Clothes

Brooks for NY times

Ivy News That’s Fit To Print: NY Times On The Brooks Oxford

Back in January, when I learned about what we now call the new/old Brooks Brothers oxford-cloth buttondown, Ivy Style did something unprecedented: we ran two posts in one day. And the next day we did it again. These four posts — the news announcement, followed by analysis pieces by myself, Bruce Boyer, and Dan Greenwood


image1 2

Take The B Train

New Yorkers are no doubt familiar with the subway shuttle between Grand Central and Times Square. It was briefly in the news a few months back when the train cars were decorated with hybrid American and Imperial Japanese/Third Reich imagery to publicize the TV series “The Man In The High Castle.” People, being wonderful creatures,


1 YoungManWithHorn1

Young Man With A Horn

As a follow-up to yesterday’s post on Ethan Hawke’s new Chet Baker biopic, we’re revisiting Ivy Style’s one and only fashion photo shoot, originally posted on October 23, 2012. Today we begin planning a new one. * * * He was a prep-school dropout From the Donegal Mist Academy, Fortune’s fool who dared to love


bbtie

Gray Fleece: Brooks Brothers’ Skilled But Aging Workforce

Early in my career I wrote a feature story on skilled trades that were fast dying out, such as watch and clock repair. These days the typically male worker who doesn’t go to college and who likes to work with his hands is more likely to take a technology-based job, such as setting up your


fullrise-cuffs

Khaki Project Update: Do-It-Yourself And Made In China Options

Regular readers will recall the khaki project we had in development last year. It sparked palpable enthusiasm here and in other parts of the Internet, but our partner was Bills Khakis, which developed business problems and shelved the project. Well there are a couple of updates. First off, last week Pedro Mendes, who runs the


moriarty

The Moriarty Ski Cap: On The Slippery Slope Of Taste

Six years ago when I wrote about Moriarty ski caps, I was left with the feeling that the story was not completely over. I initially chalked it up to nostalgia: after all I was not the only one with a reverence for this genre of winter headgear.  Michael Maginn at SeniorSkining.com explored the connection he


orvis

Depends On Your Priorities: The $375 Orvis Highland Tweed Sportcoat

Unless money for you is no object, acquiring clothing probably involves some degree of compromise, it’s just a question of how much. The old adage about buying the best you can afford, and making long-term investments in your wardrobe, is sound advice. But even if you scrimp and save there’s still a limit on how


dexter large

A Tribute to the Collar Pin

Ivy Style continues honoring Black History Month with a selection of images of stylish African American gents sporting collar pins. This post was originally posted on February 20, 2011. * * * On my trip to Cambridge a few months ago, I picked up a silver collar pin at J. Press. I took such an


bbshoulder

Spalla Naturale: The New Brooks Brothers Natural Shoulder

I posted this on Ivy’s Facebook group a couple of hours ago, and, as with everything Brooks, it inspired enough fireworks to justify posting here. The company’s latest head-scratcher comes in the form of a mailer sent out today touting the new natural shoulder “inspired by soft Italian tailoring.” Heresy. Treason. WTF. I realize that



connecticut-university-of-logo

From The Op-Ed Pages: Fogey Rant At UCONN

Yesterday an amusing message landed in my inbox. A Danish student at the University of Connecticut had seen our piece on school dress codes and said he had recently written something similar. The student, Simon Jønler, had been asked to write a piece for the school paper about his impressions of the college from a


Yale Berkeley College 1957

YDN Columnist Agues For Dress Code, Fellow Students Say “Get A Life”

