Clothes

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J. Press And The Universal Elegance Of Ivy League Style

J. Press has produced a really cool new catalog for summer 2016. Why cool? Because it was produced in Japan and translated into English. That means it really plays up the heritage of the Ivy League Look, as well as offering that ever-curious glimpse into our national style from the point of view of outsiders


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My Kinda Clothes: Al Castiel III

Eight years ago, when I first interviewed Charlie Davidson of The Andover Shop about dressing Miles Davis, he used a simple but delightful phrase “my kinda clothes.” The phrase stuck with me and now, after all these years, I’m finally employing it as a new recurring feature. “My Kinda Clothes” will give Ivy Style readers


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Their Favorite Things

When my sister and I were kids, our parents encouraged an appreciation of the great American musicals. They enrolled us in dance classes, and when “The Sound Of Music” would air on TV, it was one of the rare times when they would let us stay up late with school the next day. They also


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Southern Revival: Can Sid Mashburn Popularize The Undarted Jacket?

GQ has just launched a new magazine called GQ Style, which features an extensive profile on Sid Mashburn. If you don’t know a lot about him, Mashburn worked at Ralph Lauren for a spell and has been considered a tastemaker since opening his eponymous store in Atlanta (it helps that his wife used to work


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North Vs. South: Who Really Popularized Seersucker?

Today is National Seersucker Day, which grew out of Seersucker Thursday on Capitol Hill. But while the day’s origins are clear, the beginnings of the fabric itself are somewhat contested. Both Haspel in New Orleans and Brooks Brothers in New York claim to have either introduced or popularized seersucker. This is from Haspel’s website: On


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Whatever Floats Your Boat: The Sperry Custom Program

Today I stumbled across the custom boat shoe program on Sperry Top-Sider’s website. For $120 you get to choose everything, down to the color of laces and outsole and type of eyelet, and they send them in about three weeks. The software is fast and slick for instant gratification, though you’ll need some design skills


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Endangered Species: The Bow-Tie Wearing Professor

Content Warning: politics, poetry, bowties Everyone should have a bowtie-wearing professor. This figure is deep in our collective unconscious. Looking at old photographs or watching old movies, you’re likely to encounter this wise and genial figure complete with tweed jacket, pipe, and floppy hat. Harrison Ford as Indiana Jones comes to mind, as well as


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Ben Douglas Kickstarter Campaign And The Return Of The Detachable Collar

Remember the scene in Whit Stillman’s “Metropolitan” when a character sings the praises of  detachable-collar shirts? Well a new Kickstarter campaign aims to make them a reality. Boston-based Al Castiel III, who runs the site Regattas & Repp Ties and who will spend the summer in New York interning in Paul Stuart’s custom department, has


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Ivy News That’s Fit To Print: NY Times On The Brooks Oxford

Back in January, when I learned about what we now call the new/old Brooks Brothers oxford-cloth buttondown, Ivy Style did something unprecedented: we ran two posts in one day. And the next day we did it again. These four posts — the news announcement, followed by analysis pieces by myself, Bruce Boyer, and Dan Greenwood


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Take The B Train

New Yorkers are no doubt familiar with the subway shuttle between Grand Central and Times Square. It was briefly in the news a few months back when the train cars were decorated with hybrid American and Imperial Japanese/Third Reich imagery to publicize the TV series “The Man In The High Castle.” People, being wonderful creatures,


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Young Man With A Horn

As a follow-up to yesterday’s post on Ethan Hawke’s new Chet Baker biopic, we’re revisiting Ivy Style’s one and only fashion photo shoot, originally posted on October 23, 2012. Today we begin planning a new one. * * * He was a prep-school dropout From the Donegal Mist Academy, Fortune’s fool who dared to love


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Gray Fleece: Brooks Brothers’ Skilled But Aging Workforce

Early in my career I wrote a feature story on skilled trades that were fast dying out, such as watch and clock repair. These days the typically male worker who doesn’t go to college and who likes to work with his hands is more likely to take a technology-based job, such as setting up your


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Khaki Project Update: Do-It-Yourself And Made In China Options

Regular readers will recall the khaki project we had in development last year. It sparked palpable enthusiasm here and in other parts of the Internet, but our partner was Bills Khakis, which developed business problems and shelved the project. Well there are a couple of updates. First off, last week Pedro Mendes, who runs the


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The Moriarty Ski Cap: On The Slippery Slope Of Taste

Six years ago when I wrote about Moriarty ski caps, I was left with the feeling that the story was not completely over. I initially chalked it up to nostalgia: after all I was not the only one with a reverence for this genre of winter headgear.  Michael Maginn at SeniorSkining.com explored the connection he


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Depends On Your Priorities: The $375 Orvis Highland Tweed Sportcoat

Unless money for you is no object, acquiring clothing probably involves some degree of compromise, it’s just a question of how much. The old adage about buying the best you can afford, and making long-term investments in your wardrobe, is sound advice. But even if you scrimp and save there’s still a limit on how


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A Tribute to the Collar Pin

Ivy Style continues honoring Black History Month with a selection of images of stylish African American gents sporting collar pins. This post was originally posted on February 20, 2011. * * * On my trip to Cambridge a few months ago, I picked up a silver collar pin at J. Press. I took such an


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Spalla Naturale: The New Brooks Brothers Natural Shoulder

I posted this on Ivy’s Facebook group a couple of hours ago, and, as with everything Brooks, it inspired enough fireworks to justify posting here. The company’s latest head-scratcher comes in the form of a mailer sent out today touting the new natural shoulder “inspired by soft Italian tailoring.” Heresy. Treason. WTF. I realize that



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From The Op-Ed Pages: Fogey Rant At UCONN

Yesterday an amusing message landed in my inbox. A Danish student at the University of Connecticut had seen our piece on school dress codes and said he had recently written something similar. The student, Simon Jønler, had been asked to write a piece for the school paper about his impressions of the college from a


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YDN Columnist Agues For Dress Code, Fellow Students Say “Get A Life”

My how things do change. Yesterday we posted a photo of JFK as a college freshman in 1935, wearing jacket, tie and collar pin. Meanwhile in 2016, America’s best and brightest continue the practice of wearing hooded sweatshirts on national television in the “Jeopardy!” college tournament. Well one Yale student has finally taken to protest,


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Blue’s Clues

When last I spoke to J. Press, I was told that the whole brand was being brought under one design department, and that department would be based in Tokyo. So what might the new J. Press Blue collection look like when it finally makes it to US stores and e-commerce? These images from J. Press’


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Press Unveils York Street Replacement J. Press Blue

Today J. Press sent out an email blast promoting its new spring collection. When I landed on the site, I saw that York Street was no longer there. Previously Press had operated two sites, one for York Street and one for the main collection. The site is now integrated, which makes a lot more sense.


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Cracked Shoes And Old Clothes

Yesterday on Ivy’s Facebook group much fun was had over a Daily News article about Jeb Bush, who was spotted with a piece of duct tape holding his shoes together. Nobody at the paper, or in the readership, know where that comes from, but for Tradsville it’s probably Bush’s most Old Money gesture in the