If you hold a mirror up to your computer screen, you’ll see that the gent being measured for a jacket is at the venerable clothier Chipp, as seen in this illustration from the company’s 1965 catalog. Ivy Style asked Paul Winston, son of the Chipp founders, for any insight on the drawing, and he replied, “The drawing was done by Al Herman, who was a top fashion illustrator of the period. The fitter pictured was Bob DiFalco, who was our designer and fitter. Back then all the ads and catalogs featured line drawings, not pictures of products and models wearing clothing. That was what Chipp looked like before we bought the building. It was a walk-up with a narrow flight of stairs, which was negotiated by the Kennedys, Watsons, and Cyrus Vance to drop a few names. In the background you see the wall of cloth. No swatch books; customers were shown bolts of cloth.”
“…modest tariff.” Tariff is not the correct term for the price of an article of clothing. A tie is not sold at a usage rate, is it (e.g., electricity)? A tie is not sold as transportation, is it (e.g., rail service)? Get a dictionary, Chens.
I don’t know what’s stranger, that Carmelo recognized the image came from something from 1965, or that Chief Sharp knew exactly where it was from and where to find it on the web.
Do you guys have photographic memories or just spend a really, really large amount of time looking at menswear images?
My guess is that both of these gentlemen (Carmelo and Chief Sharp) are members of the pre-internet generation. We had to store a great deal of information in our minds then. My students are still amazed when I tell them what article/essay can be found in what anthology. We had to remember such stuff. Otherwise how could one ever hope to find the information again?
Great illustration. I wish I could see the catalog, but the 2 links above go to some very NSFW pictures in which clothing plays no role whatsoever. Does anybody have a current working link to the catalog?
Old School – I love the old hand-illustrated catalogs and ads from Brooks Brothers, Cable Car Clothiers, J. Press, Chipp and others, and like you wish their wares were still the norm. The Press brochure and and O’Connell’s website seem to be the closest thing today, and I am thankful for both.
I note that the Chipp suit prices would be somewhere around $1,200 today, which is probably about what a suit of comparable quality would cost today, or possibly a bit less. Well worth the money when they last for 25 years or more. I still have a few Number 1 Sack suits from Brooks that date to the mid 80s, and I wore one yesterday, with a shirt and tie from around the same time. All still look great, and still get compliments. I would be surprised if today’s fashions will last anywhere near as long, but that may actually be a mercy.
“…modest tariff.” Tariff is not the correct term for the price of an article of clothing. A tie is not sold at a usage rate, is it (e.g., electricity)? A tie is not sold as transportation, is it (e.g., rail service)? Get a dictionary, Chens.
The draw is from a 1965 catalog.
Is possible that is more old?
In this case,i don’t think early 50s,
maybe late 50s-early 60s.
I bought a navy grenadine tie from them – good quality at the right price. Highly recommended.
My compliments to a deeply respected former competitor Paul Winston who stoically, but also with great elan, carries forward a great tradition.
http://www.ejforbes.com/2011/01/25/style-chipp-fall-1965/
Very cool illustration. Either that employee is very short or that customer is really tall.
http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?91261-Plaid-Jackets-Life-Magazine-Fashion-Shoot-1950&p=1004771#post1004771
Here are some pictures from 1950
What a great find this catalogue is!
Christmas in November.
Paul is the best; I’ve been a Chipp bespoke customer since 1982.
Artist Al Herrmann was also named by the late George Frazier as one of the best dressed men in America (Esquire Sept. 1960).
“I recognize the catalog cover but didn’t recognize that particular illustration”.
Is at page 2.
Is probable that the draw is two or three year before 1965 (maybe 1960),but for sure not early 50s.
I don’t know what’s stranger, that Carmelo recognized the image came from something from 1965, or that Chief Sharp knew exactly where it was from and where to find it on the web.
Do you guys have photographic memories or just spend a really, really large amount of time looking at menswear images?
My guess is that both of these gentlemen (Carmelo and Chief Sharp) are members of the pre-internet generation. We had to store a great deal of information in our minds then. My students are still amazed when I tell them what article/essay can be found in what anthology. We had to remember such stuff. Otherwise how could one ever hope to find the information again?
I have a photographic memory for that i like.
On the other hand this picture is one of few evidence of Ivy league bespoke.
Impossible not to remember!
I am pre internet. I honestly can not imagine what life is like for students today.
I am guilty of spending some time with this subject matter but these things just stick.
Some might go as far to say I sometimes “Have an impressive knowledge of the unimpressive”
Great illustration. I wish I could see the catalog, but the 2 links above go to some very NSFW pictures in which clothing plays no role whatsoever. Does anybody have a current working link to the catalog?
I answered my own question. Here is a non-x-rated link: https://thepopinjay.tumblr.com/post/169451548999/chipp-clothiers-catalog-fw-1965
Thank you, Charlottesville. The catalogue itself and the metchandise it contains are enough to make one weep.
Old School – I love the old hand-illustrated catalogs and ads from Brooks Brothers, Cable Car Clothiers, J. Press, Chipp and others, and like you wish their wares were still the norm. The Press brochure and and O’Connell’s website seem to be the closest thing today, and I am thankful for both.
I note that the Chipp suit prices would be somewhere around $1,200 today, which is probably about what a suit of comparable quality would cost today, or possibly a bit less. Well worth the money when they last for 25 years or more. I still have a few Number 1 Sack suits from Brooks that date to the mid 80s, and I wore one yesterday, with a shirt and tie from around the same time. All still look great, and still get compliments. I would be surprised if today’s fashions will last anywhere near as long, but that may actually be a mercy.