled. Then there’s Homer Reed. The entrance looks straight out of the Alps, and as a lover of all things Swiss, I give the storefront top grades. Hickey Freeman MTM, Hiltl trousers, their own line of shoes, and they also sell Gitman Bros shirts, which are currently on promotion. After you finish shopping, swing by the Brown Palace Hotel’s Ship Tavern across the street. I don’t know if it could get any more coastal New England so far from any ocean.
What traditional, independent shops would you recommend to a traditionalist traveler, a young guy, or a seasoned aficionado? Be sure and let me know. I’ll be on the road again soon enough. — DCG
Walker Slater has lost the plot – going increasingly High Street. They are now making clothes abroad to a lesser standard as they apparently chase a younger market. I have shopped there for over 2 decades. A great shame. The original innovator at WS now owns the oldest tailors in Edinburgh – Stuart Christie, it is a terrific shop.
PM Jaycoy seems very similar to Patrick James here in Fresno, CA, which used to be very trad 20+ years ago. I wasn’t around to experience it, but I have found many genuine Ivy artifacts from them at local thrift stores.
They still do stock Barbour, Allen Edmonds, and Bills Khakis.
I just scrolled down the front page and saw the usual variety you won’t find anywhere else, with articles by myself, DCG, Chris Sharp, Bruce Boyer, David Marx, and several guys who contributed to the “twilight” series.
I always look forward to DCG’s column and this week’s did not disappoint! As for Walker Slater, I contacted the company and found out that they now make their suits and sport coats in Portugal, which is not a terrible country for manufacturing. I know Orvis now has sport coats manufactured there as well. Walker Slater uses good fabrics like Harris Tweeds and other fine Scottish wools but I discovered, after perusing their website, that all of their suits and coats have only two buttons.
“What traditional, independent shops would you recommend to a traditionalist traveler, a young guy, or a seasoned aficionado?”
Millennial, you’re an impressive Gilbert & Sullivan touring fogey! Raise my glass to you!
Since you asked: you probably already know of independent shopkeeper Sid Mashburn who, upon departing RL, opened shop in Atlanta GA, now grown to TX and DC http://www.sidmashburn.com
After that reaction, I really don’t want to see anything. Incidentally, you only have to look at the paucity of comments to see they’re not exactly enlivening.
If you’re anywhere near Wilmington, Delaware (incl. Philadelphia or Baltimore), check out Wright & Simon on Market St. It has a bit more of a mid-century/Mad Men sensibility and architecture, but it’s Traddy and has been dressing duPont company execs, and the city’s legal and banking communities for more than 80 years.
Patrick James has 15 stores in California, including one in Carmel-By-The-Sea. I have found plenty of good items from them in local thrift shops, and even bought a pair of pants from them new—on sale, of course.
Also in Carmel-By-The-Sea: Khaki’s of Carmel, and Robert Talbott. The former is anything but Ivy, but has some beautiful clothes. Robert Talbott ties are of outstanding quality, and at least some of them are traditional stripes. They also do custom shirts.
Nearby Monterey used to have a local men’s shop: Dick Bruhn, A Man’s Store. The business was actually based in Salinas, and its owner grew the business to include formal wear shops and women’s shops as well. Sadly, the business went bankrupt in 2007, but I still go for his clothes when they show up in thrift stores.
If you ever get to Portland, make sure to drop by John Helmer Haberdasher. About half the store is dedicated to hats, but they also have fine men’s furnishings—ties, cologne, pocket squares, gloves, a limited selection of suits, jackets, & shoes, and some unusual things, such as walking sticks, sock garters, and even spats.
I would like once again to put in a word for Eljo’s in Charlottesville, if you are ever in central Virginia. Southwick and Empire sport coats and suits are available, although much of their tailored business is MTM theses days, and it remains a good source for trad furnishings with a southern feel. Friendly and knowledgeable sales people too.
“In the age of greed.” Ha.
