Clothes

How The White-Shoe Law Firm Got Its Name

Now that summer is over and the punctilious will put away their white bucks until next Memorial Day, it’s time to honor the collegiate tradition of wearing scuffed-up white bucks in autumn, preferably with grey flannels. The fashion gave birth to the term “white shoe,” usually applied to a law or financial firm that hired


Holy Scrap! Fall Patchwork Items From Brooks

Over the past couple of years, the patchwork trend has been spilling over from summer cottons into fall woolens. This year Brooks Brothers is offering patched items across a wide range of categories.


Ralph Lauren’s Edwalton Double-Buckle Loafer

All the sartorial spread-collar/Drakes ties guys are mad for double monk-strap shoes. What’s the preppy version of a slip-on with excess hardware? How about Ralph Lauren’s new penny loafer with double buckles. Dubbed the Edwalton, it’s made in the US and will set you back $495. — CC


New Collabs, Narrow Ties For J. Press Fall 2011

Today J. Press unveiled fall items on its website, which include new collaborations with DS Dundee and Will, a leathergoods company from Oregon. Regarding Dundee, “They are making the decent Ivy-chic goods with the young fits,” a spokesman from Onward Kashiyama, J. Press’ parent company, told Ivy Style. J. Press has also amped up its


Crest Dressed: Heraldic Club Ties, Yea or Nay?

Heraldic club ties: So handsome to look at, so foolish to wear — or are they? Trad clothiers bring out crest-emblazoned ties every fall — including, this season, Lands’ End (above)— but who actually buys them? Do they make you a royal ass, shield you from the commonplace, or leave you a crestfallen subject of


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Brooks Brothers Fall 2011 Promo Videos

Last week Brooks Brothers released its Fall 2011 promotional videos on YouTube. The youth-oriented clips continue the “Back To Campus” and “Back To Town” themes. Above is the latter video, which, minus a two-second intro and outro, clocks in at 90 seconds. According to my calculations — and I may have blinked — there are


The $800 Lacoste x Brooks Brothers Collaboration

Yesterday an interesting auction ended on eBay: a polo shirt made by Lacoste for Brooks Brothers, putatively from the 1950s. The shirt’s four-inch tails and artifact status, however, were not enough to motivate anyone to place a bid at the opening price of $499, and at the close of the week-long auction the shirt went


Joint Venture: The Elbow Is The New Ankle

Several years ago the fashion forward began using the sockless ankle as a style focal point. Later the wrist — adorned with “man bracelets” — became another prime location for enhanced personal expression. But now, according to new fall items released on the Rugby website, the hot anatomical joint is the elbow. Four out of


Menswear Market Week Recap

Not much of a recap, as last week I only went to two of the smaller shows. Designer Forum, which I’ve covered here several times before, suffered a breakaway faction that met in suites at the Park Lane Hotel. Here are a few of the things I saw at both shows, and stay tuned for


Christopher Bastin on Building the Gant Archives

With fashion in a constant state of flux, it’s no wonder apparel brands are less than assiduous when it comes to keeping company histories. But the heritage movement has given brands the impetus to better chronicle and curate their personal histories. Case in point: Gant. The company, which was founded in New Haven in 1949


Sprezzatorture: The Untied Bow Tie

For decades clotheshorses have signalled their custom suits to the cognoscenti by leaving one button on their sleeves undone. This subtle practice eventually served as fodder for budding literary dandy Tom Wolfe in his 1965 essay “The Secret Vice.” But today, thanks to the Internet, the style conscious are ceaselessly bombarded with photos of rakish


‘Sucker Punch

We’re halfway to Labor Day, so if you’ve been neglecting your seersucker jacket, now’s the time to start wearing it all the time — even while riding the bike you stole from the new dork in school. After all, doesn’t this model from Rugby’s website remind you of someone? Click “continue” to see his pop-culture



La Vie En Rose: In Praise of Pink Shirts for Gilt MANual

Most trads feel more comfortable in pink than they do in black, the verboten hue. But we’re a small portion of the population. For many guys, a pink shirt is something that requires a great deal of deliberation. I recently gave my father a pink shirt; he’s in his sixties and had never worn one.


