Polo Ralph Lauren has finally released images to Ivy-Style of its Fall/Winter 2010 collection, which include a new silhouette in the Blue Label line. This updated sack suit was first reported by WWD Men’s about two months ago, which was picked up by Valet, and since then has been sitting in Ivy-Style’s Ephemera column under the title “Natural shoulder, no darts at RL.”
Now we get a closer look of what the suits and sportcoats will look like. Polo has also released the following description:
A new suit jacket inspired by an antique sack suit is one of Polo Tailored Clothing’s most distinguished statements for fall. Defined by an easy natural shoulder and dart-less front, the jacket is fashioned in washed tweed that has a beautiful drape and exceptionally soft hand.
If you’re on the svelte side, the cut is a great blending of Ivy League heritage with a modern, tailored fit. There are no darts, but still shaping at the waist. Just because it’s called a “sack” doesn’t mean it has to fit like one, and darts, after all, are only one means of waist supression.
Sportcoats will be priced at $1,095-$1,295, with suits going for $1,295. — CC
Can a jacket with a suppressed waist legitimately be called a sack jacket? If the waists of the jackets are suppressed, does it really matter whether there are darts or not?
When I first started wearing Ralph in the early 80’s the ads were filled with men – Remember Tom Moore ?
Now the company’s image is overly groomed effeminate boys in their earliest 20’s.
The company’s image, at least in the men’s collateral and advertising, is overly body conscious, increasingly gay, and no longer what I relate to
It seems the ‘authenticity’ that was once Ralph’s, where he would take the real old school item and apply his own sensibility to it and make it even better than one’s memory of the original, has been replaced by chasing other peoples business and making stuff as cheaply as possible.
What happend?? Last season it was the wider lapel.. Just when I thought, OK RL is going back to his roots. No more of the this sort of “Mod” looking of the 50’s and 60’s. I guess your right KA Adams, once T. Moore passed away the look of gentlemen that POLO became known for it died with him. I too remember working for POLO in the 80’s it was great fabrications, fit, design and made here in MA. The look is coming too “soft” for fall. Where are the heavy 12-14oz wools out of the UK? Antique striping of shirtings? The classic old-world repps with the hand-rolled tipping?? I know the board of directors of P/RL have a say on what sells and what to create to fatten their coffers. But don’t have them sitting on design meetings.
You guys are insane if you think a sack suit = “gay” or “effeminate”. On the contrary, the look is obviously strongly rooted in the past. Also, as a former employee in the advertising agency at RL (early 2000’s), I can 100% tell you that these are simply chosen look book images from one of the season’s fashion deliveries. The wide lapels of which ATK speaks are still available as always in the tailored clothing department of any major Ralph Lauren store. The images above reflect the “fashion” suits and sport coats available for F/W 10.
I do, however, agree with your sentiment with regards to change in quality over the years. But, isn’t that the case for most of our “all-American” favorites? Sad, but true. It’s the cost of a growing empire. It simply is too expensive for them (and cuts into margin) to produce almost everything in the US.
I’m not suggesting sack suits are gay or effeminate. I am saying that Polo’s editing is increasingly so
And just to be clear I’m not anti gay – It’s just not a look that I aspire to or with which I have an affinity.
I understand that companies have to grow, change and develop new customers. I also understand that a multi billion dollar companies are not necessarily wieldy instruments but I think somewhere along the line the company has lost the plot.
K.A., I respect your opinion. What I take issue with is you suggesting someone can dress or be styled “gay.”
It’s very simple. Gay = you are attracted to men / Straight = you are attracted to women. Clothes have nothing to do with sexuality and for you to suggest that is very narrow-minded. I don’t want to assume anything, but you probably don’t have many gay men as friends in your life. Most of us are just as masculine as you, play the same sports you do and do not look or act any different than you. You are basing it on stereotypes from TV or movies over the years. What you are referring to is a feminine look, which can be sported by straight or gay men (trust me, I’ve seen my fair share of feminine-looking straight men all over the world).
Again, complete respect for your opinion, I just wanted you to see understand another man’s perception of what you said.
I must respectfully disagree when you say that clothes have nothing to do with sexuality.
