The Popped Polo (Coat, That Is)

Sun 26 Jan 2014 - Filed under: Clothes — Christian
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popped polo coat

I’ll confess to popping the collars on all my overcoats, including my raincoat, most of the time. Not for preppy reasons: I just can’t seem to shake that 19th century influence.

Zach of Newton Street vintage recently posted about popped polos — polo coats, that is — which got us thinking about finally mentioning there’s a tumblr site entirely devoted to polo coats and their cousins.

We haven’t done a poll in a while, so let’s see how the numbers break down among you guys when it comes to popping wool, cashmere and camelhair collars, as opposed to cotton piqué:

Overcoat Collars
Do you pop the collar on your overcoats?

It’s certainly been polo coat weather lately. I’m heading into town in mine, worn lazy-Sunday style with grey flannels, boat shoes, turtleneck under buttondown, vintage-varsity-styled shawl cardigan from RL, and a baseball cap from the Newport Jazz Festival.

And no, I’m not wearing such a getup to church. — CC

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A Wing And A Pair: Beckett Simonon’s Budget-Conscious, Welted Longwing

Fri 24 Jan 2014 - Filed under: 1990-present,Clothes — Christian
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We received a message from Beckett Simonon, a shoe company that launched in 2012, touting its new collection of shoes atimed at the budget-conscious guy who still wants quality. The shoes, which are made in India, feature Goodyear-welt construction, a durable manufacturing process associated with shoes priced much higher.

Here’s an extract from the company’s press release:

“We see a huge gap in the men’s footwear market. It’s outrageous that well-made leather shoes retail above $300. We operate without the complex layers of big businesses (no middlemen, no distributors, no expensive physical stores, etc.) so we can offer the same quality products for a much more affordable price,” says Andres Niño, CEO and co-founder of Beckett Simonon. “By selling directly to consumers we bypass the traditional retail markup, around 2.5X, so we are technically selling to consumers at wholesale prices.” Beckett Simonon is the only online footwear company to sell Goodyear Welted construction shoes under $139, setting them apart from competitors with equivalent craftsmanship and materials but retailing above $300.

As the American gold-standard in quality shoe construction, Goodyear Welt construction holds together the sole, insole and upper sole with one thick stitch and a leather welt. Between the insole and outsole is a cork layer that creates a custom-like footbed, which makes the shoe breathable and flexible.

Beckett Simonon’s longwings, pictured above, are just $139. The color is too light for me personally (and I’m not a longwing fan anyway), and I’d recommend swapping out the laces, but they certainly seem to fill an opening in the shoe market. Not every new grad or frugal trad can follow the “Official Preppy Handbook’s” advice and invest a week’s salary in a pair of Church’s shoes. — CC

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De-Pressing: Goodbye Gathering For J. Press At Madison & 47th

Sat 18 Jan 2014 - Filed under: Clothes — Christian
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Update: The final hours of J. Press at Madison and 47th were rather subdued, which allowed Richard Press to have a long chat with Onward Kashiyama management.

The company says it is very actively looking for suitable locations both in New York and New Haven, and is acutely aware of the tremendous value of the brand’s heritage, as well as the need to “move forward.”

A longtime salesman also intimated that he planned to be back on the floor just as soon as the new store opens. — CC


Today J. Press sent out the above in an email blast.

On Saturday at 5 pm, join myself and columnist and Press family royalty Richard Press as Madison Avenue and 47th Street de-Press themselves of this historic American retailer.

We’ll count down the final hours together. Come by to snatch up the last remaining items, rub natural shoulders with fellow trads, pay your respects to the current location, and wish the company a speedy return to the streets of Manhattan. — CC

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Battle Of The Hoodies

Wed 15 Jan 2014 - Filed under: Clothes — Christian
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This morning I received some spring shopping email blasts. One suggesting that if I buy shorts spring will come sooner I found a little crass. It’s January 15. That’s just a few weeks since Christmas, when we were bombarded by calls to spend, not to mention all the hoopla over the end-of-year sales.

But that’s evidently the retail landscape these days, as all the usual suspects are unveiling spring clothing even though we’re all financially tapped from Christmas and have a long winter ahead.

Among the new items to show up were some hooded sweatshirts, that great sartorial equalizer that go by the nickname “hoodie.” (I used to have one I really loved; I think I was wearing it the day “Star Wars” opened.)

So let’s have a little battle of the hoodies. (Continue)

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Ivy In Unexpected Places: Club Monaco’s Updated Sack Jackets

Fri 10 Jan 2014 - Filed under: Clothes,Ivy Trendwatch — Zachary DeLuca
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monaco sack2

Those in search of a happy medium between the colorful exuberance of Neo-Prep and the stoicism of full-cut traditionalism might find encouragement in Club Monaco’s new line of undarted sportcoats, designed and presented with both youthfulness and restraint.

Released within the brand’s domestically-produced capsule collection, Club Monaco’s sack jackets bring the 3/2 roll and the two-button cuff to unexpected territory, the American mall. Described as having a “heritage-inspired look” and a “modern slim fit,” the sportcoats will no doubt catch the ire of those who consider the heritage movement a commoditization of tradition into fashion. Though the coats feature a dartless front, 3/2 roll, flapped patch pockets and hook vent, they are cut with the trim, cropped fit that has, for the last decade, been characteristic of attempts to bring a younger customer to tailored clothing. (Continue)

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Cinderella, Your Double Monks Are Ready

Thu 2 Jan 2014 - Filed under: 1990-present,Clothes — Christian
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Happy 2014 from Ivy Style, and let’s get back to business and ring in the new year with a laugh.

You may have heard that Esquire has launched a TV network, and from what a colleague tells me who’s already been in a pitch session, they’re not exactly looking for highbrow content.

In this clip, an exceptionally unlikeable style host pays a visit to Ben Silver. A self-confessed devotee of the “bare-ankle lifestyle,” the host is clad in a contrast-collared shirt open at the neck, jeans, no socks, and a sportcoat he refers to as a blazer and thinks would look swell with some nifty metal buttons. He’s shopping for some double monks, which, of course, he plans to wear sockless like it’s 2011.

The facial expressions from Ben Silver managing director Bob Prenner are quite priceless, and towards the end he refers to the host as “Cinderella,” which might sound like a mild slur save for the reveal still to come, namely that the host has a wife.

Good luck to Esquire TV. At least they have a flair for the comedic twist. — CC

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