I know, fall is here and you’re eagerly breaking out the woolens. No one could be happier than me, as I get to spend my first autumn in New York.
But apparel brands are always working well in advance, so I need you to temporarily shift your brain back into warm-weather mode and have a look at Brooks Brothers‘ offerings for next spring, as recently previewed in the showroom above the Madison Avenue flagship store.
Brooks will continue its “collegiate” collection, drawing on a Spring Break theme:
All fashion ends in excess. Bruce Boyer says that during the buckle-back khakis trend circa 1956, he remembers buckles being added to everything — including the heels of white bucks. Likewise, the Brooks preview included signs that the Go-To-Hell wing of the PITA revival may be entering its decadent phase, with design exhaustion the next inevitable step. (Then the pendulum will swing back to simplicity and understatement.) Patch-madras shirts (above, left) featured tiki embroideries, while emblematic trousers (below, right) now feature four separate panels of different critters:
Despite these touches of baroque extravagance, there were signs of subtle refinement. This Fitzgerald jacket has a softer shoulder, said a Brooks spokesperson. Also, in a styling gesture reminiscent of Brooks circa 1980, a wildly patterned jacket is paired with a plain oxford button-down and knit tie. Partial lining on sportcoats will also make a return next spring:
The Golden Fleece logo has been slightly updated, and now comes in contrast colors — RL style — on shirts and sweaters. There’s also a whole slew of new colors for polo shirts:
Indeed, there was certainly no fear of color:
There was also a strong sailing theme. Nautical, but nice:
We’ll end on a subdued note, with this handsome Black Fleece briefcase. — CC