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Changes On York Street

Fri 14 Mar 2014 - Filed under: 1990-present,Clothes — Zachary DeLuca
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York

Nothing gets past you guys. This time “DCG” alerted us to a report in MR Magazine from three weeks ago, in which J. Press announces that the Ovadia brothers have been relieved of their duties designing for spinoff collection York Street.

Ironically the line is not being killed but instead expanded internationally, beginning with Japan.

Ariel and Shimon Ovadia had served as creative directors of the capsule collection since its launch in 2012.

In other York Street news, this time the street in New Haven, J.Press this week announced the opening of its new location at 260 College Street, which is just one door down from the storied Owl Shop, one of the last great campus tobacconists.

Google pulls up this street view when the new address is entered:

jpnewstore

J. Press was forced to vacate its longtime home at 262 York Street building when the building was slated for demolition. — ZD & CC

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Money In The Bank: Men’s Wearhouse To Buy JAB For $1.8 Billion

Wed 12 Mar 2014 - Filed under: Clothes — Christian
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Yesterday a deal between Men’s Wearhouse and Jos. A Bank was reached. No doubt JAB sealed it with a “buy one company, get three free!” kind of deal.

There was a time when Jos. A Bank, which was often called a poor-man’s Brooks Brothers, sold American-made traditional staples such as dark herringbone suits, flannel blazers, and Harris Tweed jackets.

Assistant editor Zach DeLuca, who runs Newton Street Vintage, has had plenty of these specimens pass through his hands. Here are some standouts. — CC & ZD (Continue)

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Spring/Summer 2014: Prepare For White Jeans & Chinos

Fri 7 Mar 2014 - Filed under: Clothes — Christian
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white

Yesterday Brooks sent out an email blast of its spring catalog. Inside its pages I spied something that echoes our most recent post on GQ’s Nantucket photo shoot.

The common link is white jeans (and worn with sportcoats, no less). (Continue)

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Rhymes With Nantucket? GQ’s Preppy Spring Photo Shoot

Wed 5 Mar 2014 - Filed under: Clothes — Christian
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nantuck

What rhymes with Nantucket?

Photobucket, of course.

The March issue of GQ gets us ready for spring with a photo shoot shot on Nantucket entitled “The New New England Thing.” The photo above is the choicest, and here are highlights from the copy:

We’ve seen a lot of crazy, tweaked-out preppy style over the past few years. But now the all-American look is going back to where it all began: subtler colors, sensible combinations, and go-to patterns like madras plaid.

And:

You may have noticed that a lot of zealously stylin’ men out there have fetishized the Waspy look so hard that they’ve transformed it in to a character, even a caricature. It’s like, did you have to wear the raspberry pants, the polka-dot bow tie, and the skull slippers? If that sounds like you, it’s time to dial it back. That doesn’t mean forsaking tried-and-true New England garb… but it does mean wearing madras with something that’ll quiet it down. The goal here is to nod to New England, not look like a total WASP wannabe.

Sounds like GQ is declaring the end of GTH-obsessed neo-prep, which we mused on back in November with contributing writer Daniel Greenwood’s piece”The Uncertain Future of Neo-Prep.”

As for preppy’s past, yesterday A Suitable Wardrobe ran a lengthy essay on prep under the pity title “On Prep.” Check it out here. — CC

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Writers On The Storm: The Ivy Style Staff’s Favorite Overcoats

Mon 3 Mar 2014 - Filed under: Clothes — Christian
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Cornell Daily Sun 4 Nov 1955 Irv Lewis ad

As yet another storm hits the East Coast, the Ivy Style staff — Chens, Zach, Chief Sharp and King Richard The Forty-Fourth — share the favorite overcoats that have been getting such a workout this winter.

* * *

When it comes to fabrics, The Ivy League Look conjures up thoughts of tweed, flannel and oxford cloth for hearty basics, while for accents one might think of wool challis for neckties or Irish linen for pocket squares.

But any comprehensive list including such obscurities as “crash linen” would have to include velvet, which has played a small role in the history of the look. I don’t mean smoking jackets or crested slippers, but of the little strip of fabric that sits atop the collar of an overcoat.

Since moving to New York, I’ve weathered the winters in a navy duffel coat and camel polo coat. This year I added a third, a charcoal coat with three-button front, hacking and ticket pockets, and black velvet collar. Not quite a Chesterfield, nor Crombie or covert coat, but something similar, the coat is not too far from the one pictured above in this 1955 ad from Cornell Daily Sun. (Continue)

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Funny Valentine: Brooks, Chipp & Press Daphne Garters

Fri 14 Feb 2014 - Filed under: Clothes — Christian
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garters4

On this Valentine’s Day, we’ll honor the occasion with an example of the humor — in this case, mildly bawdy — that has always played a role in the Ivy League Look.

Case in point, the above vintage suspenders with matching sock garters from J. Press. They’re currently for sale on Etsy, where the seller claims they date from the ’30s and is asking $250 for them. (Continue)

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