Walker Slater has lost the plot – going increasingly High Street. They are now making clothes abroad to a lesser standard as they apparently chase a younger market. I have shopped there for over 2 decades. A great shame. The original innovator at WS now owns the oldest tailors in Edinburgh – Stuart Christie, it is a terrific shop.
Rush Wilson is indeed a treasure trove. The ersatz Brooks purchasers at corporate ought to take notes.
I’ve always enjoyed NYGASP.
PM Jaycoy seems very similar to Patrick James here in Fresno, CA, which used to be very trad 20+ years ago. I wasn’t around to experience it, but I have found many genuine Ivy artifacts from them at local thrift stores.
They still do stock Barbour, Allen Edmonds, and Bills Khakis.
Is it just me, or has Ivy-Style become flat and boring of late? I can barely be bothered to click. So disappointing.
What would you like to see?
I just scrolled down the front page and saw the usual variety you won’t find anywhere else, with articles by myself, DCG, Chris Sharp, Bruce Boyer, David Marx, and several guys who contributed to the “twilight” series.
I say shut up and go finish the crossword.
I always look forward to DCG’s column and this week’s did not disappoint! As for Walker Slater, I contacted the company and found out that they now make their suits and sport coats in Portugal, which is not a terrible country for manufacturing. I know Orvis now has sport coats manufactured there as well. Walker Slater uses good fabrics like Harris Tweeds and other fine Scottish wools but I discovered, after perusing their website, that all of their suits and coats have only two buttons.
“What traditional, independent shops would you recommend to a traditionalist traveler, a young guy, or a seasoned aficionado?”
Millennial, you’re an impressive Gilbert & Sullivan touring fogey! Raise my glass to you!
Since you asked: you probably already know of independent shopkeeper Sid Mashburn who, upon departing RL, opened shop in Atlanta GA, now grown to TX and DC http://www.sidmashburn.com
In Greenville NC is http://www.coffmansmenswear.com/
Middleburg VA horse country has two USA/UK-inspired shops
http://www.cdrigden.com/
http://www.highcliffeclothiers.com/
After that reaction, I really don’t want to see anything. Incidentally, you only have to look at the paucity of comments to see they’re not exactly enlivening.
If you’re anywhere near Wilmington, Delaware (incl. Philadelphia or Baltimore), check out Wright & Simon on Market St. It has a bit more of a mid-century/Mad Men sensibility and architecture, but it’s Traddy and has been dressing duPont company execs, and the city’s legal and banking communities for more than 80 years.
This image link from Tinseth’s old blog shows Wright & Simon exactly as it is: http://thetrad.blogspot.com/search/label/Wright%20and%20Simon
Patrick James has 15 stores in California, including one in Carmel-By-The-Sea. I have found plenty of good items from them in local thrift shops, and even bought a pair of pants from them new—on sale, of course.
Also in Carmel-By-The-Sea: Khaki’s of Carmel, and Robert Talbott. The former is anything but Ivy, but has some beautiful clothes. Robert Talbott ties are of outstanding quality, and at least some of them are traditional stripes. They also do custom shirts.
Nearby Monterey used to have a local men’s shop: Dick Bruhn, A Man’s Store. The business was actually based in Salinas, and its owner grew the business to include formal wear shops and women’s shops as well. Sadly, the business went bankrupt in 2007, but I still go for his clothes when they show up in thrift stores.
If you ever get to Portland, make sure to drop by John Helmer Haberdasher. About half the store is dedicated to hats, but they also have fine men’s furnishings—ties, cologne, pocket squares, gloves, a limited selection of suits, jackets, & shoes, and some unusual things, such as walking sticks, sock garters, and even spats.
I would like once again to put in a word for Eljo’s in Charlottesville, if you are ever in central Virginia. Southwick and Empire sport coats and suits are available, although much of their tailored business is MTM theses days, and it remains a good source for trad furnishings with a southern feel. Friendly and knowledgeable sales people too.