Back In Action: Brooks Brothers Revives Third Collar Button

This spring/summer season I noticed a plethora of back buttons on the collars of sport shirts at 346 Madison Avenue. It’s one of those small details from the Ivy heyday that it’s easy to laugh off as a trivial furbelow, until you see how immediately noticeable it is. Like everything in menswear, the third collar


Desert Boot Creator Nathan Clark Dead at 94

Earlier this week Nathan Clark, great-grandson of the founder of English shoe company Clark’s and inventor of the desert boot in 1947, died at the age of 94. Last week The Guardian ran this fine tribute. The casual ankle-high boots found a place in the Ivy canon, as the following photos from the Yale-Harvard football


Happy Fourth From Princeton

TweedyDon, the vintage clothing collector/dealer from the Ask Andy Trad Forum, recently discovered this jacket by Corbin for The English Shop of Princeton. I thought it perfectly apropos for the Fourth of July, when it would hold its own against even the most extravagant fireworks display. And although the jacket was made for a haberdashery



RL Madras Penny Loafers

They say that all fashion trends end in excess (Bruce Boyer maintains that during the buckle-back chinos craze circa 1956, buckles even appeared on the heels of white bucks, though I still find it hard to believe), there are increasing signs that the current preppy wave may be reaching the point of creative exhaustion. To


Josh Sims’ Icons of Men’s Style

Last week a new menswear coffee-table book was released, “Icons of Men’s Style” by Josh Sims, a UK-based fashion writer. The icons in question are not men but clothing items, and include such trad staples as khakis, buttondown shirts, tweed jackets and sack suits.


Le Crocodile: How Lacoste Became The Preppy Polo of Choice

By 1980 it was crystal clear: “The sport shirt of choice is Lacoste,” declared The Official Preppy Handbook. “Only the all-cotton model will do, the one with cap sleeves with the ribbed edging, narrow collar and two-button placket (never buttoned).” How did a French shirt with a crocodile for a logo become the go-to preppy polo?


Plaid Scientist: Dissecting Vintage Madras

We draw Madras Week to a close with this finale from Zachary DeLuca of Newton Street Vintage. One of the advantages to collecting vintage madras is that it provides the opportunity to compare the idiosyncrasies of this unique fabric. Just as no two bolts of madras are completely alike, no two madras jackets are alike.


Indian Summer: This Is Your Madras Being Made

When it comes to certain things, you just don’t want to know how they’re made. Madras, however, isn’t one of them, as its creation is pretty interesting. We’re kicking off the summer season with Madras Week, and our first post is an interview with Cape Madras cofounder Brian Sisselman, who provided these wonderful photos of


Spring Finale: Exploring Chic Ivy

They say you don’t get a proper spring in New York, and that certainly seemed the case this year. A stubborn winter was followed by an interlude of gray skies, wind and rain with just a handful of sunny mild days, and now we’re projecting 91 for Memorial Day. So while it’s madras and seersucker


In Praise of Rogue Ivy

“In Praise of Bankara Ivy,” announces the Japanese magazine Free & Easy on the cover of its May issue. What in the world is bankara Ivy? We asked our man in Tokyo, W. David Marx, who said: Bankara is a word that combines two other words: “ban” is barbarian and “kara” is “collar,” from “haikara”


Sand Storm: In Praise of Tan Levi’s

If white denim is too extreme for you, consider a pair of tan jeans — Levi’s calls the color “sand.” I picked up a pair of 501s a few weeks ago and they instantly became my favorite springtime pant. The jeans’ slimmer fit through the hips and thighs brings a vaguely “Take Ivy” vibe without