Clothes

Tickets, Please: The J. Press Anglo-American Corduroy Sportcoat

The great thing about getting your clothing made-to-measure is that you can get things that don’t otherwise exist. Last week I visited Jay Walter, who heads up J. Press’ made-to-measure program, and he showed me a corduroy sportcoat he’d just finished for a client. The jacket was rendered in olive, that popular heyday hue, and


A Frayed So: In Praise of Beater Clothes

Previously I’ve written about the Boston Cracked Shoe look, a term applied to certain WASP patricians who would wear items that had far outlived their presentable lifespan. Members of the press discovered the concept during the presidential campaign of Adlai Stevenson when they observed Stevenson had holes in the soles of his shoes while working


How Barbour Jackets Entered The Trad Canon — And My Own Wardrobe

Some are fond of asking whether Barbour jackets are Ivy or preppy. They are certainly not collegiate in the 1960s sense, although they would later be embraced by J. Press. They were not in “The Official Preppy Handbook.” The jacket that was sanctioned there was the LL Bean Field Coat. So what was the Barbour?


The Aristocrat of Topcoats: Boyer on the Polo Coat

Ivy-Style continues its efforts to digitize Boyer’s work for the Internet and a new generation of readers. This latest offering addresses the polo coat, the so-called “aristocrat of topcoats.” Below are some words of reflection submitted by Boyer, followed by the article, which originally appeared in the July, 1981 issue of Town & Country. Pictured


Rubber Souls: No End In Sight For Millennial Bean Boot Demand

You might remember reports over the past couple of holiday shopping seasons that LL Bean could barely meet demand for its famous rubber boots. Well the kids are still wearing them and the company is predicting sales of one million units by 2018, up from the current 600,000. Ten years ago it was a mere


My Kinda Clothes: Southern Trad In Chicago

“My kinda clothes” is a charming little phrase coined by Charlie Davidson of The Andover Shop. Here at Ivy Style, it’s a regular series in which readers share their favorite clothing items. If you’d like to share yours, use the contact button above. * * * I picked up my style of dress largely without


Tops With Me: The Case For Fastening The Third Button

In our last post about Washington & Lee University in 1969, many were surprised — including myself — by how many of the young men had fastened the top button on their three-button jackets. It certainly led to many speculations here and on our Facebook page. Was this a regional thing? Were the jackets made


What’s the Madder? Boyer on the Autumnal Neckwear Classic

Ancient madder ties, a fall/winter classic, are extra prevalent this year. Brooks Brothers has introduced them in its narrow width, and Ralph Lauren’s collections, especially Purple Label, are full of them. But what exactly is ancient madder? We asked menswear sage G. Bruce Boyer to give us the scoop. * * * Authentic ancient English



Last Chance To Place Orders For The Ivy Style Trad Jacket Project

Last weekend I met G. Bruce Boyer at a menswear event and eagerly asked him what he thought of my new sportcoat. He stroked the fabric, examined the fit, and concluded that it looked great. “Very Princeton 1958,” he said. I can think of no better unofficial endorsement of Ivy Style’s first collaboration than praise


Turtleneck And Oxford: The Preppy Way, And The Other Way

There’s the preppy way of doing things, and then there’s every other way. Case in point, above we have a turtleneck worn under a buttondown. Verdict: preppy. Below (from a Valetmag.com feature yesterday), we have a buttondown under a turtleneck. Verdict: something else. Honor your forefathers. Defend tradition. Avoid forced foppery. And finally, go forth


Jack and John: The Sartorial Dichotomy of JFK

Was John F. Kennedy the most Ivy of US presidents, or did the most important man in the country actually encourage American men not to follow the Ivy League Look? That depends on whether you’re talking about President Kennedy the nation’s leader, or Jack Kennedy relaxing among friends and family in Hyannis Port. On assignment


Does Color Matter? CC Rounds Up Expert Analysis For Gent’s Journal

As I mentioned recently, I’ve begun contributing to The Gentleman’s Journal, a London-based luxury men’s magazine that just launched a US version of its website. I’ll occasionally share pieces when I think they’re germane to the Ivy Style community. Given that color plays a primal role in preppy style, my latest should be of interest.


For Your Consideration: The Wool Grenadine Tie

While at Kamakura last week something caught my eye on their meticulously folded tie table. It was an unusual texture, and when I investigated, sure enough it turned out to be in a grenadine weave, but made of only 20 percent silk, the rest being wool. I quickly messaged Mr. G. Bruce Boyer, who agreed


The Bit Slip

Who knew Gucci made a slipper version of its iconic bit loafer? Pair with velvet smoking jacket for relaxing evenings at home. Price $570. — CC


Prepare For Descent: The Shoulder Angle Alteration

Earlier this summer I met with Lee Denslow of Emerson Bespoke, a Connecticut-based clotheshorse who’s having a blast running a little side business making custom clothing. Lee was making me a tweed sportcoat (which I’ll share soon), and the measuring and finishing was done by his associates at Alterations Master, located just a few doors


The Red Sweater In ’80s Brooks Brothers Catalogs, Plus Current Stock

Quick, before we reach peak red sweater! Here are some scans from Brooks Brothers catalogs from the early ’80s, featuring red sweaters for men and women, plus a turtleneck and sclarlet vest:     As for what’s currently available, there are a few, though no cable knits. Here’s a wool crewneck for $148: Wool v-neck,


The Red Sweater

I turned on the debate last night for 30 seconds before switching it off to watch my DVD from Netflix, which, by bizarre coincidence, was “The Fall Of The Roman Empire.” So this morning I awoke to an email from Ivy Style contributor James Kraus. Apparently it doesn’t take much to distinguish oneself sartorially these


Ivy Chic, Japanese Edition

Does “Ivy chic” live in Japan? It does to my eye, as evidenced in this bold, simple, and elegant look from a Japanese member of Ivy Style’s Facebook group. He said he’s wearing a vintage Brooks Brothers nailhead suit, white Brooks shirt, and black knit tie from Atkinson’s (also note TV fold handkerchief). Wonder what


Stop Saying “Suiting”

Misuses of language have a way of spreading like viruses. For years now sportscasters have been using the term “reactionary” instead of “reactive.” Reactionary, of course, means politically ultra-conservative, not “characterized by athletic reaction.” The same guys also like to analyze the “enormity” of the situation, when in fact “enormity” means excessive wickedness, not a


Panel Discussion: The Brooks Brothers Patchwork Cardigan

I spied this in Brooks the other day — you can see why it was hard to miss. The new patchwork cardigan — includes 20 different panels and 15 colors — is made of lambswool and priced at $498. According to Brooks’ website (which also notes the designer spent 30 hours on it), the sweater