Sexuality is the major playing field of fashion and it’s continually enhanced, critiqued or subverted for the purposes of gender politics and /or political statements by designers
If you had said that there was no definitive link between a certain fashion and sexual orientation, perhaps I might agree
There is a continuum of style within any community but to deny that this or any other tribe or sub tribe does not have its own distinguishing style, marks or mannerisms is simply false
Now I could certainly be wrong about those boy’s lips you see above. They could be the result of the calibration of my computer, the color correction of original shots or the retouching – I don’t know.
But when considered amongst many other images produced by Ralph Lauren in recent years there seems to be a direction
These guys really look like they’re out on a date with each other.
“Svelte”, “shaping”…are terms that we don’t associate with sack jackets or their intended wearers. A sack is just that…a sack.
Disagree with Orthodox Trad. For one thing, “svelte” was used to describe the wearer, not the jacket itself. Second, in Tradsville “sack” is often used synonymously for any jacket with a 3/2 roll. Obviously you can have a 3/2 roll, patch pockets, lapped seams, hooked vent, and still have it shaped.
“A sack is just that. . . a sack.” And because that description fits most sack suits, I’ve never bought one. I like natural shoulders and 3/2 rolls, but I don’t want excess fabric flapping around my waist.
If I’d seen RL’s new jackets without any words describing them, my reaction would probably be: they’re British, but with softer shoulders—not, they’re sacks, but with narrower waists.
Fortunately, there are enough gentlemen out there who still believe that what CD has termed that “extra fabric flapping around your waist” is no more “extra fabric” than long tails on a shirt or cuffs on trousers.
These are, of themselves, nice looking suits. Unfortunately for anyone who isn;t on the set of Mad Men or another period piece, they won’t be practical. Wear these at your BB next Monday…and promptly fail to observe the guffaws of your colleagues behind your back.
For the free wheeling entrepreneur, and self employed man however… they are darn nice.
Interesting comments regarding the look of the young men wearing the clothing. Funny, while reading the article, all I noticed was the clothing. Was glad to see traditionally cut 3 piece suits that did not appear to be 4 sizes too small in breadth and length. (although some of the slacks appeared to be a little short.) And have always been a fan of club collars so was glad to see those as well.
I look forward to seeing this offering. I am a fan of the blue label suits and jackets right now even with darts.
These suits are gorgeous. They feel very 1940’s to me.
Lulu Letty
Ralph Lauren, making men look like studs since forever 🙂 Thanks for posting, I love this updated style.
I like the cut of the sport coats but not a huge fan of the colors. The brown one is too orange for my taste.
http://southerngentinnewengland.blogspot.com/
maria: They don’t look anything like the 40’s, which featured lots of shoulder padding.
Can a jacket with a suppressed waist legitimately be called a sack jacket? If the waists of the jackets are suppressed, does it really matter whether there are darts or not?
Tweed jackets are in ugly colors and are too short.
Trousers are all too tight. If you can see a dude’s package in a wool trouser something is wrong.
Ralph Lauren does Thom Browne ? No thanks
When I first started wearing Ralph in the early 80’s the ads were filled with men – Remember Tom Moore ?
Now the company’s image is overly groomed effeminate boys in their earliest 20’s.
The company’s image, at least in the men’s collateral and advertising, is overly body conscious, increasingly gay, and no longer what I relate to
It seems the ‘authenticity’ that was once Ralph’s, where he would take the real old school item and apply his own sensibility to it and make it even better than one’s memory of the original, has been replaced by chasing other peoples business and making stuff as cheaply as possible.
K.A. Adams said it all.
What happend?? Last season it was the wider lapel.. Just when I thought, OK RL is going back to his roots. No more of the this sort of “Mod” looking of the 50’s and 60’s. I guess your right KA Adams, once T. Moore passed away the look of gentlemen that POLO became known for it died with him. I too remember working for POLO in the 80’s it was great fabrications, fit, design and made here in MA. The look is coming too “soft” for fall. Where are the heavy 12-14oz wools out of the UK? Antique striping of shirtings? The classic old-world repps with the hand-rolled tipping?? I know the board of directors of P/RL have a say on what sells and what to create to fatten their coffers. But don’t have them sitting on design meetings.
I just took a look at these pictures again
Three of these guys look like they’re wearing lipstick !
They can’t even do basic image retouching without feminizing it
They need to hire a couple of straight guys for some of the senior creative positions
When Anthony Edgeworth did the photos in the early 80’s, the images were authentic. This is not. This is puerile.