My how things do change. Yesterday we posted a photo of JFK as a college freshman in 1935, wearing jacket, tie and collar pin. Meanwhile in 2016, America’s best and brightest continue the practice of wearing hooded sweatshirts on national television in the “Jeopardy!” college tournament. Well one Yale student has finally taken to protest,


jpblue

Blue’s Clues

When last I spoke to J. Press, I was told that the whole brand was being brought under one design department, and that department would be based in Tokyo. So what might the new J. Press Blue collection look like when it finally makes it to US stores and e-commerce? These images from J. Press’


ys-main1

Press Unveils York Street Replacement J. Press Blue

Today J. Press sent out an email blast promoting its new spring collection. When I landed on the site, I saw that York Street was no longer there. Previously Press had operated two sites, one for York Street and one for the main collection. The site is now integrated, which makes a lot more sense.


wornOCBD

Cracked Shoes And Old Clothes

Yesterday on Ivy’s Facebook group much fun was had over a Daily News article about Jeb Bush, who was spotted with a piece of duct tape holding his shoes together. Nobody at the paper, or in the readership, know where that comes from, but for Tradsville it’s probably Bush’s most Old Money gesture in the


mrkt2

The Longwing And Short Of It: Menswear Market Week Finale

Here’s the remainder of what I saw this week. Apologies for the poor photo quality; everyone was complaining about the harsh lighting. Above, the super-premium longwing from Nettleton, price $795, made in Belgium. Below, tassel loafer. Note French cord stitch on vamp: Tweed slippers from Res Ipsa, founded by two lawyers in Atlanta: The sprawling


duck4

Duck Dynasty: Crittenden & DH At Menswear Market Week

Once again the most elaborate booth inside New York’s Javits Center, where menswear market week is held, belonged to Duck Head and the two other brands in its dynasty, the high-tech outwear brand Gyde and Crittenden. Kentucky-based Critt Rawlings is a menswear veteran with deep Ivy roots, having worked at Norman Hilton and Polo in


rh1

R. Hanauer’s Eyeglass Case + Pocket Square

I’m covering the menswear trade shows this week and one of more clever things to catch my eye comes from South Carolina’s own R. Hanauer, longtime Ivy Style sponsor. The father-and-son duo have just created an eyeglass case that sits perfectly in your breast pocket, doubling as a pocket square. It’s ideal for those who


bow-ties-and-trust-George-Will

George Will To Sell Bow Ties At Episcopal Church Auction

OK, that an Onion headline. In other words, a joke. It’s the punchline; now for the setup. It used to be that Brooks Brothers was popular shorthand for the establishment, showing  up in lyrics for “Harvard Blues” and the libretto for “Guys And Dolls.” Even in the year 2000 “the Brooks Brothers riot” was coined


acheson

Allen Edmonds’ Gorgeous New Acheson Tassel Loafer

Pictured above is a gorgeous new tassel loafer that just landed on Allen Edmonds’ website and hits stores next week. Dubbed the Acheson, I think it’s the tassel loafer of my dreams and here’s why. Tassels are my go-to shoe; I’ve several pairs and wear them 90% of the time. But even though the ones


bbnew4

Rolled Back And Forth: The Strange Trajectory Of The Brooks Brothers Oxford

Throughout the 20th century the Brooks Brothers oxford-cloth buttondown was a classic of American menswear, so iconic it was immortalized in a piece of literature, namely Mary McCarthy’s short story “The Man In The Brooks Brothers Shirt.” Like all of Brooks’ clothing throughout those decades, the shirt offered superb taste and good quality at a


bbold3

Better Late Than Never: Bruce Boyer On Brooks’ New-Old Oxford Buttondown

That Brooks Brothers has now seen fit to “re-introduce” its original buttondown shirt – complete with unfused collar, cuffs and placket – should be Big News. Unfortunately it’s all rather anti-climactic, isn’t it? But better late than never, you might say. I can only suppose that it finally got through the thickheads at Brooks that there


bbnew

Brooks Reintroduces Unlined, Rolled-Collar Oxford, Price $140

Yesterday a reader notified Ivy Style of a new buttondown oxford he spied on Brooks Brothers’ website. The description bears words that loyal but frustrated Brooks men have wanted to see for decades: “We’ve restored the signature rolled collar.” You read that right, Brooks has finally admitted that something went wrong with the collar on