K.A. Adams hit the nail on the head with the lipstick comment.
Fortunately there are still some places where one can find straight models, like http://www.bensilver.com
You guys are insane if you think a sack suit = “gay” or “effeminate”. On the contrary, the look is obviously strongly rooted in the past. Also, as a former employee in the advertising agency at RL (early 2000’s), I can 100% tell you that these are simply chosen look book images from one of the season’s fashion deliveries. The wide lapels of which ATK speaks are still available as always in the tailored clothing department of any major Ralph Lauren store. The images above reflect the “fashion” suits and sport coats available for F/W 10.
I do, however, agree with your sentiment with regards to change in quality over the years. But, isn’t that the case for most of our “all-American” favorites? Sad, but true. It’s the cost of a growing empire. It simply is too expensive for them (and cuts into margin) to produce almost everything in the US.
Michael –
I’m not suggesting sack suits are gay or effeminate. I am saying that Polo’s editing is increasingly so
And just to be clear I’m not anti gay – It’s just not a look that I aspire to or with which I have an affinity.
I understand that companies have to grow, change and develop new customers. I also understand that a multi billion dollar companies are not necessarily wieldy instruments but I think somewhere along the line the company has lost the plot.
K.A., I respect your opinion. What I take issue with is you suggesting someone can dress or be styled “gay.”
It’s very simple. Gay = you are attracted to men / Straight = you are attracted to women. Clothes have nothing to do with sexuality and for you to suggest that is very narrow-minded. I don’t want to assume anything, but you probably don’t have many gay men as friends in your life. Most of us are just as masculine as you, play the same sports you do and do not look or act any different than you. You are basing it on stereotypes from TV or movies over the years. What you are referring to is a feminine look, which can be sported by straight or gay men (trust me, I’ve seen my fair share of feminine-looking straight men all over the world).
Again, complete respect for your opinion, I just wanted you to see understand another man’s perception of what you said.
Michael –
I must respectfully disagree when you say that clothes have nothing to do with sexuality.
Sexuality is the major playing field of fashion and it’s continually enhanced, critiqued or subverted for the purposes of gender politics and /or political statements by designers
If you had said that there was no definitive link between a certain fashion and sexual orientation, perhaps I might agree
There is a continuum of style within any community but to deny that this or any other tribe or sub tribe does not have its own distinguishing style, marks or mannerisms is simply false
Now I could certainly be wrong about those boy’s lips you see above. They could be the result of the calibration of my computer, the color correction of original shots or the retouching – I don’t know.
But when considered amongst many other images produced by Ralph Lauren in recent years there seems to be a direction
These guys really look like they’re out on a date with each other.
“Svelte”, “shaping”…are terms that we don’t associate with sack jackets or their intended wearers. A sack is just that…a sack.
Disagree with Orthodox Trad. For one thing, “svelte” was used to describe the wearer, not the jacket itself. Second, in Tradsville “sack” is often used synonymously for any jacket with a 3/2 roll. Obviously you can have a 3/2 roll, patch pockets, lapped seams, hooked vent, and still have it shaped.
“A sack is just that. . . a sack.” And because that description fits most sack suits, I’ve never bought one. I like natural shoulders and 3/2 rolls, but I don’t want excess fabric flapping around my waist.
If I’d seen RL’s new jackets without any words describing them, my reaction would probably be: they’re British, but with softer shoulders—not, they’re sacks, but with narrower waists.
Fortunately, there are enough gentlemen out there who still believe that what CD has termed that “extra fabric flapping around your waist” is no more “extra fabric” than long tails on a shirt or cuffs on trousers.
These are, of themselves, nice looking suits. Unfortunately for anyone who isn;t on the set of Mad Men or another period piece, they won’t be practical. Wear these at your BB next Monday…and promptly fail to observe the guffaws of your colleagues behind your back.
For the free wheeling entrepreneur, and self employed man however… they are darn nice.
Interesting comments regarding the look of the young men wearing the clothing. Funny, while reading the article, all I noticed was the clothing. Was glad to see traditionally cut 3 piece suits that did not appear to be 4 sizes too small in breadth and length. (although some of the slacks appeared to be a little short.) And have always been a fan of club collars so was glad to see those as well.